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Lacing - A Few Basic Questions

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Hi!

For my newest project, a briefcase, i would like to cover the edges with a mexican basketwave.

I already saw some videos, bought the book "Lacing and stiching" and should be well prepared for the lacing :)

However, I am still unsure about the most basic thing in lacing: The holes/slits. So i ask you guys for help and hope that someone is willing to share her/his knowledge with me.

First of all, i do not have such a fancy "thonging chisel" of any kind, i only have some punches in different sizes and a rotary punch.

My lace measures 3/32 inch, so since i have to go twice through every hole, i guess i should use a 2.5 mm punch. Right?

But how far from the edge of the project shall i place the holes? All i have from the books is "1/8 inch". I cannot believe that 1/8 inch is sufficient for every project, every lacing technique and every kind of lace. Is there a rule of thumb or any other way of figuring that out?

And the other question is: Which interval should i use for the holes? Those thonging chisels seem to leave the same space between the holes as the width of the holes, so for a 2.5 mm punch this would mean a hole every 10mm. Am i right?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Greetings from Austria!

Andreas

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You change the look of the lace if it is farther in or out, but 1/8" is about average.

The smallest hole you can fit it to is best, but as to spacing if it is a 2.5 mm hole you would punch it every 5 mm.

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rule of thumb I use is same sized slit /hole as the lace and for the 3 on the corners, go 1.5x the size of the lace but I only use slits as I have the chisels. the space is also the same size as the holes

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Not a bad idea to stick to one unit of measure or the other. Working in 2 unit systems simultaneously will cause mistakes. 3/32 " is 2.38mm. Are you asking if a round 2.5mm hole is correct for 2 strands of this lace? How thick is it? The weight of the lace will also affect the hole size. make a couple short samples and try out a few things. Its way better to waste a little lace on a piece of scrap than to ruin a project you have time into.

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Thanks guys for your suggestions!

I did a little test piece and it turned out that the best measures for my project are: The center of the holes are 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) from the edge. The 5 mm distance between the center of the holes is perfect. And 2.5 mm diameter for the holes seems to be perfect as well (I use Tandy "Superior Calf Lace" which is 1mm thick and (measured) 2.5mm wide).

For the corners: I rounded the corners with a 25mm diameter and the holes which go along the rounded corner are punched in 4mm distance. This way i think i can just "lace around the corner" and avoid the double-lacing, which i do not like.

And i might have to punch the holes from the "inside" of the project, because the holes tend to frazzle on the side where the rotary punch met the anvil. And if i lace through the holes the same direction as they were punched, they frazzle even more. Maybe my rotary punch is crap ...

Man, that hole punching will turn me into a one-sided Popeye ... :)

OK, i think i'm well prepared now for the job. When it's finished, i'll post some pictures.

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Look at how your punch meets the anvil. If there is a space under the cutting edge, the punch frame is crooked. I have adjusted cheap ones by putting the anvil in a vise and slightly twisting the whole punch to get the anvil flat with the cutting surface of the punch tube. Giving the punch a quarter turn before you open it can help with cutting the stray fibers in the hole. If you use a hammered punch, it tends to go all the way through, cutting the fibers instead of squishing the last few against the anvil like rotarys are prone to.

Sharp tools=success. Learning how to sharpen tools is one of the most important skills to save money. It allows you to refurbish free/cheap old tools and make crappy new tools usable.

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As promised, here are some pictures from the finished project.

The lacing took very long, but i think it's worth the effort.

Doing the holes with the rotary punch was hard and the punch does not make straight holes for some reason. I think i need to get something better.

But it was the right decision to punch the holes from inside out.

Logbook   20150522   1

Logbook   20150522   2

Logbook   20150522   3

I did not lace two times through the same hole at the edges, but i think it is ok like this

Logbook   20150522   4

Hope you like it as much as i do :)))

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Very nice!

Bill

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All, and the corners looks pretty good.

When punching holes, keep the punch perpendicular to the leather, then inside and outside holes should not wander unless you punch in the wrong spot. I find with a hand held punch, it punches easier and cleaner if I place a piece of scrap between the leather and the anvil.

Tom

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All, and the corners looks pretty good.

When punching holes, keep the punch perpendicular to the leather, then inside and outside holes should not wander unless you punch in the wrong spot. I find with a hand held punch, it punches easier and cleaner if I place a piece of scrap between the leather and the anvil.

Tom

Hi

Speaking from bad experience, keeping the pumch perpendicular is harder than it looks. I used a 3/32 drill in a drill press and at least the wholes are straight now. I was sewing with waxed thread, not lace.

Later

Mike

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