Flip Flops Tutorial

[Reegesc]

A must fashion item for the 60s - 70s Time Traveler.

Psychedelic accents set these funky sandals apart from the tire-soled huaraches fare and put you right in the middle of the "in-crowd". Whether grooving at Woodstock or throwing frisbees in the park, these sandals are as hip as you can get. If it's good to ya, it's gotta be good for ya. Right on! Keep on trucking, baby.

I'm working on a tutorial for these and one other model of Men's Sandals, plus a a minimalist, or "barefoot sandal", as a companion to the Flips Flops Tutorial. Should have a download posted in a few days in the tutorial section.

Until then, peace and be cool.

Edited August 5, 2015 by cseeger

[Grey Drakkon]

Awesomesauce.

[Reegesc]

@Grey -- Does the upper's leather look familiar? Thx

[Grey Drakkon]

Now that you mention it, you stole my idea! Was totally going to make sandals out of the Horween, you must have been spying on my secret plans...

[Tinkerton]

Quick question, I'm probably overthinking it, but when putting on a leather sole, is it grain side or flesh side down?

[Reegesc]

@Tinkerton, grain side is the outside. The flesh side is inside and the side you glue. Also, it's a good idea to scuff the grain side as it will be a little on the slippery side at first, and maybe that's what prompted your question.

Ha, just occurred to me that this is an age old questioned that man has wrestled with since the dawn of time -- flesh or flash? I think the answer has been flash for a long time. Here's one of the oldest pair of shoes ever discovered -- 5,500 years old. Looks like Flash to me. ;-)

Edited August 9, 2015 by cseeger

[bananaplum]

Thank you so much for the tutorial! I have plantar fasciitis and I was hoping to make a comfy flip flop myself with the special cushioning... this will help immensely!

[Yzabel68]

Wow Thank you so much wanting to do this since a few years alreadythought about it a lot , but never happened yet. Now it will !!! Thank's to you.

I will post some pictures as soon as I do something :D but before I just have to find solution to make thoses moc's bigger for a special customer ... and all the others that have been asking me about it.

Always wanted to make shoes, this will be a good basic ( if ever I go further... )

thank's again !!!

pick below of only footwear I,ve done succesfully yet !

[Yzabel68]

LOL, I am very flattered. I will treasure that trophy forever.

I just saw your Etsy site, your art is beautiful ! Guess I haven't found yet what I really like/want to make and specialize on ...

https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/Robisart

[MonicaJacobson]

I was looking at you shop - I love the red little purse you made with the geometric stamping. Very cool! I haven't tried lacing, yet.

[Yzabel68]

I was looking at you shop - I love the red little purse you made with the geometric stamping. Very cool! I haven't tried lacing, yet.

Lacing is cool but time consuming, but so beautiful , love to braid as well ''mystery braid'' with 5-7 strands, little more challenging than the regular 3 braids.

I have started a pair of Flip Flops !!! It is more steps and time consuming we would think at first.... will post picks ...eventually as work gets done.

[Scholastica]

This is just what I was looking for. Thank you so much!

[broncobuster]

I cant get the pdf to download for some reason. keep asking me to sign in and i am in.

[Reegesc]

@Queen -- sent you a copy via PM

[hackaday]

Any progress on the new tutorial? I'm always looking for new inspiration.

[Reegesc]

You mean the Sandals Tutorial I promised last August? Where I said:

“I’m working on a tutorial for these and one other model of Men’s Sandals, plus a minimalist, or “barefoot sandal”, as a companion to the Flip Flops Tutorial. Should have a download posted in a few days in the tutorial section.”

That post? Where I promised a tutorial but was really just showing off this pair of sandals I had made?

No Sir, I have not made any progress whatsoever. What happened was I went through the pics I had taken and realized they weren’t going to work. Oddly, the thing that the tutorial is about is not the thing you make for the tutorial. You have to decide on the front end what is you’re doing. Making sandals or making a tutorial? If it’s a tutorial then you make a series of process steps and you think in terms of process steps. That meant I had to start all over, which is no problem if you are really motivated to make a tutorial. I was more motivated to move on to shoemaking.

