Holster Dye

[Guy W]

Hello, I've been working on my 2nd holster project and I've got a few questions about dying.

I picked up this dye from Tandy, Eco-Flo All-In-One Stain & Finish Midnight Black, and put some on a leather scrap to test it. I really like it in some regards. It's easy to apply and gives a nice even coat. But, after letting the test piece dry for a few hours I got it damp and rubbed it with my finger to see if it would bleed off and it did. I live in florida and I'm worried about this dye coming off all over my cloths/body when it's hot and humid out and I'm sweating.

Did I just not give the dye enough time before testing to see if it would bleed off when damp or is this going to be a long term issue? Is there a solution?

My second question is about dyeing after stitching. For the project I'm working on, I'm dyeing the holster Black and using a white waxed thread for a nice contrast. I'd really like to glue and stitch the holster up first, then wet mold it, then dye it. On my test piece I put a dozen or so saddle stitches in the leather with my white thread and then put the coat of the Eco-Flo dye on to see if it my waxed thread would resist it.

It did not. The thread turned black. Any advice here?

I really would like to stitch up the piece before I wet mold it. My first holster I just wet molded after gluing and then dyed and stitched the piece and I think it would be much easier to stitch it up while the front/back of the holster are still flat and unmolded, and I think molding it would be easier when it's stitched up tight.

Thanks everyone.

Edited August 14, 2014 by Guy W

[JLSleather]

Form, stitch, dye.

Stitch, form, dye.

Dye, stitch, form.

I've seen some good lookin holsters made with each of the 'processes' there, and prolly some others.

White thread in black holster ... yer prolly gonna hafta dye that FIRST (or, you could buy leather already black).

Eco-flo stuff is not good for --- well, actually, really not good for anything.

[camano ridge]

First of all I would throw out the Eco FLo all in one. I use the Tandy Eco FLO Proffessional Water stain it gives a good black and you buff lightly to get off excess pigment and will not get any rub off after that. if you are using white thread on a blakc holster dye first. Use a little bit longer piece of thread the first 12 inches or sew will pick up any dye as it passes through the hole, the rest of the thread should be clean for your stitches as you stitch and get down to the part of the thread that is now dingy looking cut it off get new thread and continue stitching.

[Guy W]

I figured I wouldn't be able to find a way around stitching it up before dying it if I was going with black dye and a white thread. But thanks for the advice.

With the Eco Flo Pro water stain, do you use a satin sheen or something to finish it? I used the fiebing's oil dye on my first holster project, and it worked really good but the smell was so strong it made me sick to my stomach and gave me a headache, so I'd prefer to not use that. I thought this Eco Flo would be worth trying as an alternative. I have no problems with the smell, but I'm worried about it running/rubbing off.

Thanks

Edited August 14, 2014 by Guy W

[camano ridge]

I don't get any rub off with the Eco Flo Pro ffessional water stain. You can finish it in many ways. SOme people use resolene cut 50/50 with water, you can also use Mop n Glo floor wax cut 50/50 with water. I do a lot of western stuff and prefer to use Montana Pithc blend a mix of bees wax mink oil and pitch, I also use Skidmores leather cream, it also is a mix of beeswax and oils.

[Dwight]

IF, . . . and again IF, . . . you buff that holster enough after you have dyed it and let it dry, . . . thoroughly, . . . completely, . . . like DRY, DRY, . . . you should then have a very bare minimum rub off.

BUT, . . . you still want to seal it and finish it. SO, . . . cut, . . . glue, . . . wet form, . . . trim, . . . burnish, . . . dye, . . . DRY !!, . . . buff, . . . buff, . . . buff some more.

Put a finish coat of 50/50 resolene and water on the holster, . . . let it DRY !!, . . . 24 hour minimum, . . . don't cheat !!!

Then, . . . stitch it with your purdy white thread, . . . 346 or even 400 if you can get it, . . . after you get done with the stitching, . . . take a small paint brush and add a coat of resolene and water to the stitches, . . . blend it back onto the holster and wrap it around the edges.

Makes a purdy, purdy, purdy holster.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Red Cent]

vinagroon

[BanjoMan]

Throw the Eco-Flo away and stick with Fiebings. Period. When I first started out I purchased a leather kit from Tandy's that included various types of Eco-Flo dye, which is a water based product. I agree, the application was painless, but the final appearance is of very low quality in my opinion compared to Fiebing's alcohol based dyes. I also agree that the smell of Fiebings during use is quite strong, but if you make sure that you are in a well ventilated area and do not hover right above the jar it is a small price to pay for the look and quality that you desire. As far as when to dye is concerned, here is my process: dye, let dry, stitch, wet mold, let dry, burnish edges, neatsfoot oil, let dry, finish (resolene, tan-kote, bag-coat, etc.), let dry, wax (neutral shoe polish). This process is a result of asking questions, research, and trial and error. I also thought at first that it made sense to mold before dying, partially because I was concerned that I would compromise my dye during the wet molding process. I soon found out that I was wrong. If you use a good quality alcohol/oil based dye (such as Fiebings) that penerates well into your leather, it will hold up fine during the wet molding process. I have found that wet molding after dying actually helps me in getting the dyed appearance that I prefer to achieve, which is a less glossy, subtle sheen. Furthermore, the final application of whatever finish you choose to use will also give you another opportunity to create the look that you are going for. The best advice I can give you is to experiment with differetnt products to see what works best for you, because what looks "good" is strictly a matter of opinion and personal preference. However, I strongly urge you to get away from the Eco-Flo line. As far as I'm concerned, you could potentially ruin an item that you have a lot of time invested into simply by using an inferior dye. Hope this helps!

[Guy W]

Thanks for all the advice. I think I'll order some better dye and not risk it with this stuff I've got.

In other news I also tried the EcoWeld Water Based Contact Adhesive on this project, because I used Barges the first time I made a holster and again the fumes bothered me. I'm pretty happy with this EcoWeld. It doesn't bind quite as good as the Barges did but it's more than acceptable and I have no issues with the strong fumes bothering me.

[dickf]

Fiebings dye is crap. Get some Angelus or Lincoln dye. You won't have to buff the excess more than a minute and it take no effort. No bleed, no rub off.

[malabar]

Try Angelus Leather finish No. 650. Much better than any dye, no bleeding, no need for a topcoat.

tk