How Is This Done? Magic?

[zaynexpetty]

Can someone explain to me how this is done? I was wanting to do card slots like this for a wallet that I am making, but couldn't figure out, so I went on etsy to see if it was even possible and found a good example, but still can't figure it out.

How do the cards in the higher slots not fall to the bottom? I am confused.

[MonicaJacobson]

I suspect ... that there is actually nothing to keep the cards from falling. It looks like they assume since there are lots of slots you'll be able to recover any cards you lose. I think you're just supposed to be careful. I could be wrong, but that looks exactly like only one layer on that right side.

[King's X]

I believe in 2 or 3 issues back in the Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal there was a detailed tutorial on how to make this type of card slot. I want to say it was Chan Geer the author. A subscription is well worth the cost. I am sure you can always call them and buy that particular edition. Good luck

[zaynexpetty]

I believe in 2 or 3 issues back in the Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal there was a detailed tutorial on how to make this type of card slot. I want to say it was Chan Geer the author. A subscription is well worth the cost. I am sure you can always call them and buy that particular edition. Good luck

Hmm... Interesting. Maybe I will give them a call if I can't find a solution. Thanks!

I suspect ... that there is actually nothing to keep the cards from falling. It looks like they assume since there are lots of slots you'll be able to recover any cards you lose. I think you're just supposed to be careful. I could be wrong, but that looks exactly like only one layer on that right side.

That was my first reaction. I was thinking that maybe there are pockets made out of some type of cloth or something to hold them in place, but that doesn't even really make sense either.

[RavenAus]

I've made one like that. Glue wide ribbon folds behind the card slots to stop them falling through.

[Northmount]

RavenAus is right. There are several posts about this type of card slot. Try a search for "wallet card slot" (no quotes) and I think you will be able to find them.

Tom

[MonicaJacobson]

LOL, and there I thought they were cheaping out. Oh, the injustice.

[RavenAus]

The one thing I didn't like about this type was there's no backup to the glue, so you'd better be damn sure your bonds are good. I worry that over time the action of putting the cards in will cause the ribbon strip to come loose and you will end up losing the cards down the bottom

[Chief31794]

The one thing I didn't like about this type was there's no backup to the glue, so you'd better be damn sure your bonds are good. I worry that over time the action of putting the cards in will cause the ribbon strip to come loose and you will end up losing the cards down the bottom

My same thoughts, I am experimenting with some now, but I think I will put a seam under each slot to hold the fabric in place then come up to the next one and stitch it down, I just don't trust glue, particularly not when there will be pressure against the bond as cards are inserted.

Chief

[NVLeatherWorx]

As RavenAus said, there is no back up to the glue process. I used to do wallet slots this way years ago using high quality poly fabrics but I always ran a stitching line across the top of each pocket edge to make sure that the fabric would have an extra "hold". I now use the stacked leather pocket process as it is much more durable and requires you stitch each pocket into place; not to mention, the result is a much more professional quality looking product when it is all put together.

Still, a subscription to the Leathercrafter's & Saddlers Journal is well worth the price and you can even purchase some of the back issues if you like.

[Wild Bill46]

Zayne ----------------------------

Some years ago, I debated this topic with myself in making myself a Truckers wallet.

for all the formentioned reasons, I elected to use 1.5 - 2. oz for square interior pockets, and sewed these

seperate pockets atop eachother to a separate back, before edge sewing/lacing the whole bilfold closed.

I have since reasoned, after seeing others designs, that the T-pockets would indeed be best for my for my quest.

Hope this might be of help ? Merry Christmas to you and yours ---------- Wild Bill46

[zaynexpetty]

As RavenAus said, there is no back up to the glue process. I used to do wallet slots this way years ago using high quality poly fabrics but I always ran a stitching line across the top of each pocket edge to make sure that the fabric would have an extra "hold". I now use the stacked leather pocket process as it is much more durable and requires you stitch each pocket into place; not to mention, the result is a much more professional quality looking product when it is all put together.

Still, a subscription to the Leathercrafter's & Saddlers Journal is well worth the price and you can even purchase some of the back issues if you like.

I actually really like and prefer the minimalistic look of the type of pockets in question, but the stacked pocket method does seem to be a lot less complicated and more durable. I am thinking I will have to resort to the stacked method, because I don't like the idea of using wide ribbon or thin leather pockets, which would more time in constructing the wallet.

[NVLeatherWorx]

@zaynexpetty: I too go with a more minimalist approach to it and I do this by using true 2 to 3 oz. cowhide for my interior pieces, more specifically, the pockets. I also use the T-style pocket but I cut in from the edge on average 9/16" to 3/4" and then taper the tongue inwards. This creates a nice professional look and feel to the pocket stack. The bottom edge of the pocket tongue is then stitched to the base at 1/8" from bottom edge.

I am currently working on a new design that I just drafted out today and would be more than happy to share the results with you if you would like.