I still might make that tutorial and even one on Shoemaking. Who knows? I'm a novice at all of this and I’m just self-teaching my way through by trial and error. But listen, if you can make flip flops, you can make sandals. And if you can make sandals, you can make shoes.

Tell ya what, here’s a Cliff’s Notes version of the Tutorial I was going to make.

Forget The Patterns - Use The Concepts

==============================

Sandals are not much different than flip flops; heck, flip flops are sandals. The key bit in either case is securing the upper to the lower using "sew tabs" that are folded under the insole and are stitched down.

I came up with a variety of approaches on how to do this.

- Eliminate the fold tabs altogether and stitch the "stub" straight down to the insole. It’s a really cool look with the stitches exposed but requires that your stitches are all lined up perfectly.

- You can fold inwards, you can fold outwards.

- You can expose the fold on top of the insole, again either inwards or outwards (the latter being a lot easier of course).

- The Elevator Approach — Raise the insole into the upper and keep it suspended while you stitch down to the midsole, Then lower the insole and glue down. Provides for a really sleek look not having stitches exposed but with all the strength benefit that stitching provides.

- Side Stitched. Here you notch the insole on the side, just enough for the tab to fit flush to the insole and at the same angle where it meets the insole. You use a running stitch at the same angle (for looks) to secure. The stitches are exposed on the side, so again you have to get the stitches symmetrical for a nice look.

As of the uppers, there are further options using buckled straps which are particularly useful as backstraps to really secure the sandal to your foot and an absolute must if you intend on running with them as in the case of the “barefoot sandal” that is so popular now.

Shoemaking

===========

There’s not much difference between sandal making and shoemaking to tell you the truth. I’m referring to Men’s casual shoes, not that mind-blowing bespoke stuff. I’m not saying it’s easy, however. Shoes are a lot harder than sandals — not the technical parts. Stitching is stitching. Rather, it’s the patterns and fit that will drive you crazy. Don’t even bother with shoemaking unless you have a pair of lasts. You should have those even for sandal making actually.

You can get a pair of used lasts for $50 on eBay any day of the week. Wait and hunt for a deal and you can get a pair for $20 or less. While waiting for your eBay deal to come along, try your hand at making some lasts yourself.

Just a side note on lasts, they are not replicas of your feet as commonly thought of. Instead, they are the cavity of a shoe, the empty space inside a shoe. Might seem like hair splitting but it is an important difference. Your foot fits inside that cavity.

Anyways, here’s a cheap and easy way to make some lasts using expanding foam. You’ll need to sacrifice a pair of shoes however. Lace up the shoes as you normally would and place a plastic bag inside the shoe.

<Just occurred to me that you should put some talc powder in that bag and give it a shake. I forget whether I did that or not, but I must have otherwise it would be difficult to separate the plastic>

Then fill it up with expanding foam making sure you fill in the entire cavity. You’ll end up using too much and it will bulge at the shoe and expand out of the top enough to make half a lower leg. Not a problem. Just let it cure and cutaway the shoe.

Remove the plastic and sand off any excess bits. Then cover the foam last in masking rape or duct tape. Any tape. You know what would look cool? That white cloth medical tape — get that “invisible man” look. In any case, be sure to apply tape to prevent crumbling from handling,

If you want to get artsy with it, decoupage the masking tape. Why not? I did. I also sprayed it with some varnish.

And then a curious thing happened, the foam shrunk. I guess with that much foam it takes a while for the center to cure and when it did everything shrunk. But it wasn’t anything that a couple pairs of thick socks couldn’t take care of.

Right after congratulating yourself on how smart and practical you are you will discover the shortcomings of a foam last. “It sure would be nice if I could secure the upper by tacking or nailing it to the last while taken measurements and for fittings.”

Indeed it would, Go back and hunt for a deal on eBay. I just wanted a “reasonable” deal and refused to pay usury prices for something that’s just a hunk of wood. (Turns out that last making is a specialized art from that takes years to master.)

