First Holster, Mag Holder And Gun Belt - Iwb

[tossik]

I have been playing with basic project for last couple of months, and my friend asked me to make him a IWB holster for his SIG. After lots of reading and research I sketched up a pattern that I liked based on other projects around, and gave it a shot. Made a mag holder as well and a double layer belt (haven't done stitching yet). Loops are held by DOT one directional snaps. Works great. Entire project was hand cut and stitched. Oiled, dyed, waxed and buffed.

I am happy how it turned out. fits the gun real well.

What do you guys think? I am sure there are plenty improvements I can do on the next one, but I was learning as I went on Let me know if you have suggestions or comments. I have more pics of the build if you guys are interested. I have documented every step haha.

[Dwight]

Several things come to mind, . . . but first, . . . as a beginner, . . . you are doing pretty good.

1. For IWB holsters, . . . it is FAR more comfortable for the wearer if the mag holder and holster have a flat back touching the wearer. Yours both have lumps of the mag and the handgun digging into the wearer.

2. Your stitch lines are in the wrong places around the weapon. Pull both in much closer, . . . and follow the outline. The rear stitches behind the trigger guard really won't help hold the weapon in place. You will get away with this one because it is an IWB, . . . but if this was worn as a pancake, . . . outside the belt, . . . the holster would open up in short order and become more of a bag on his belt than a form fitting holster.

3. On both of the reinforcement pieces, . . . lose the sharp points. I know it looks cool, . . . but leather and sharp points will always be at odds with each other. The point gets soft and raggedy in short order, . . . begins to look like a piece of a paint brush hanging off the corner.

4. On the mag holder, . . . there is a valley between the loop and the mag, . . . cut your leather in an upswept arc, . . . never a valley. That becomes a weak point in the item.

5. I also never put the nuts on the back side of the holster. People who sweat profusely (I am one that does) will very quickly find great big ugly rust spots on their inside garments, . . . rust spots that in many cases will not wash out. Two or three really nice shirts, . . . ruined by 50 cents worth of cheap metal, . . . can ruin the whole experience, . . . and give your holster business a bad name really quick.

But, . . . your first project is a whole lot better than my first one, . . . keep trying, . . . keep learning.

May God bless,

Dwight

[tossik]

Dwight, Thanks for the supporting criticism!

1. the definition in the back is about 1/4" is that still bad? Holster felt pretty comfortable (I have nothing to compare it to). the mag holder did feel a little funny, and since its a full size gun, it felt out of place inside the pants. How do you mold that only one side gets molded? When I shove the gun in, both sides bulge out automatically.

2. What do you mean wrong places? can you elaborate? I followed other samples I found online and made stitching as close to other images as possible. I do think I could have made stitches 1/8 -3/16 closer to the gun. I was afraid that the gun would not fit the holster when wet molding. I drew up the templates and so had no idea what was right or wrong.

3. Yes I agree on this, but I already made it and wasnt gonna change it at the end.

4. I dont undersand this.. can you elaborate please?

5. I agree, I already glued my first side before remembering to put the nut in between the leather pieces. I learned as I went

Thanks again for your comments!

[Dan28]

I'm curious about #4 as well, and want to learn so I can apply that to any I do.

[Dwight]

I don't know how to explain how it does it, . . . experience taught me it does do it.

#4 created a sharp valley, . . . which I have found become problem areas. All I was suggesting is that you get away from doing that.

I tried to modify part of the picture so it explains it better, . . . I would have followed the track around the yellow insert.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Dwight]

Dwight, Thanks for the supporting criticism!

1. the definition in the back is about 1/4" is that still bad? Holster felt pretty comfortable (I have nothing to compare it to). the mag holder did feel a little funny, and since its a full size gun, it felt out of place inside the pants. How do you mold that only one side gets molded? When I shove the gun in, both sides bulge out automatically.

2. What do you mean wrong places? can you elaborate? I followed other samples I found online and made stitching as close to other images as possible. I do think I could have made stitches 1/8 -3/16 closer to the gun. I was afraid that the gun would not fit the holster when wet molding. I drew up the templates and so had no idea what was right or wrong.

