Would Appreciate Your Advise On Restoring This Singer 45K25

[Constabulary]

Constabulary - Those old decals are generally cellulose based film, and get very brittle with age. Vintage model folks use some solutions to restore the old decals to apply them to new old stock models.

I have not noticed your post earlier - sorry!

What is kind of solution is it? Do you have more information?

[Colt W Knight]

I have not noticed your post earlier - sorry!

What is kind of solution is it? Do you have more information?

Here is product specifically designed to restore old decals that have set in the open air or sunlight. You brush it on, and let it sit for about 20 minutes.

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-12&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=6

Literature from Microscale - Everyone should have Micro Liquid Decal Film who models and uses decals. Especially if you have been at it for some time. The typical decal scrap box is not the best place to store decals. Exposed to air, sunlight, and moisture, great swings of temperature or general abuse, and decals will go bad. Or maybe you just always had trouble putting on thin stripes. Micro Liquid Decal Film solves all of those problems and makes a decal which for whatever reason is bad, work again just like new almost immediately. Of course if you have already put it in water it is too late. So if you have some old decals you really have to use, coat them with Micro Liquid Decal Film to be sure. Or if there is any indication that you might have a problem, don't take a chance, you can solve the problem on the spot. Simply take a small brush and coat the image on the decal you want to use. Allow to dry for 20 minutes. Apply the decal as usual. It's that simple.

*I do not know this for a fact, but the vintage guitar folks all swear that microscale decal setting solution is just watered down white vinegar. I have applied a lot of waterslide decals, and I use vinegar on them all after application and it really feathers the edges in well. If you have enough decals or some edges you can cut off, you can always test it out.

Here is a link for the pair of solutions

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/221200208781?lpid=82

Edited November 24, 2014 by Colt W Knight

[Constabulary]

I see! Problem is that my original Singer decals have the transfer paper on the top side so I think the setting solution could be an option.

I also googled a bit and found an interesting post ins modeler forum here is an extract:

Finally sometimes on really old decals the adhesive is so old that it will not stick to the surface. In this instance, you need to replace the adhesive. This is done by making a diluted solution of white glue and water (75% glue 25% water) brush this on just before and sometimes after application of the decal. After the decal has set a bit you can then apply any and all to the setting solution to allow the decal to snuggle down. It will look milky at first, but it will dry clear.

I also got the hint that I should try acrylic / water based hardwood floor finish.

I´ll order the solution set after I have tried the 2 above options as I have both available.

Maybe I´ll ruin the decals but I just have paid few bucks for them. But I´ll keep 2 or 3 no matter what happens as this is something you´ll probably will never find again. But if it work I´ll repaint my machines (sooner or later) an put the original decals on them.

[Colt W Knight]

I have used white glue and water before, but I only ever put a few drops of white glue in a bowl of warm water. Then I placed the decal in the solution for 20 seconds of so, then moved it onto the substrate.

[Evo160K]

While doing some initial cleaning in the shuttle area, I noticed something rough and brown, like dried molasses, further in. It appeared to be a hard, dried "glue like" material between the 91430 shuttle race ring (not the race, the ring) and the cast iron body of the machine.

Is that actually a glue that's supposed to be there, or is it dried oil or some other substance that's not supposed to be there? Thanks in advance.

Edited December 3, 2014 by Evo160K

[Constabulary]

In general they did not use glue - this must be hardened oil or grease. I had a lot of that stuff on my 133K3 which I either scratches off with a flat screw driver or the cleaning solution washed it away after a few attempts. But sometimes I still find little spots but thats like gray hair - you think you don`t have them but suddenly it´s there.

[jimi]

it should be as clean as a whistle and with some clean oil.

[Evo160K]

Thank you Constabulary, Jimi.

It was somewhat of a shock to see that ring of "glue" in there! Here's a phenomenally well engineered and constructed piece of fine machinery from the 1940's with beautifully machined fasteners, and a piece is held with "glue?" I couldn't accept it. Thanks for setting my anxiety to rest.

Jimi, what type and size of thread is in the bobbin in your picture above?

Thanks again to you both.

[Colt W Knight]

Sounds like old grease from the description.

[Evo160K]

Thanks Colt.

I was hoping that was the case. Constabulary agrees with you.