Mastery or not, it’s still true that it’s just a hunk of wood. If you’re comfortable with woodworking, you can make a rudimentary pair for the cost of 2x6 and 2x4 scrap wood. Just stack and glue graduated pieces from toes to ankle height and draw the outline of your foot on the side. Then spend a couple hours at the belt sander and you’ll get a pair you can work with, Use your feet as a shape guide and a pair of existing shoes as your guide for fit.

For me the biggest benefit in making homemade lasts is that I now more fully understand and appreciate the lasts I purchased on eBay. I will say though that I still use my homemade wood lasts at times.

The other thing that is difficult for me is converting a 3D concept into a 2D pattern. The 2D version of the front half of a shoe doesn’t look like a shoe at all, not to me anyways. And forget about finding patterns for men’s shoes. There aren’t any. However, there are plenty of YouTube videos showing you the “tape method” for pattern making. You might find those useful, they weren’t much help for me.

What worked for me was to take shoes apart. Instant pattern. The hard part is finding the style you like at a cheap price. I’m interested in retro patterns from the 70’s like these two shoes:

Those shoes cost upwards of $150 new and $50+ used on ebay because retro is the thing these days. But I know a guy who knows a guy who knows about this place: ShopGoodwill.org (sorry for the itsy bitsy pic -- click on it for something you can actually see. THIS SITE'S FORMATTING!!!!!! ARRRRGH!!!!!)

This is Goodwill’s auction site that looks like it was built using a TRS 80 hobbyist PC before the internet existed, but once you get used to navigating you will be surprised with how deep their inventory is and the low prices. I’ve bought several pairs and was the only bidder.

As show in the screenshot, there are 360 listings for “Leather” in the Men’s Shoes category starting at $3.

Taking shoes apart is highly recommended, not just to yield a pattern but also to figure out how they were constructed. Once you get that level of understanding, it’s no big deal to experiment with your own ideas and patterns because you’re starting from a working model instead of from scratch.

The stitch down shoe is pretty straightforward and easily doable for the intermediate level leatherworker. No special tools required and no new techniques to learn. Look at how the upper is attached in this pic. That’s about as straightforward as it gets.

I’m partial to the Chukka style which can be found in a variety of shoe style as well as boots. That’s the next level after shoes.

I also want to figure out how to make these guys. These are traditional Turkish Shoes that have been around for a loooooong time and still being made today. I want to say they date back centuries, but I don't know that for sure. Many many years. They look super cool and comfortable, don't they? Some hot shot kid is marketing these in the U.S. for $200 pop and I would be surprised if his cost was more than $20. Google "Sabah Shoe" for more info.

About the only thing unique about shoemaking is soling material. Soles take a beating and can wear out quickly. The best leather option is “shoe sole bend” — super thick, super strong, compressed leather that you’ll need a bandsaw to cut. It’s expensive and not readily sourced. From there your looking at rubber or synthetic materials and those are expensive too….unless you know somebody who spent months finding this triple top secret soling tip.

During my research, I ran into a handful of recommendations to use conveyor belt material. In fact there’s a couple such posts on this forum that mention it. Apparently this was a popular choice years ago, particularly with moccasin makers who could source used conveyor belts for practically nothing. Then came eBay where anything is worth something to someone and sure enough that drove prices way up.

Look, this is just plain o’ rubber. You can buy rubber floor mats for next to nothing. Surely somebody offers industrial rolls of rubber cheaply? No no no. Apparently not. But here’s the thing. There is one price for a “roll of rubber sheeting” and then there’s another price for “Skirtboard 60 +/-5 Durometer.”

Sometimes what you know is better than who you know.

I found a deal for a 50’ roll that is 5” wide and 1/4” thick for .79 cents a foot – free shipping! That’s $40 delivered. That will yield up to 25 pairs of soles. Now that’s what I’m talking about! Compare that to the other alternatives at $10/pair and more….a lot more in some cases. (Sorry about the image sizes. For the life of me, this board drives me crazy when it comes to formatting. Click on the pic and you'll actually be able to see the dang thing.)

I haven’t worked with it much yet. Feels like it will last forever. Very flexible yet firm. I like the feel of it, even the smell of it. Has a perfumey sort of smell. Easy to work with, cuts like a dream. I cut out a pair of soles and glued it to one of my failed shoe attempts (I have a bunch) and it looked great…..and then it started separating after a couple days of use.

