Holster Patterns

[Steelart999]

2 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

What kind of holsters and sheathes and how many? with a belt? lined? western? concealed? small knives? large guns?  there are many variables IMO lol I buy sides so I have my bases covered and I found out over the years that I can make other stuff too. 

Well, my plan was for about 15 Pancake or similar holsters by the time I'm done.  Likely for Glock, S&W Shield and Sig 320-ish.  Sheaths, hmmm, probably 6 to 8 of about 4"-8" length (medium knives).  About 2-4 belts of 1-1/2 x 38".  

So ... are leather sides about equivalent to shoulder leather?  That was the primary question, i.e., to use shoulder or side leather for holsters.  I don't know if one stretches more or has other properties where one is better than the other for holsters.

[chuck123wapati]

47 minutes ago, Steelart999 said:

Well, my plan was for about 15 Pancake or similar holsters by the time I'm done.  Likely for Glock, S&W Shield and Sig 320-ish.  Sheaths, hmmm, probably 6 to 8 of about 4"-8" length (medium knives).  About 2-4 belts of 1-1/2 x 38".  

So ... are leather sides about equivalent to shoulder leather?  That was the primary question, i.e., to use shoulder or side leather for holsters.  I don't know if one stretches more or has other properties where one is better than the other for holsters.

A side has one shoulder so yea its equivalent i guess the butt is thicker if I remember right the belly is loose, stretchy and thin. Most folks buy shoulders because they don't want to pay for belly leather.

You can use either, the side will have some belly that is not good for strength but you can use it for linings and such. sometimes the shoulders have more fat lines. I don't think a double shoulder would build all of those and a side would be iffy too. my recommendation is to buy a side that way you can learn about the whole thing at once and how to use it. I feel you will need more than one of either so learn with the side first, the belly isn't a waste it is good practice stuff and for other things as well.

But remember your sheaths , belts  and holsters may need to be different thicknesses and that's the next quandary.

[Steelart999]

18 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

A side has one shoulder so yea its equivalent i guess the butt is thicker if I remember right the belly is loose, stretchy and thin. Most folks buy shoulders because they don't want to pay for belly leather.

You can use either, the side will have some belly that is not good for strength but you can use it for linings and such. sometimes the shoulders have more fat lines. I don't think a double shoulder would build all of those and a side would be iffy too. my recommendation is to buy a side that way you can learn about the whole thing at once and how to use it. I feel you will need more than one of either so learn with the side first, the belly isn't a waste it is good practice stuff and for other things as well.

But remember your sheaths , belts  and holsters may need to be different thicknesses and that's the next quandary.

Okay, that makes sense.  I'm still checking out the various leather "vendors" and HO seems to be my best bet at this point. Geez, this forum has a lot of data to plow through!!!  Thanks for your input Chuck

[JLSleather]

6 hours ago, Steelart999 said:

I've looked and searched (maybe not to well), but didn't find a consensus on leather for holsters / sheaths.  I'm not talking about weight or source.  What would be the best for holsters, shoulder or side?  It seems like shoulder, but I've seen on the Weaver sight that they tie "Holster" and "Side" together.

Maybe a basic question ... but I am yet another newbie to leatherworking.

Either will work. Sides or shoulders, you want to stay away from the "spongey" bits at the edges.  As a rule, sides will be more money, but end up being more economical cut as more of the leather is useable.  Actually, i buy BACKS, which is just the side with the belly removed.  And I do not shop at Weaver, ever.

[wayner]

JLS where are you buying your leather from these days? 

[JLSleather]

1 hour ago, Steelart999 said:

So ... are leather sides about equivalent to shoulder leather?  That was the primary question, i.e., to use shoulder or side leather for holsters. 

Again - the BACK is the best part of the leather, all else equal.  If you take a cowhide, cut it in half lengthwise, that's 2 "sides" (obviously).
The "sides' include the BACK, SHOULDER, and BELLY.

I have made MANY belts from "double shoudlers", some folks really like the natural "wrinkles" prominent in double shoulders.  Good leather will allow for this to be done and still get a FIRM belt.  Still, BACKS are the preferred cut.

