Returnee With Questions

[splinters]

After a long absence, and I mean a long absence, I have returned to the craft and need to ask some questions concerning basic tools I should purchase and I hope you all will bear with me.

The first question concerns which mallet to select by head material, shape and weight.

Those many years ago I had a rawhide mallet that seemed to serve me well but on studying Springfield Leather's online store, saw their ad here so decided I would start with them as a supporter of the forum, I discovered a number of possible choices. I like the shape of the Barry King Maul but for starters I may select something a little less expensive in the rawhide or poly head. I see that some of these can be selected by weight and there I don't have a clue. There seems to be more selection today than in my yester year.

I sure would appreciate any suggestions or thoughts you all may wish to share.

Thanks,

Pat

P.S. What brought me back happen in this last year and is the fault on one T.C. Albert and his book "Recreating the 18th Century Hunting Pouch". I followed his step by step to make a replica of Albert's North Hampton pouch . That really got the fires started again.

My icon is a photo of my finished pouch. Fun!

[Bob Blea]

Welcome back splinters. You are right there are a lot of options to choose from. I started off with a rawhide mallet but once I went to a poly head maul I never looked back. I have Barry King ones and I would recommend starting off with something in the 12-14 oz. range if your just going to be doing standard tooling. If you are interested in large geometrics like saddle sized box stamps then you are going to need something heavier to get a good impression, like 20 oz. or larger depending on the size of your stamp. I find the maul is much easier on my wrist and arm that the mallet.

Also, my mauls are straight sided, not tapered. I was once advised that the tapered mauls made it too easy to rest your arm on the bench and cause you to be sloppy, so I've always just stuck with the straight sided mauls. A lot of people use the tapered ones and do good work, so there may not be much to that claim.

Just my 2 cents,

Bob

[splinters]

Thanks for that Bob, that's good working info. I'll be doing primarily belts and thinking of starting by trying my hand at learning basket weave stamps. So, now I obviously need to locate somewhere I can purchase a marble slab of adequate size.

Thanks for the welcome back and info again,

Pat

[Bob Blea]

A lot of people have good luck going to kitchen and bathroom countertop dealers and getting their broken counters or cutouts, often for free. Also, any company that makes monuments or headstones will likely have some mistakes they will be willing to part with for cheap.

[terrypen]

I purchased a beginner's kit from Springfield and it was a good start, but there are things in there that I haven't used. I bought the one that came with the granite slab (pricey to ship) and later found a local countertop/kitchen installer that gave me access to their scrap bin. I got another 12" x 12" piece of granite that is cut on 3 sides and I need to get a blade to cut the side that is not cut and they even gave it to me for free.

I also bought a 16oz Barry King maul, and it feels amazing in my hand compared to the mallet that came in the kit. I also purchased a couple of different mallet/tools from Harbor Freight. I got a dead blow hammer and use it for stuff that might damage my BK prematurely. They also have a teflon(looking) small hammer/mallet.

If I were to be looking for a maul now, it would still be between the BK and Maul Master found on Weaver Leather Supply.

Take it for what you paid for this advice.. as I am a newbie but enjoying the craft.

[splinters]

Thanks gents for posting your info about the mauls and where to search for a tooling slab. Makes good sense.

BTW Bob, took a look at C and B Leather. Very nice work.

Edited June 12, 2015 by splinters

[splinters]

Well I've decided to get the Barry King small round maul. I do have a dead blow hammer that I plan to use for things like punching holes and only using the Barry King for stamp work.

Thanks again gents.

P.S. I did notice that Barry King also has a swivel knife........... hum.

Edited June 12, 2015 by splinters

[Bob Blea]

Barry King makes a very good swivel knife. That is a good one to start with and you can upgrade later if you decide you need something fancy.

thanks for the compliment on my work too!

[splinters]

Your welcome Bob. Thanks for your comment concerning the Barry King swivel knife. I don't know that I would want something fancy later since it is function and quality I'm more interested in when it comes to tools. Going through some of the few tools I have left from my early try at leather work I did find my old 60's era, IIRC, Tandy swivel knife. Is in good shape. It has a 1/2" barrel with two knifes one of which is a 3/8" and the other a 1/2". Anyway, I'm considering the Barry King swivel knife with the 3/8" barrel and a 1/4" thin blade as a starter and would like to hear any thoughts on that.

I also think I would like one of their basket stamps plus a border stamp to go with that for a belt once I know which of the designs in those two stamps I would like and the sizes I should chose. Finding some info, book, articles, or threads here on the net, related to doing basket weave designed belts that may get me off to a good start would be a big help.

[splinters]

Do any of you use a weight on your project as a third hand as you do tooling? If so, would you tell me what you like to use?