Stitching it down will obviously work, but that will require a channel and punching or drilling holes. I haven’t tried it yet, but I don’t think a stitching iron will work as the holes will fill right back up. But maybe not. Like I said, haven’t yet put it through the tests.

I don’t know if this is some special deal or not but everywhere else it’s lot more expensive. Just saying, for $40 you can’t go wrong. Get a roll of this for whatever shoe style you’re working on, flips flops, sandals, or shoes. I just can’t help but think that this deal is probably not going to last long. Heck, that roll is so heavy you would spend $30 just to ship it.

And there you have it.

EDIT: I still haven't made a "perfect" pair, but this is my best effort so far. Notice that it's just one shoe. I have lot of those. No point making the other one if you're going to do it all over.

EDIT 2: Check out this Dude. I call it "The Liberace". Again, just one shoe -- it was extremely uncomfortable. This design just came out of nowhere, sorta. I was taking apart a failed attempt on a chukka style and it was taking forever, so I took the scissors to it and cut off the upper, just leaving a stub attached to the insole. It caught my attention right away and I stared at it while my brain whizzed through it's "match that image" thing that it does. And then it occurred to me. Heck. that's a loafer without a top. I tossed the failed attempt to the side and went straight to work on this prototype. I think it's cool. I had a Miami Vice vibe in mind. To bad it kills your feet. I'll come back to this style later on. Lots of variations you can do with this style.

Edited January 27, 2016 by cseeger

[Cardoo]

I liked the tutorial. Wish I had seen it before my trials and errors! Thank you just the same!

[Reegesc]

I liked the tutorial. Wish I had seen it before my trials and errors! Thank you just the same!

Thank you, but I'm glad you took the trial and error approach instead and used this as a reference. Not to get too Philosophical about it......oh, what the heck! Let's get Philosophical!

Tutorials teach how to make a thing while trial and error teaches how to work with leather. That's a big difference. The fact is, if you get it right the first time? You haven't learned anything. But by the time you do get it right, you can make it and its cousin variants multiple ways. Not only that but there's a hidden bonus too. You get to write tutorials. ;-)

[hackaday]

Unfortunately trial and error seems to be unavoidable regardless. The "how" in regards to putting it together is easy enough for me. I am still working on the aesthetics and proper strap placement to make it stay where I want it. Granted, maybe I'm just pickier than most. Out of four and a half pair (not counting my early attempts that I won't even claim), the only pair I am happy enough with to wear are the flip flops I think I posted here.

I finally found a sole shape that I was happy with on those flip flops, then on my next two I attempted to tweak it some more. Should have left it alone. I have also been battling the straps pulling the foot to one side or another. For something as "simple" as a sandal, there sure are a lot of nuances that effect the function. That's why I like seeing other's attempts and designs. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a lot of people doing it. At least not that are sharing.

I don't mind trial and error, but it starts to get expensive.

Edited March 15, 2016 by hackaday

[Reegesc]

On March 15, 2016 at 3:45 PM, hackaday said:

I don't mind trial and error, but it starts to get expensive.

Boy ain't that the truth.  Just how much did those flops end up costing you when it's all said and done with? 

This is one area where it's better being a hobbyist than a pro in the business because you have several different ways to figure out how much those flip flops cost you whereas the pro only has one and it ain't the one you want, trust me.  

There's the Finished Project Incremental Method where you only add up the cost of supplies and materials that you had to purchase to make the pair you are satisfied with.  For example, if you didn't have to buy anything beyond what you already had on hand, the cost is zero.  Free flops.  This is the recommended costing approach, particularly if the answer is "Zero."

Then there's the Learning Curve Incremental Method where you add up the cost of supplies and materials (and tools if you bought any) that you actually incurred starting with your first attempt and all subsequent attempts clear through your final attempt.  You still might come out on the low end, even zero cost is possible.

