Broken Cowboy 4500

[catskin]

The screw that holds the foot on broke. can anyone tell me if it is a regular screw , metric or standard and what I size I would have to ask for. Or is it some oddball size and thread like singer and some other machines have.

Attn. Bob most of your website does not work when I click on parts or other things on the left side the screen just goes black.

[Trox]

Hi, the machine uses Juki spare parts, you can buy them anywhere. And this will happen from time to time on any machine, its a screw with much use. Do not use a screw from the hardware store, it needs to be top quality so it do not break off inside the needle bar. Then you have to drill it out again, I have tried that a couple of times on other machines. It can be expensive to buy a new needle bar.

The screw you need is: Juki part# SS 6110710-TP screw 11/64-40 L=6.5

Thats the part number, and the machine name is JUKI TSC 441. Thats all you need to order a new screw from Juki.

Not many clone brands has their own spare part program, no need for that. They should have been using a allen screw there like Duerkopp Adler does. I see you do not have to change the hole needle bar on the 441 if you have a stuck broken screw in it. You can change the small bottom part of it with the needle screw and thread guide, named "needle stopper" # 210-92408.

Tor

[catskin]

Just to explain as I should have in my first post this is the screw that holds the OUTER foot not the one that the needle goes through that one uses 2 allen head screws. I have to admit I was hoping I could put in a grade 8 or grade 12 screw bought locally.

As for getting the broken part out since there was no longer any pressure on it I was able to catch the end sticking through with fingers and turn it out.

Edited February 27, 2015 by catskin

[Trox]

Sorry, now I see it. I can send you a link to my part list and manual so you can find the part your self. Message sent

Tor

[Constabulary]

I´m Sorry but your topic is a bit misleading - you don´t have a broken Cowboy 4500 machine - you just have a broken screw.

I´d call your dealer and order one - can´t be too expensive.

On my end the website works and when I click on Parts I see this;

We stock replacement screws and parts for most industrial 
sewing machines, including Singer and Adler patchers. We probably have 
what you are looking for. Please call us toll free, at 866-362-7397 to 
inquire.

sounds like a good idea

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

Just to add, 11/64-40 is a very common Singer thread pitch and dia. screw, that appears all over the place on industrial sewing machines. Every sewing guy should have something that will work here.

[Gump]

11/64 is a number size 9. It is easier to order that screw as a #9-40 tpi. It would only be available from a dealer or a specialty bolt supplier.

[catskin]

Const. You are sort of right, I should have put on between broken and cowboy. But less miss leading then the topic that says HOME MADE sewing machine when all he did was cobble together a motor and belt drive. And call it direct drive.

Thanks to others for your suggestions finally got an answer at Toledo and screws should be coming.

[gottaknow]

Glad you got your screws coming catskin. If I could just add a bit of sage advice about sewing machine screws, it may save someone trouble down the road. I'm currently apprenticing two mechanics. One has about 18 months behind him and the other is just starting. I have known many mechanics over the years, and we all try to get really resourceful and creative. I spend a great deal of time teaching my mechanics how to tighten screws. It begins with having the correct screw as a replacement. A common mis-step is to try and get harder screws that don't break, or will last longer. It just doesn't work long term. A replacement screw that is harder than the threaded hole becomes a tap. It will wear out the threads of a presser bar or needle bar, or something else that is much harder to deal with if it strips. As catskin discovered, the broken screw came out easy for him once the pressure was relieved. I would rather replace screws all day long than replace presser bars or needle bars. I make my guys practice tightening throat plate screws until they can match my torque. There are of course non-stress screws like misc.cover plates and such that you can get your MacGyver on with. Once you own a machine for a while, you'll learn which parts you should keep on hand. Have fun!

Regards, Eric

[Darren Brosowski]

Great Post. This is basic engineering and the other problem is that hardened screws are usually going to break sooner as they are less ductile. Harder is not always better.

Glad you got your screws coming catskin. If I could just add a bit of sage advice about sewing machine screws, it may save someone trouble down the road. I'm currently apprenticing two mechanics. One has about 18 months behind him and the other is just starting. I have known many mechanics over the years, and we all try to get really resourceful and creative. I spend a great deal of time teaching my mechanics how to tighten screws. It begins with having the correct screw as a replacement. A common mis-step is to try and get harder screws that don't break, or will last longer. It just doesn't work long term. A replacement screw that is harder than the threaded hole becomes a tap. It will wear out the threads of a presser bar or needle bar, or something else that is much harder to deal with if it strips. As catskin discovered, the broken screw came out easy for him once the pressure was relieved. I would rather replace screws all day long than replace presser bars or needle bars. I make my guys practice tightening throat plate screws until they can match my torque. There are of course non-stress screws like misc.cover plates and such that you can get your MacGyver on with. Once you own a machine for a while, you'll learn which parts you should keep on hand. Have fun!

Regards, Eric