Belly leather is okay for linings, and not much else (saddle boys n girls have a few more uses for it, TBH).  Glued in and sewn in, this leather is usually fine for "thickening" up a belt or for smoothing the inside of something like a case or bag.

Single shoulders - which you'd get by cutting  the top end off of a BACK - just have too much waste for me.  

Anyway, here's a pic might show you some info.

A cowhide "side".  One side of the whole skin.

This is a "back".. the side with the belly removed. 

And this "back" includes a "single bend" and a "single shoulder. 

Or, cut the double shoudler off before cutting the sides

[Steelart999]

Maybe not the "right" section for this question ...  I've read multiple posts about using a creaser instead of a groover for stitch lines to avoid cutting off the top layer of the leather.  What is the "typical" spacing for a creaser (or groover for that matter) on holsters/sheaths/belts, i.e., the offset from the edge?  Any leads on the sources for creasers?  For the amount of pieces I'll likely create, I assume that a manual (vs electric) creaser is suitable.  For that matter, I'm a metal worker (knifemaker), so I can probably make one if I knew the proper configuration/profile.

Thanks to all 

Edited November 27, 2023 by Steelart999

[Mablung]

26 minutes ago, Steelart999 said:

Maybe not the "right" section for this question ...  I've read multiple posts about using a creaser instead of a groover for stitch lines to avoid cutting off the top layer of the leather.  What is the "typical" spacing for a creaser (or groover for that matter) on holsters/sheaths/belts, i.e., the offset from the edge?  Any leads on the sources for creasers?  For the amount of pieces I'll likely create, I assume that a manual (vs electric) creaser is suitable.  For that matter, I'm a metal worker (knifemaker), so I can probably make one if I knew the proper configuration/profile.

Thanks to all 

From what I have read on here, the general consensus seems to be that you're not going to lose appreciable strength by cutting a thin strip of grain out of the top of a 6/7 oz. piece of leather.  Groover vs. creaser seems more important, as a matter of protecting leather integrity, only with thin pieces.  That said, some prefer the aesthetics of a crease over a groove, and/or just don't want to remove any material at all.  Judging by others' pictures, I think the stitches tend to settle into the leather a little bit differently.  I use a groover because that's what I started with and thus what I have, but creases look nice, too.  I don't do much in thinner leather so far, working mostly with 6/7 oz. for holsters and knife sheaths and pieces needing similarly thick leather, but I'll probably get a creaser at some point anyway.

[JLSleather]

On 11/27/2023 at 8:23 AM, Steelart999 said:

Maybe not the "right" section for this question ...  I've read multiple posts about using a creaser instead of a groover for stitch lines to avoid cutting off the top layer of the leather.  What is the "typical" spacing for a creaser (or groover for that matter) on holsters/sheaths/belts, i.e., the offset from the edge?  Any leads on the sources for creasers?  For the amount of pieces I'll likely create, I assume that a manual (vs electric) creaser is suitable.  For that matter, I'm a metal worker (knifemaker), so I can probably make one if I knew the proper configuration/profile.

Thanks to all 

I like a creaser. I started out with a groover because Al Stohlman's books said so.  And I still think they have their place in saddles and other heavy work.  But for most stuff, I like a crease.

Distance, or spacing, is set by thickness of the stuff i'm sewing (also from Al, actually).  Most holsters and belts for them are a "strong 1/8th" in from the edge, and it would be common to find me doing a double stitch line with the same spacing between lines.

The idea is to recess the thread a bit, protect it from buffing/fraying.  If you're using heavy thread, the groover makes sense.  But most of what I use is 277 machine thread, so not really necesary - the dent from a creaser is enough.

[Steelart999]

Jeff, thank you for that feedback.  I guess I've been leaning towards the concept of not cutting the surface layer, although what little I've done was with a groover. Do you recall the make of the creasers you've preferred?

[Steelart999]

I have a Cowboy Outlaw coming which includes some 277 thread.  I've repeated seen the suggestion to use 207 thread on the bobbin.  Is that a good option for this machine for sewing holsters, belts and sheaths, or should I just move forward with just the 277?