Then there's the Full Absorption Method which is the only method available to those in biz.   This is NOT a recommended costing approach for hobbyists, particularly those with heart issues or nagging spouses, as it is a truer reflection of actual cost and it will be a MUCH higher figure than the previous two methods.  With the full absorption method you factor in the cost of all your tools (depreciation) and not just dedicated leatherwork tools,  ANY TOOL.  You also factor in the cost of all the materials and supplies used, from first attempt to finished project, regardless of when purchased, plus an allowance for scrap and waste using "first in first out" pricing .  If you have a dedicated workspace, you add the cost of that space on pro rata basis -- that includes utilities, taxes, insurance in addition to rent or depreciation if you own the facility.    Most businesses would stop there, but to be truly accurate, include the cost of all the beverages you drank from the workshop fridge to keep you going late into the night even if they were responsible for failed attempts.  Don't blame the beer!  Plus factor in the opportunity cost of a foregone second job in lieu of putzing around for hours on end in your workshop instead.   Also, add the cost of pain and suffering if you whack your fingers with a cobbler's hammer, jab a needle in your hand, or take a knife nick.  Also account for how much you would have had to contribute  if you were held to a Mandatory $1 Cuss Jar.  

Truth is a relative thing.  It's up to you, but most people would prefer to honestly say "Next to nothing" instead of "A little under a grand" when asked how much it cost to make those fine looking flops you're wearing.  Stick with the first two methods and you could pass a lie detector test and come off like a rational, logical human being.  Go with the third method and no matter how awesome the flip flops are you will be immediately branded a nut.

Just saying...

 

[hackaday]

I think I tend to go with the second method.  I keep telling myself if I can at least manage a second pair I'm happy with, I'll cut my cost in half.

I wouldn't include the cost of all the tools I used since I already have a bunch of non leatherwork tools.  I will decline to comment on whether I have convinced myself to purchase additional tools because "I could use it anyway."

 

The cost of a couple double shoulders, various rubber sheets, misc junk leathers I bought before I had a clue what I was doing, etc etc is scary enough.

I've tried to come up with cheap materials that one could use for making prototypes.  Haven't found anything that really behaves like the real thing though.  Cork works for the midsole.  Haven't found anything hard, yet flexible enough for outsole.  Same with uppers and straps.

[Reegesc]

28 minutes ago, hackaday said:

Haven't found anything hard, yet flexible enough for outsole.

I love this stuff for soling material.   This is rubber conveyor belt material otherwise known as "Skirtboard".  Flexible, durable (well, time will tell but it sure looks durable)....it even has a perfumey smell if you can believe that.   It is joy to work with.  It is substantially easier to work with than leather.  It's easier to cut, it's easier to groove, it's easier to stitch.  Cutting a tread is easy as can be using your V Groove tool or French Skiver or similar tools.

https://www.mrosupply.com/rubber/skirt-board-rubber/1695546_6341-0805_jason-industrial/?utm_campaign=Order-Acknowledgement-Auto&utm_source=Transactional-Email&utm_medium=Email

Wear nitrate gloves while hand sewing the uppers to the rubber outsoles to minimize transferring black rubber residue on your leather.  You'll still get some residue on the gloves, but far less than your bare hands.  Just keep an eye on it and put on a new pair when it begins to build up.

Sadly, few of you are going to go with my recommendation.  A 50' roll is just ridiculous you'll say.   All you want is enough to make a couple pairs.  Fine.  Go out there and price outsoles by the pair.  The first thing you'll notice is there isn't much of a selection and what is available is expensive.  Here's an offering on Etsy that's attractive:  precut, prepunched, lots of colors, for a quality brand sole (Vibram).  Perfect except it's $15 a pair.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/203119955/vibram-rubber-soles-for-slippers-and?ref=market

 

For soling material by the sheet, you're pretty much limited to Duratec Rubber Soling Sheets.  Here's one for an 8" x 20" sheet, enough for one pair @ $4.50 but it's paper thin at 1.4mm thick.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/204559109/duratec-rubber-soling-sheet-8-x-20?ref=market

 

Now take another look at my suggestion.  $40 for a 50' roll and shipping is free.  You first pair costs $40.  The second pair $20.  Make ten pairs and your cost is down to $4.   Use it all and your cost is $1.60 pair.    Maybe you have a friend who will split it with you?  Maybe you discover that you could use a conveyor belt to move dirty clothes from the hamper to the washing machine?   However you rationalize it, you'll not be disappointed with this soling material.

