Better Way To Do A Belt Loop?

[oscar621]

Got asked to make a basic holster to slip on a belt for walking in the woods. I did this (which I think is ok) but then got to thinking there might be a better way to do the belt loop on the back. Any ideas or suggestions welcome - thanks.

[chiefjason]

There might be other ways, but for basic that's the way to go. I've used it before. If you want something more stable but not much larger look at the avenger style holsters. They use a tunnel loop on the back and a belt slot in the ear at the trigger. You get 2 attachments without much more bulk in the holster.

[JLSleather]

I think that's purdy standard for revolvers with substantial barrel length. Lower the loop, ya got a rig ridin too high. What you have there keeps the grip about belt height. You could angle it a bit, dependin' on customer comfort, but otherwise you got it.

[Red Cent]

That belt loop will allow the handgun to set out from the body. I sometimes sew on a "patch" belt loop to orient the holster and it will bring the gun in close to the body. I double sew the top of the patch and mold the patch to the size of belt used.

[snubbyfan]

Depends on what it's for. For a field holster a stitched belt loop's fine. It can be contoured and stitched.

On concealment holsters I prefer a pancake style.

[malabar]

The advantage of using a "patch" is that it will pull the holster tighter to the body, gives you control over the height of the holster's ride, and enables you to reinforce the attachment point.

[grumpyold]

I've found that if the grip of the gun lines up with the top of the belt loop, or slightly below, it allows the holster to cant a little away from your body. This gives some room to get a full grip on the gun without your body or belt loop interfering. I make my holsters from 9 Oz plus leather so their stiff enough to keep their shape without being reinforced..All my holster are for field carry and I've tried all kinds of heights and find this works best for me. I want quick access to the firearm, but also don't want it hooking on every tree I walk pass, and this setup works for me and everyone I've made holster for..

[Lobo]

There are several ways to make belt attachment points (belt loops). No one design is better than another, but each is better for some applications than others. It helps to keep in mind the purposes served and how each holster design is intended to function.

Basic purposes include supporting the weight and keeping the holster stabilized in position.

In addition to the basics, different belt attachment points can be used to spread the weight of the holstered handgun over a larger area of the belt for improved comfort, to pull the holstered handgun snugly into the body for improved concealment, or to offset the handgun away from the body for improved accessibility.

Regardless of what I am trying to accomplish with a holster design I always form the belt loops for a close fit to the belt so that the holster has less tendency to move around on the belt and is kept in a constant position and angle on the belt. I do this during the wet-forming operation by forcing a wooden mandrel through the belt loops to pre-form to the specific width and thickness of the intended belt. I make these mandrels up from strips of wood in 1.25", 1.5", 1.75", 2.0", and 2.25" widths, usually 1/4" in thickness (typical finished thickness of heavy-duty gun belts).

Attached photos show examples of some of the more common belt attachments for traditional belt holsters, full flap field holsters, my Enhanced Avenger design and Enhanced Pancake design (tunnel-style loops), and a combat competition design.

Edited January 22, 2015 by Lobo