Belt Slots

[paris3200]

I've gotten back into making holsters after a hiatus. I'm fairly happy with the holsters I'm turning out except for the belt slots. Currently, I'm satisfied with cutting out. I'm using a round punch and a chisel. Upgrading to a custom punch is on my list.

I'm not happy with the finishing. It seems no matter what I do they look terrible. I've tried edging them with a #2 edge beveler, dying and then burnishing the best I can with a small dowel wrapped in canvas. They turn out just looking bad.

How do you guys do it? I've thought about just cutting them and leaving them natural.

[camano ridge]

Can you show us a picture? We can then see if there is a tip we can give you in making them look better.

[Dwight]

Here is what I use, . . . has never let me down. The tools all fit in a Dremel.

I also use a # 4 edger.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited April 24, 2015 by Dwight

[Lobo]

Nice clean slots that require little or no additional effort can be done with the round punch and wood chisel method, but only if two details are attended to.

1. The punches and chisels must be sharp, capable of making the required cuts with one good rap of the mallet.

2. The piece being cut must be fully supported on a solid cutting board surface. A good kitchen-style plastic cutting board supported by a solid work bench will work just fine. Wooden surfaces will not provide the support needed for the cutting tool to complete a clean cut.

If your current set-up seems to require pounding away on the chisels and punches to get the job done, and the underside openings are ragged looking, there is some room for improvement.

I buy good kitchen cutting boards for about $10 each, and each lasts about a year or so in the shop (probably about 1500 cuts) before they are so beat up they need replacing. Sharpening a wood chisel requires only a few minutes with a good whet stone, perhaps once per month. The round punches seldom need attention unless they are driven through a piece into a surface that will damage the edge, and even then at about $4 per punch it is easier to replace it than to try sharpening. Punches up to 1/2" can be chucked into my drill press and the cutting edge touched up with 600-grit emery paper, but I'd rather just keep extra punches on hand and trash one when it becomes difficult to use. A 2-lb. dead blow mallet will drive the chisels and punches through two layers of 8 or 9 oz. cowhide like cutting butter, seldom requiring a second blow.

[Red Cent]

I dug up an old sturdy paint scraper, cut the blade at the length that would provide a 1 3/4" cut and sharpened it razor sharp. One ton hand press puts two easy holes and the stubby paint scraper cuts full length between the holes with a smack.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-in-Stiff-Paint-Scraper-DSX3S/202038684

Edited April 27, 2015 by Red Cent

[snubbyfan]

I use the punch a coupla holes and connect them with a chisel method. I make sure my punch and chisels are as sharp as I can manage to get them. After punching and chiseling, I'll tidy up the cuts with a very sharp, stropped knife, sand it, then bevel, dye and burnish.

Works for me.

[Itch]

I use a Weaver belt slot punch ,with a scrap piece of leather between the pounding board and the holster as this will keep the holster from getting marked up. We stitch around the slots when possible,after wet forming the holster I then take an awl,screwdriver,or dowl what ever is handy and rub the inside of the slots while still wet. Once dry I edge and sand but they are usually very smooth and uniform at this point.. Good Luck

[Shooter McGavin]

I had a punch made to my specs. Bang it through with a mallet while the leather is a little wet. Then I use a #5 edger on the back side of the slots. I dont touch the front of the slots. Then the inside of the slots gets burnished at the same time the outside edges gets burnished, which is after wet molding.

[paris3200]

Thanks everyone for the responses. I haven't had time to get out to the leather shop recently. Next time I do I will try and get pictures of my slots.

Then I use a #5 edger on the back side of the slots. I dont touch the front of the slots.

I'm curious, why you don't touch the front of the slots?

[smirak]

I had a punch made to my specs. Bang it through with a mallet while the leather is a little wet. Then I use a #5 edger on the back side of the slots. I dont touch the front of the slots. Then the inside of the slots gets burnished at the same time the outside edges gets burnished, which is after wet molding.

I just gotta ask a) how much time did you spend on the black holster? And how did you mold it?

[Shooter McGavin]

Thanks everyone for the responses. I haven't had time to get out to the leather shop recently. Next time I do I will try and get pictures of my slots.

I'm curious, why you don't touch the front of the slots?

The punch bevels them nicely, especially considering I punch the slots while the leather is damp.

I just gotta ask a) how much time did you spend on the black holster? And how did you mold it?

Ive never really "timed" a holster build, as Im usually doing them in batches of 10-14 holsters at a time.

For molding, I use a 6 ton press with rubber plates, and then a few Tandy tools for the detail lines.