Lined Or Lamenated Gun Belts

[plinkercases]

I recently lined a cartridge belt as follows: Main belt 10-11oz drum died veg, liner 4-5oz natural veg tan glued with super 77 applied to both surfaces and given goodly tack item. flesh to flesh.

So as an experiment I did not stich the edges as I have seem many without (and i like the look of the clean liner) and wonder if this would stand up.... it does not. I need to go back and tack the edges down in several places after a weekend of heavy use and then I will stitch the edges BUT.....

What glue do you all use and can you get a lamentation/liner to stay put at the edges without stitching and if so how?

Thanks in advance.

[NVLeatherWorx]

The best answer here is: if you are going to add any form of a second layer/lining to another piece of leather then you need to stitch the edges down, period. This is the only true way to ensure that the layers will remain intact (and attached to each other as they are intended to be) without having to re-work the project at a later date. Think of it this way: you wouldn't jump on a horse that has a saddle on it that hasn't been stitched or adequately assembled would you? I know that I wouldn't. Or, you can look at it this way: you wouldn't use that gun (for which you made the gunbelt) if all of the critical assembly points were only "temporarily" secured to test whether of not they will work would you? Again, I know I wouldn't.

[plinkercases]

Thank you,

I thought as much for the stitching. But also wanted to use the rig this weekend and took a time saving gamble./experiment. Luckily the belt is still is salvageable shape and I can re-glue the bits that are separating and then settle in with a movie and spend some tiem on the horse stitching the edges as required.

What do folk use most for large area gluing? Super 77 or similar sprays? rubber, contact, barge? I have used the spray and contact on projects with synthetic fleece and it also separate over time. Perhaps its time I try good old barge if it is that different from contact cement?

What say you the experienced?

[Chief31794]

NVLeatherworks nailed it pretty much. My rules in my shop are, if it's glued, it's stitched.

Chief

[plinkercases]

Yup got that for sure now. So...what glue do you all use and for which applications if various types?

[Dwight]

Weldwood contact cement will put shoe soles on without stitching. Mine have been on for something near 4 years, . . . have not come off yet.

I don't use any other glue or adhesive for 90+% of the stuff I do, . . . and the others are simply exceptions for a special use.

That includes belts, holsters, sheaths, phone cases, Ipad cases, purses, and probably something I can't think of at 11:20 PM.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited June 9, 2015 by Dwight

[Colt W Knight]

Ive used a lot of Super 77 to hold pieces together to make sewing easier.I have seen those edges separate, even with stitching. Never seen Weldwood contact cement come apart when properly applied and dried.

I use 77 when I just want to hold something in place for sewing. If I actually want to glue something together, I use Weldwood contact cement.

77 is way more convenient, but I don't think it bonds near as well as Weldwood.

Edited June 9, 2015 by Colt W Knight

[Chief31794]

I use Barge, I also use Feibings White Contact cement on linings, never had either of them separate.

I like the white contact cement on linings because it seems a little more flexible, but it may be just my imagination.

Chief

[byggyns]

For belts, holsters & sheaths, Weldwood.

When I'm doing book binding: weldwood to attach the leather to the boards or to other leather, white PVA to attach paper to the leather or boards.

When using a fabric liner, I'd probably use the spray. I've had good luck with 3M Super Trim Adhesive when doing automotive headliner replacements & upholstery, and I don't see why that wouldn't work really well on a fabric to leather interface.