How To Find Gusset Length On Bag.

[TinkerTailor]

I draw the pattern and then use a flexible staedler  drawing curve. Lay it on the pattern following the corner curve on the stitch line and mark the ends. The length of the curve straightened is the distance between marks on the pattern. Leather thickness matters a lot less than the offset due to stitch allowance with regards to gusset length due to the stitch line being shorter than outside of pattern. Measuring the stitch line not the cut line eliminates this. 

[RascalLeather]

On 12/10/2016 at 6:07 PM, paramedic192 said:

This was very helpful. I sew my pockets onto the gusset before I sew the sides and this calculation helped me get an initial length that was nearly perfect. I used the calculation, cut the piece, and then fit it to assure all was right.  Fit perfect. The method of cutting the gusset long and cutting off the extra after sewing works fine if you aren't attaching something like a pocket to each side that need to be in the same place on each side. 

 

Thanks,

 

Kyle

surely if you line up the centre marks you can still place your pockets and then still cut the ends shorter if needed?

 

[caressofsteel]

Similar to TinkerTailor, I do not make the edge length equal, make the stitch lengths equal.  One way to do this is count the stitch holes on the front and then make an equal number of holes on the gusset.

I use CAD software that calculates the stitch length for me but you can do this on a calculator, or measure the stitch length off a pattern.

[toxo]

If hand stitching, counting the holes on each piece will work perfectly. If machining however, there is the possibility of stretching the gusset depending on the severity of the curve. If doing a repeat pattern where the length of the gusset is already known, stretching is still possible and I would advise sewing from each end so any stretch will be worked out in the middle.

[DieselTech]

I've never made a gusset yet, but all the professionals on youtube I noticed cuts their gusset 1" shorter than the body it's being sewn to. 

At some point I'm going to try it. 

[toxo]

18 minutes ago, DieselTech said:

I've never made a gusset yet, but all the professionals on youtube I noticed cuts their gusset 1" shorter than the body it's being sewn to. 

At some point I'm going to try it. 

You can't generalise like that about gussets. Sometimes a "gusset" will go down either side of a bag, sometimes it will go down one side, across the bottom and up the other side or down the front across the bottom and up the other side depending on what you're calling the front. If there are curves involved the thickness of the leather will be a factor.

I'd be very wary about cutting a gusset short. If in doubt leave it long and cut afterward. I think the safest way is to use basting tape all around the perimeter, stick your gusset and cut to length but if I'm machine sewing I'll still start at each end toward the middle.

[SUP]

2 hours ago, toxo said:

f hand stitching, counting the holes on each piece will work perfectly.

Yes, that works for laced bags as well. I am working on reproducing a 1970s Tandy pattern and that is how I made the gusset and it fits well.

[Mablung]

58 minutes ago, DieselTech said:

I've never made a gusset yet, but all the professionals on youtube I noticed cuts their gusset 1" shorter than the body it's being sewn to. 

At some point I'm going to try it. 

@toxo is right about that. Stitch length, not edge length, is the more important measure (although the couple gusseted bags I have made were close enough on both measurements that I was able to cut my gussets the same edge length and then do only minimal trimming). I’ll add that the details of the construction make a difference as well. Whether the gusset is curved or straight, darted or flat, molded outward as is done with veg tan bags sometimes, or a soft oil tan makes a big difference. So does whether the bag will be turned out after construction (like I had to contend with when making a bottom gusset tote bag for my mom). 

Lots of measurements and geometry are one’s best friends here.

[DieselTech]

36 minutes ago, toxo said:

You can't generalise like that about gussets. Sometimes a "gusset" will go down either side of a bag, sometimes it will go down one side, across the bottom and up the other side or down the front across the bottom and up the other side depending on what you're calling the front. If there are curves involved the thickness of the leather will be a factor.

I'd be very wary about cutting a gusset short. If in doubt leave it long and cut afterward. I think the safest way is to use basting tape all around the perimeter, stick your gusset and cut to length but if I'm machine sewing I'll still start at each end toward the middle.

Thanks for the tips & tricks mentioned. No a few youtubers that produce some nice products. They just mentioned that if doing a backpack or bag with a center/U gusset & using 6-7oz leather that cutting them a inch shorter than the body its sewn to usually works out perfect everytime. 

This is the only reason I mentioned it. I was going to try & design a small handbag or something & try it for myself to see how it comes out. 

[Mablung]

1 hour ago, DieselTech said:

Thanks for the tips & tricks mentioned. No a few youtubers that produce some nice products. They just mentioned that if doing a backpack or bag with a center/U gusset & using 6-7oz leather that cutting them a inch shorter than the body its sewn to usually works out perfect everytime. 

This is the only reason I mentioned it. I was going to try & design a small handbag or something & try it for myself to see how it comes out. 

Not a bad rule of thumb, as long as it’s used as such and not as a set rule. But it sounds like you’ve got that straight in your own head.