[Frodo]

I have tried using different size threads

and I find it is a total pita

sometimes you have to flip your work over and sew from the back to the front

having different threads causes you to stop and switch bobbin and retread machiner

[JLSleather]

On 12/10/2023 at 9:13 AM, Steelart999 said:

I have a Cowboy Outlaw coming which includes some 277 thread.  I've repeated seen the suggestion to use 207 thread on the bobbin.  Is that a good option for this machine for sewing holsters, belts and sheaths, or should I just move forward with just the 277?

I like 277 over and 207 under.  I've tried other combinations, but I like this one.  Yes, for holsters, belts, sheaths.

On 11/28/2023 at 5:25 PM, Steelart999 said:

Jeff, thank you for that feedback.  I guess I've been leaning towards the concept of not cutting the surface layer, although what little I've done was with a groover. Do you recall the make of the creasers you've preferred?

Doesn't matter, long as it's smooth faced.  I've seen some that were plated. Sounds nice, anti-corrosion and all that. Until the plating chips, and then you're just scarring everything you try to crease.

[JLSleather]

Uploading a couple NEW patterns over there JLSbydesign - Etsy
Glock 17/19 double mag is on and ready.

Bond Arms Bullpup 9mm mag ('pancake').

Sig P938 double mag hi angle (guy wanted it designed to carry almost in back).

 

[JLSleather]

added Taurus G2C mag (single) and S/W SHield 9/40 double mag

[JLSleather]

Added pattern for single mag carrier, fits G43x, G48

[JLSleather]

anybody making pocket holsters these days?  Would like to get some patterns uploaded to Cutesy, but need to lnk a bit of hardware for some.  I mean like these....

[JLSleather]

Somebody got a xdm .40 print this and lemme know 'f its close..

XDM40sketch.pdf

[Steelart999]

6 hours ago, JLSleather said:

Somebody got a xdm .40 print this and lemme know 'f its close..

XDM40sketch.pdf 11.45 kB · 2 downloads

I'll check against my XDM .40 later this morning and get back to you.

[JLSleather]

5 hours ago, Steelart999 said:

I'll check against my XDM .40 later this morning and get back to you.

cool - let us know here how close this is, so other folk know it's good to use

 

[Steelart999]

It looks like all the dimensions are good. 

My XDM-40 has a longer barrel, but other than that ... looks good. 

Pictures below were taken by iPhone from about 4-foot, so parallax is an issue that makes it look like the gun is larger in some images, but it is not.  It's an artifact of taking a picture from a fairly close distance.

 

Edited January 13 by Steelart999

[JLSleather]

thanks

the drawing was done from a 3.8" bbl (yers prolly 4.5"?) and withut the add-ons.

[Steelart999]

Yeah, 4.5 barrel and I have a light attachment that I removed while taking the pictures.  Good job on the drawing; Matched extremely well.

[Steelart999]

I just completed my first pancake holster using a JLS Leather pattern.  This was my second piece using my "new" Cowboy Outlaw on two layers of 7/8-oz Herman Oak with an elephant overlay. 

I built a vacuum press which worked fairly well.  The gun mold was a P80 Glock 19 and it was a bit tough to get it to stretch the leather enough to fit in ... especially around the trigger area.  Tight!

I definitely messed up the leather surface through all my handling, so that is one area for me to improve.  Edging is just so-so ... another improvement area.  Any critique is appreciated.

 

[JLSleather]

40 minutes ago, Steelart999 said:

first pancake holster using a JLS Leather pattern

I like the design

That DOES look snug.  Part of that is likely the full-length site channel (which I generally don't do) though teh Glock is clearly a newer design as well.  GOOD news is, you'll know where you want the next one narrower, or wider, or looser ... etc.  Your leather, at least on the back panel, looks like it may be a bit dry (lacking oils)?  Still, you pulled off the look - how does it carry?  Pulls okay?

Cant be sure from the pic if your thread is a bit smaller than I generally use, or could be just the geometry of the needle you used causing that look.  I like the LOOK of 277 thread in a holster, but I'm confident that 207 is certainly enough strength.

Is that elephant?