 

[hackaday]

17 hours ago, cseeger said:

I love this stuff for soling material.   This is rubber conveyor belt material otherwise known as "Skirtboard".  Flexible, durable (well, time will tell but it sure looks durable)....it even has a perfumey smell if you can believe that.   It is joy to work with.  It is substantially easier to work with than leather.  It's easier to cut, it's easier to groove, it's easier to stitch.  Cutting a tread is easy as can be using your V Groove tool or French Skiver or similar tools.

https://www.mrosupply.com/rubber/skirt-board-rubber/1695546_6341-0805_jason-industrial/?utm_campaign=Order-Acknowledgement-Auto&utm_source=Transactional-Email&utm_medium=Email

Wear nitrate gloves while hand sewing the uppers to the rubber outsoles to minimize transferring black rubber residue on your leather.  You'll still get some residue on the gloves, but far less than your bare hands.  Just keep an eye on it and put on a new pair when it begins to build up.

That's certainly cheap enough to not worry about wasting a pair or two.  I originally tried the 1/4" Soltech diamond pattern crepe.  With just it and the leather, it was too hard for my taste.

I then switched to the Acor mini check at 2.4mm with the 1/8" 30/35 durometer puff as a cushiony midsole.  I can get 5 pairs out of the 18x36" sheet if I'm careful; more for smaller feet.  That works out to less than $5 a pair, which isn't horrible... until you add in shipping.

 

I wonder if a guy could figure out a way to thin that belting down from 1/4".  I don't like the completed soles to end up too thick and heavy.

When you talk about the rubber transferring black residue, is that just one side?  Does the completed project have that problem, onto carpets for example?

[Reegesc]

They sell skirtboard in all sorts of dimensions.  I just took a look at that site and they offer 3/8" @ $1.29/ft which works out to $65 for a 50' roll.   

https://www.mrosupply.com/rubber/skirt-board-rubber/1695556_6341-1205_jason-industrial/

I don't see why you couldn't split the 1/4".    Haven't tried this, but it cuts so easily and evenly I'd bet you could split it if you had a bench splitter.   I know you you can sand it down on a belt sander and even here it is easier to work with than leather.   Getting a nice even thickness would be challenging on a belt sander, however.   But I dunno, maybe if you made yourself a jig?   

Both sides are the same -- super smooth, very flexible, dense rubber. 

Residue isn't an issue in normal use or normal handling like cutting out the soles or gouging out a tread and wearing them.  I'm referring to hand sewing which requires constant handling for three hours straight, turning it over and over.   That's where you'll get residue build up from the sweat and oils off your bare hands mixing with the rubber.  Mind you, it's not like it turns your hands black.  You hands just get dirty and you don't want that transferred to your leather.  This is an issue handling leather in general.  How many veg tan pieces have you dorked up handling and working it with your bare hands?  I've hosed up my fair share.  A lot of toolers wear nitrate gloves for this very reason.

I'm fairly certain there aren't hidden issues with this material because it was the material of choice by moccasin makers back in the day before eBay monetized everything .   For years moccasin makers would go to factories and get used belts for free.  There is a couple citations here on the forum in fact.   I got all excited when I found this secret while hunting for a low cost rubber soling material only to discover that it isn't a low cost option anymore.  

This deal is exceptionally low.  Maybe it's an overstock situation, I don't know, but it's so low that I'm inclined to get another roll before it disappears.   

To tell you the truth, I've been considering selling it myself.  Any takers?  $5 a pair + shipping.  I'll even throw in a cardboard template of the size of your choice.  

 

Edited April 6, 2016 by cseeger

[fiskurjoe]

@cseeger - did you use the 1/4" or 3/8" or something else in the photos posted on April 5? The soles look thicker than 1/4".

I'd like to try this - and would be willing to purchase 2-3 linear feet from you. Can you let me know cost/shipping, etc? I don't yet want to get a full roll...thanks!