wayner Report post Posted February 3 lol, he’s far from a Dummy. That man has taught me so much about leather work I am forever in his Debt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted February 3 well, that seems extreme but I maybe should get some these "NOT 5050" patterns digitalatized ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
remotelarry Report post Posted February 3 17 minutes ago, JLSleather said: well, that seems extreme but I maybe should get some these "NOT 5050" patterns digitalatized ... Yes, please. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted February 3 1 hour ago, remotelarry said: Yes, please. uh... okay. Any interest in tooling designs or instruction? Guessing if I upload a bit different style of holster I'll have to also change the directions a tad . That would take considerably longer, so ... This one shows a G27, tooled, monochrome colored, with safety thumb break strap and full lining. Tools used were added to the pic for a conversation round here somewhere a while back. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steelart999 Report post Posted February 4 I like that overall design. I tend to want to use the natural patterns of exotics on the items I'm making, but, that said I've ended up buying a variety of texturing punches over the years ... without actually learning to use them properly. So, tooling designs and instruction would be a great addition for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted February 4 15 minutes ago, Steelart999 said: tend to want to use the natural patterns of exotics on the items I'm making, I generally like to "mix em up" with various exotic ACCENTS. I have made full snakeskin belts, but prefer to recess it or inlay it so the scales don't flake. Just one example of some issues that can arise with exotics. Somewhere along the line "prints' became widely used, but I aint really a fan there. Gona use fake gator, might as well use fake cow. IN the gallery some pics of various 'stuff' got added time to time, like such as ... Python Teju lizard Ostrich leg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steelart999 Report post Posted February 7 When you attach thin exotics to the 7/8 leather, do you glue the entire surface or just the area inside the stitch line? How to you edge finish the thin exotic leathers? Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DieselTech Report post Posted February 7 On 2/4/2024 at 10:15 AM, JLSleather said: I generally like to "mix em up" with various exotic ACCENTS. I have made full snakeskin belts, but prefer to recess it or inlay it so the scales don't flake. Just one example of some issues that can arise with exotics. Somewhere along the line "prints' became widely used, but I aint really a fan there. Gona use fake gator, might as well use fake cow. IN the gallery some pics of various 'stuff' got added time to time, like such as ... Python Teju lizard Ostrich leg I'm curious how hard that teju lizard was to work with? Is it kinda scaly & hard to punch your stitching punches thru. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted February 10 On 2/7/2024 at 7:10 AM, Steelart999 said: When you attach thin exotics to the 7/8 leather, do you glue the entire surface or just the area inside the stitch line? How to you edge finish the thin exotic leathers? Thanks not sure i'm gittin yer question here.if it's under the exotic, it's glued completely. done differently one project to the next sometimes. In these examples, the pocket holster lizard panel was glued to the flesh side of a cowhide, and then together glued and sewn to the main body. That the question or somethin' else? On 2/7/2024 at 9:40 AM, DieselTech said: I'm curious how hard that teju lizard was to work with? Is it kinda scaly & hard to punch your stitching punches thru. Thanks. I haven't had any issues with it at all. The small size of the scales lets it bend a pretty tight curve. It's machine sewn, so maybe that makes a difference? I do not like hole punches - too much chance for them to walk on you, or angle the wrong way coming out the back, or tear the leather on the way out (all of which I have had happen in the past). So, either machine stitch, or I have been known to put a machine needle in a drill press and "poke" the holes. SOME exotics you can get away with marking with an overstitch wheel and then using an awl, but not too many (exotics) work that well like that. But teju isn't armadillo so it aint too bad. It doesn't "burnish" in the condition shown, so I taper it to almost feather edges on the back side before gluing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steelart999 Report post Posted February 10 16 hours ago, JLSleather said: not sure i'm gittin yer question here.if it's under the exotic, it's glued completely. done differently one project to the next sometimes. In these examples, the pocket holster lizard panel was glued to the flesh side of a cowhide, and then together glued and sewn to the main body. That the question or somethin' else? Again, newbie here, but I'd read/watched vids where glue between two layers was not/should not be applied along the stitch line in order to avoid pulling the glue up into the stitch line. And, to avoid gumming up the sewing machine. That was what I was attempting to ask about. It seems that you in fact do apply glue to the entire mating surfaces . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted February 10 4 hours ago, Steelart999 said: Again, newbie here, but I'd read/watched vids where glue between two layers was not/should not be applied along the stitch line in order to avoid pulling the glue up into the stitch line. And, to avoid gumming up the sewing machine. That was what I was attempting to ask about. It seems that you in fact do apply glue to the entire mating surfaces . theyzz DEFINITELY glue under muh needles In leather, yer fixina find a WHIOOLE BUNCH o' fellas determined ta tell ya they got the "real" way ta do it. This was the reason for my "fade" video... they was fellas makin' HOUR LONG videos about that same thing, many of them claimin' they 'invented' that look. ALL of that was RIDICULOUS, so I showed how that kin be done in about 3 minutes once you got yer stuff ready. Tell a story while yer doin it, STILL only take 3 mins to paint the holster and mag carrier. Some fellas gonna tell ya ya gotta stand on yer left foot facin' east to sew leather, er whatever they makin' up this week I suppose you could - theoretically - get some glue on yer needle if you CAKED IT ON THICK, but I have no idea how a guycould git glue up in the machine Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steelart999 Report post Posted February 10 All I have to say is ... lovin' the honesty here !!! It is always hard to wade through all the "help" one gets when starting on new projects / hobbies. Thanks for being of real help; you've demonstrated that many, many times. I'm all about not learning everything the "hard" way, but relying on the generosity of those like yourself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayner Report post Posted February 11 I use Barge Cement, I have a Cowboy 3200 and I have never even noticed any glue residue on the needle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