Thanks

Edited June 16, 2015 by splinters

[Bob Blea]

I use them and I think a lot of people do. Mine is a leather bag filled with BB's. Lead shot works better and I have seen people take an actual block of lead and wrap it in leather. Usually it's just something you make from scrap.

[splinters]

I did find this small bag leather that I used for another purpose and thinking, after trimming the end with the holes, I would see how much weight using #8 shot I could get into it and then hand stitch closed the open end. A starter weight maybe plus some hand stitching practice. (Also wanted to try attaching a photo to see how that goes.)

[splinters]

I've started working on a plain hide belt and think I've messed in my nest already. Yesterday I soak the buckle end of the belt so I could form the belt around the buckle tongue and avoid splitting the leather. After soaking the leather for approx. 2 hr. before forming and then dry the belt over night I have a dis-coloration at the point on the belt blank where it exited the water. It is still a little damp in that area. Though a little disappointed at this it is my "lets start learning some basics again old man".

Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. My intent is to finish the belt with neatsfoot oil, no tooling.

Edited June 23, 2015 by splinters

[Bob Blea]

Hi Splinters,

I think this may be pretty easy to fix. Try dipping the whole belt in water and letting it dry completely. That might blend the water mark out enough to not be noticeable. You could also try cleaning it with Oxalic acid (wood bleach or called Barkeepers Friend in many hardware stores) once you get the whole thing wet. That can clean a lot of stains out of the leather.

And you don't need to soak the leather in water that long. Just a brief dip would usually do it.

[splinters]

Thank's Bob. Just looked under the sink in the kitchen because I had a can of the powdered Barkeepers Friend down there for cleaning my stainless steal skillet. Can't seem to locate it right now...... Is that the stuff?

Thanks again.

Edited June 23, 2015 by splinters

[JLSleather]

When I bend a belt over like that, I just put a little pressure on each side -- finger and a thumb - and them add water to the grain side with my index finger on teh other hand. Slow, steady pressure centered on the slot (if there is one) and just "wipe" a wet finger across the face.

Oh, and I use a rawhide mallet -- Garland 11 oz.

[splinters]

Hi Bob,

Well, it looks like the next step is to try the Barkeepers Friend. I'm glad I made this error because its one that will stick in my mind from now on.

[Bob Blea]

If you have lemon juice handy that MIGHT help but I think the Barkeepers Friend is going to be your best bet. And if that doesn't work, there is always dyeing.

[splinters]

Hello JLS,

Thanks for joining in and adding you information about the wetting and the mallet.

One thing I've learned for sure, and I'm old enough I shouldn't have to relearn it, is that if you don't know what your doing ask before proceeding.

On to trying the Oxalic acid treatment. This is all good experience for me.

[JLSleather]

That's the good thing about belts -- no matter HOW bad you mistake it.. fella's never out more'n $10

[splinters]

Alright Bob, I do have some Realemon in the fridg and I found the Barkeepers Friend. This gets more interesting as we go. The belt may end up looking like it is well used from the past and will fit right in for what started this whole thing. Another story for another time..... LOL

[splinters]

Bob, dying maybe the final choice. I happen to have some dark brown left over from the 18th Century Pouch project.

[Bob Blea]

After you use the Oxalic acid give the belt time to dry before doing anything else. I've noticed that sometimes marks take a while to disappear. They dont' go away instantly.

[splinters]

After you use the Oxalic acid give the belt time to dry before doing anything else. I've noticed that sometimes marks take a while to disappear. They dont' go away instantly.

Question on applying a finish to the belt be it Neatsfoot oil or dye. Should it be applied to both sides of the belt?

I let the belt dry all night and the stain from my over soak is still there. In the future I will remember to dampen and not soak......... Doh!

When I showed the stained belt to my wife last night and considering what it is to be used for ( a Rendezvous Muzzleloader shoot this Saturday and they request you wear clothing of the period if possible ) she favors leaving the stains and applying the Neatsfoot oil so the stains may still be seen though possibly muted to give the belt some age. Since she is the chief Quartermaster and has gone to the trouble of sewing a period shirt for me for this event I have concurred. I shall stain a scrap of leather to test how effective the Barkeepers Friend is though so all is not lost on the help you all provided in trying to help me correct my situation.

So, the finish will be Neatsfoot oil after burnishing the edges and do I cover boths sides of the belt with the oil?

Thanks again for all the help. It is much appreciated.

Edited June 24, 2015 by splinters

[mlapaglia]

Just lightly coat the smooth side. Let it sit over night and give it another LIGHT coat. Too much oil just makes the belt leave oil on your pants. The oil will spread to the back side as it sets over night.