[zaynexpetty]

@zaynexpetty: I too go with a more minimalist approach to it and I do this by using true 2 to 3 oz. cowhide for my interior pieces, more specifically, the pockets. I also use the T-style pocket but I cut in from the edge on average 9/16" to 3/4" and then taper the tongue inwards. This creates a nice professional look and feel to the pocket stack. The bottom edge of the pocket tongue is then stitched to the base at 1/8" from bottom edge.

I am currently working on a new design that I just drafted out today and would be more than happy to share the results with you if you would like.

I also plan on using 2/3 oz for the pockets if I do the stacked method. I have a whole side of it and haven't been able to think of anything to use it for besides interior pockets.

Yes please! Let me know how it goes!

[NVLeatherWorx]

@zaynexpetty: I have sent you a PM with some stuff to look at and consider.

[Hi Im Joe]

My solution to the glue was to sew the ribbon pocket in.

Here's an example of what it looks like:

[Wild Bill46]

Zanexpetty -----------------

Thanx Joe ! This is what I debated myself years ago,

Separate webbed - being the operative word , 1.5 -2 oz whole or T- pockets, seem to work best fo me !

[ramrod]

joe - it looks like you used a cotton canvas for the interior. and a heavy one at that. is that correct? i think it looks great.

[MonicaJacobson]

Looks like a classy way to solve the problem, Joe.

[Hi Im Joe]

joe - it looks like you used a cotton canvas for the interior. and a heavy one at that. is that correct? i think it looks great.

Yeah its duck cotton. It looks extra thick because I fold it over at the edges to prevent fraying.

Looks like a classy way to solve the problem, Joe.

Thanks!

[rawr66]

Here's a video on the construction of a long wallet. It doesn't show the end and how it's put together and finished, but it gives you an idea of how to measure the fabric. I would assume it's finely stitched by hand or a sewing machine for the finished project. For the vertical wallet in your post I think the side stitched would do a fairly good job of keeping the fabric together along with some cement for the slots.

Edited December 23, 2014 by rawr66

[JLSleather]

Chubby girl makes these -- this one in 1.5 oz kidskin. One layer, except where the id window is on top, and where it's folded (folded edge is middle of wallet). Every pocket stitched in. Looks great, and keeps a wallet thin. Still, takes a LONG time, requires a pretty small needle (this one in a machine with a #16 needle and 8 spi). Unless you are making ONE every so often, probably cost effective to just call the gals at SLC and order the chaylor interior (stick it and go).

[Muhammad Shamsuddoha Hayat]

I have made a lot of wallets with these slit pockets. It cuts down on thickness but takes quite a lot of work. Used only glues(in copious amount), never stitched them. I usually use porous polymer fabric as interior. Looks nice, cuts down on thickness and weight but a headache to get them right. Tried to use canvas as interior but the weight made the glue ineffective.The steps are quite simple,

1)Cut fabric for interior in such size as it covers the lowermost pocket along with the part above the lowermost slit.

2)Repeat (1) for the required number of pockets.

3) Stitch or glue the cut fabric by stacking them in such way that they form pockets that are equal in area but each 1-1.5cm(the difference depends on the separation of the slits) higher than the other.

4)Stitch or glue the entire set of pockets to the exterior. The extended part of each pocket should be glued or stitched to the parts above the slits.

Pardon my English and my poor description of the process.

Here's a sample with polymer as interior :

[DANDTON]

Can someone explain to me how this is done? I was wanting to do card slots like this for a wallet that I am making, but couldn't figure out, so I went on etsy to see if it was even possible and found a good example, but still can't figure it out.

How do the cards in the higher slots not fall to the bottom? I am confused.

Let me draw an instruction picture to show you..... Actually the fabric lining was glued on the flesh side of the front leather, and when you sew the lining's two sides, it forms a card back....I wish you can understand the instruction picture. You can use a whole piece of fabric or cut them into pieces, both are OK.

[Bob Blea]

I've made a couple of roper wallets using the ribbon for pockets. I learned to make these in a Chan Geer class and it was opinion that the glue bond was strong enough on its own to hold the pockets in place. After reading the other comments in this thread I decide to put it to the test. I built a small test pocket using just glue to hold the ribbon in place.

I took a piece of scrap and made a pocket with two credit card slots, then made the ribbon for the pocket and glued it in using Weldwood contact cement.

I then folded the leather over and clamped it in place and let it dry overnight.

I'm now in the process of repeatedly sliding a credit card into the lower slot to see how long it takes for it to break. When done properly Weldwood has a very strong bond to leather and I don't think the ribbon will pull away from the leather. I think the ribbon will wear out first but I don't know for certain. For my wear testing I assumed that a heavy user would might use their card three times a day, so I figured three insertions a day every day for a year would work out to about a 1000 cycles per year. That's probably easily twice what an actual user would do so it's probably a good stress test number. I would like it to at least last for ten years so I need it to make at least 10000 cycles to be acceptable, though I would prefer it goes twice that.

Right now I've put it through almost 3000 insertions and so far no problems. I'll keep it up and let everyone know the results.