3. Yes I agree on this, but I already made it and wasnt gonna change it at the end.

4. I dont undersand this.. can you elaborate please?

5. I agree, I already glued my first side before remembering to put the nut in between the leather pieces. I learned as I went

Thanks again for your comments!

1. I don't know if you carry or not, . . . I do, . . . have for years, . . . anything but a FLAT backed holster becomes a rubbing point for me and for others I know of. I carry a full size all steel 1911, . . . and used to carry a .45 cal XD double stack, . . . IWB, . . . never a problem with the flat back, . . . all others beget sore spots.

You sew the front down, . . . wet the front leather, . . . lay the gun down on it, . . . mold the gun, . . . let it dry, . . . sew the back side.

2. See the enclosed picture for the stitching. If the weapon is not hard to fit into an already sewn holster, . . . it is too loose to begin with is a fairly good rule. Once you branch out to pancakes, . . . especially without thumb breaks or suicide straps, . . . they have to be close fitting, . . . well molded, . . . and sewing close is pretty much THE key to making that happen. Loose stitches or excess leather between gun and stitches will allow it to open up, . . . and again become a bag instead of a holster.

4. See previous post

Anyway, . . . keep at it, . . . you're on the right track.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited August 20, 2014 by Dwight

[Modad2010]

Tossik, don't worry too much about the flat-backed issue. The holster you built seems to be patterned after the well known and much copied Milt Sparks Versa-Max II. Most folks who have owned and carried with the VM II consider it to be the most comfortable IWB they've ever used - myself included - and it is not a flat-backed holster. I like your use of some contrast with the reinforcement piece and with the stitching color there. Your stitching looks nice and even and clean, but as Dwight stated should follow the lines of the weapon more closely. I'm looking forward to some pics of the belt after it's stitched (never could bring myself to do a double thickness belt until after I had a machine). Dwight gave some great advice on many points and it should help you. All in all a very good looking first effort!

[billybopp]

What Dwight was talking about in point 4 is a good principal to know all around in leather work and other design as well.

When you have a "valley" in a piece of relatively thin material, any pulling apart of the two "legs" will put ALL of the stress right at the very point of the "V". If that is re-designed as a "U" that same stress will be spread over a much wider area so that it is less likely to tear. It's exactly the same principal that is in action when you make credit card slits in a wallet and place a round punch at the ends. The very same principal is used in sheet metal work and any number of other disciplines.

Hope that helps

Bill

[tossik]

Thank you Modad2010 for the encouraging words I have yet to stitch the belt. Its gonna be a lot of work, and I am debating whether or not get a machine to stitch. Dont have the money right now. I gave the holster to my friend and he said its one of the best ones he has felt on him before. That made me feel really good, as it was my first holster. He said my angle was perfect for him to draw from (phew). So overall I am pleased. I can only improve from here

billybopp - That makes complete sence now. I will try to modify that part next time.

Thanks all for advice!

[camano ridge]

Tossik, all of my belts are hand sewn and I have made many. I havea awl blade chucked in an unplugged drill press, i lay out my stitch line with a stitching groover and mark my stitches with an overstitch wheel then punch all of the stitch holes with hte drill press. When done find a comfortable chair and start stitching. You don't have to stitch 500 holes in one sitting, however once you get pas tthe half way point you will be surprised at your desire to keep going just to get it done. I have never used a machine on my belts and some of them I even do the gunfighter stitch on ( decorative stitching).

[leatherquestions]

Tossik, let me say Wonderful Work For A First Try! I wish my first were that good. All points I would cover have been addressed. Don't fret over hand stitching belts, if you can do a holster you can do a belt. I handstitch all of mine. Great work. Remember, every piece of work is a learning experience, I don't care how long you've been working with leather. Sometimes the Gremlins bite and sometimes they don't. Good job.

Tip

[tossik]

Thanks camano ridge and Tip for the support! I will definitely apply all criticism in my next project. Im learning as I go, and having real fun with it! I only have a few belts and other small projects behind me, so this was my first large project. Before stitching a belt I need to make a pony, because right now its just my knees and that hurts after a while