Red Cent Report post Posted September 2, 2014 This works with my C4. Same machine. "Ok, here is something I just looked at I haven't fully tried it, but it should work, no removal of hooks is required: Remove the dustcap from the end of the arm, exposing the bobbin. Pull the thread out so that it hangs directly off the bobbin Pull the upper thread up and out of the way. Rotate the wheel so the needle buries to it's deepest point into the machine. In this position, the bobbin mouth should be facing about 7 o'clock, nearly straight down. Pull the bobbin thread out a foot at the 7 o'clock angle so that it is exiting the bobbin directly, and hang it over a smooth rod like a screw driver so that the thread can dangle towards the floor but still exits the bobbin in a straight line. Secure 8 oz to the end of the string. With the screw driver supporting the thread again, tug gently on the weight to see if it will start for the floor. If the weight pulled the thread out easily before you even tugged on it, then you need more bobbin tension, if it hangs there and won't drop even if more weight is added, then your have too much (which I would expect from your description of the knots on the bottom of your work). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csmartin73 Report post Posted September 6, 2014 Okk dream team, I cant read the needle, I am going to assume it is a 23, since that is what I also received a 10 pack of, I am using 207 thread and I have tried to rotate the thread tension in two places but not really getting any difference in the backside. One of the adjustments is near the top left back of the machine and the other I adjusted in pretty close top the needle itself on the side, I rotated both of these about a half turn, as the manual says small adjustments, is this not enough to make a difference? I did not want to turn these things too much and really be in trouble. Any ideas, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtclod Report post Posted September 6, 2014 (edited) Personally i use a 160 / 23 needle for 69 and 138 thread and a 200 needle not sure what the size is in the two number sizes for 207 and 277 thread. Just went and looked on Bobs website a 200 is a size 25 needle. Edited September 6, 2014 by dirtclod Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted September 6, 2014 Personally i use a 160 / 23 needle for 69 and 138 thread and a 200 needle not sure what the size is in the two number sizes for 207 and 277 thread. Just went and looked on Bobs website a 200 is a size 25 needle. This reply applies to CB3200, 3500, 4500 and similar 441 clone machines. I use a #19 or #20 needle with #92 (T90) thread, which is the smallest size I use on my CB4500, and then only on very rare occasions. Such thin thread requires a lot of reconfiguring of the entire tension path. I find that #138 thread sews best into leather with a #23 leather point needle, the smallest leather point size commonly available in system 794. I prefer a #24 for #207 thread and always use a #25 needle for 277 thread. Finally, I use a #26 needle on those few occasions when I need to use #346 thread. I have found that using any needle under #22 increases the chance that it will be deflected by the layers of leather, into the throat plate, or side of the feed dog, and bend or break. For this reason, I sew thin projects on either a patcher, or a walking foot machine, both of which use system 135x16 leather point needles. These needles are much stronger due to their shorter shaft, relative to the system 794. In fact, I stopped using system 190 in both walking foot machines due to excessive deflection and breaking of #18 and #19 needles. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csmartin73 Report post Posted September 7, 2014 If you look at the pictures I posted earlier, The top of the project has what I would call a normal thread look, The bottom side seems to have a tight look to it, the holes seem to be streched and the thread appears to be being pulled tighter into the leather. This is only a problem when the leather gets thicker. I am using 4 to 5 oz lined, on the edge where it gets 4 layers thick I get this issue. I am sure it is a adjustment but not sure what to adjust as the manual states counter clockwise etc but I am not sure if I should rotate the AUX tension, Thread tension, or Bobbin tension. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Brosowski Report post Posted September 8, 2014 I am never comfortable when people say one machine is all you need. Every serious leather worker has at least three machines but 5 or six is better........ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted September 8, 2014 If you look at the pictures I posted earlier, The top of the project has what I would call a normal thread look, The bottom side seems to have a tight look to it, the holes seem to be streched and the thread appears to be being pulled tighter into the leather. This is only a problem when the leather gets thicker. I am using 4 to 5 oz lined, on the edge where it gets 4 layers thick I get this issue. I am sure it is a adjustment but not sure what to adjust as the manual states counter clockwise etc but I am not sure if I should rotate the AUX tension, Thread tension, or Bobbin tension. For one thing, the back side stitches always look different than the top (on sewing machines). But, it seems to my eye that the bobbin tension could stand to be backed off somewhat. This will allow the bottom thread to lay looser across the holes. If you have less bobbin tension, you'll probably have to also back off the top tension, to balance the knots. I use my machine with relaxed top and bottom tensions, but adjust them to suit the work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Brosowski Report post Posted September 10, 2014 Wiz is the man. When setting machines up for customers I tend to start with relatively light tensions and let the customer tighten them up to suit. Apart from getting the threads to "knot" in the center of the work there are variations in appearance that customers want to achieve depending on the work they are doing. Tensions are both simpler and more complicated than what is normally discussed For one thing, the back side stitches always look different than the top (on sewing machines). But, it seems to my eye that the bobbin tension could stand to be backed off somewhat. This will allow the bottom thread to lay looser across the holes. If you have less bobbin tension, you'll probably have to also back off the top tension, to balance the knots. I use my machine with relaxed top and bottom tensions, but adjust them to suit the work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted September 10, 2014 If you don't like the tight look,then yes,you need to loosen the top tension even the aux one too until you get the look you want. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites