Returnee With Questions

[splinters]

When I spray resolene, or any other acrylic, I clean the airbrush with a mixture of water, a little white vinegar, and a few drops of dish detergent. That's a formula that somebody here on LWN suggested and it seems to work well ( I apologize, I don't remember who) . I follow up by disassembling the airbrush and cleaning it in an ultrasonic cleaner ... The ultrasonic is probably overkill, but hey. I already had the cleaner, might as well use for something other than cleaning jewelry once a year !

Bill

Thanks the reply Bill. Why not use your ultrasonic cleaner too. Some of these air brushes are not what you would call inexpensive. Sounds like some quality insurance to me.

[JLSleather]

Hi JLS,

My belt blank cost more than twice that so would you mind letting me know where I'm going wrong....... Lol

Thanks,

Pat

I buy backs (side with belly removed). These generally run in the $180 range after shipping. But from that I can cut off the shoulder for holsters (8-10 of those) and still cut belts 1.5" wide and end up with about 18 of those (give or take two, depending...). Making each strip $10 (ish), after shipping.

If you're going with solid colors, black / brown / tan / russet / chestnut ... and some others, I recommend W/C drum dyed backs (the prices mentioned are for theirs).

[Geneva]

I would not use Neetsfoot oil on a belt it is not a sealer and it can cause the leather to stretch. I use a tallow concotion for my belts the leather does not loose oil when it is tanned it looses fats the tallow helps restore some of it.

I use bees wax on the edges after dyeing and burnish of course.

I use Resolene to seal my finished belt.

Good luck.

[mlapaglia]

There are many ways to accomplish the same thing. I always use NeetsFoot oil on my belts, in fact all my leather. Avoid heavy coats when applying. 2 light coats are better. I have never had a problem with the leather stretching due to the oil. Maybe over oiling might cause this. Something is needed to replenish the oils/fats in the leather that are lost during the making of the belt, wetting the leather, etc. NeetsFoot or Olive oil are what I use.

FYI, I never use Neetsfoot COMPOUND on my leather products. Neetsfoot compound contains mineral oil or other petroleum-based material that is not good for the leather.

The EVOO (Extra Virgin Olive Oil) vs Neetsfoot oil vs a lot of other stuff was covered here in this post. The thing to remember is to use whatever you do use sparingly. Oils will spread as they sit so only cover one side with a light coat. Let that soak in over night and then put another light coat on and let it soak in again. I use resoline on my belts most of the times and it works great. I also use a mixture of Neetsfoot oil, bees wax and carnuba wax as a finish that works really well also. The only reason I do not do it all the time is that it is more labor intensive to apply so I use it for the more expensive things I make. Part of the justification for charging more for the product is the hand rubbed finish. YMMV

Edited June 28, 2015 by mlapaglia

[splinters]

I buy backs (side with belly removed). These generally run in the $180 range after shipping. But from that I can cut off the shoulder for holsters (8-10 of those) and still cut belts 1.5" wide and end up with about 18 of those (give or take two, depending...). Making each strip $10 (ish), after shipping.

If you're going with solid colors, black / brown / tan / russet / chestnut ... and some others, I recommend W/C drum dyed backs (the prices mentioned are for theirs).

Thanks JLS. You've added to my education. Much appreciated.

[splinters]

There are many ways to accomplish the same thing. I always use NeetsFoot oil on my belts, in fact all my leather. Avoid heavy coats when applying. 2 light coats are better. I have never had a problem with the leather stretching due to the oil. Maybe over oiling might cause this. Something is needed to replenish the oils/fats in the leather that are lost during the making of the belt, wetting the leather, etc. NeetsFoot or Olive oil are what I use.

FYI, I never use Neetsfoot COMPOUND on my leather products. Neetsfoot compound contains mineral oil or other petroleum-based material that is not good for the leather.

The EVOO (Extra Virgin Olive Oil) vs Neetsfoot oil vs a lot of other stuff was covered here in this post. The thing to remember is to use whatever you do use sparingly. Oils will spread as they sit so only cover one side with a light coat. Let that soak in over night and then put another light coat on and let it soak in again. I use resoline on my belts most of the times and it works great. I also use a mixture of Neetsfoot oil, bees wax and carnuba wax as a finish that works really well also. The only reason I do not do it all the time is that it is more labor intensive to apply so I use it for the more expensive things I make. Part of the justification for charging more for the product is the hand rubbed finish. YMMV

Thanks for your information. The thread you provide was an interesting read. I have a small stack of notes from that read that I'll add to my shop notebook now. That notebook is beginning to be a treasure.

Pat

Edited July 1, 2015 by splinters

[splinters]

Found the following leather tool. It was in with some of my original leather tools I still have. Is it call an Edge Beader by any chance and how is it used?

[billybopp]

Looks like an edge beader to me. One "blade" follows down the edge of the leather, the other cuts a fine decorative line down the face of the leather.

Bill

[splinters]

Thanks Bill. I was playing around with some scape in that manner. Does cut a nice line.

[splinters]

What would be the minimum weight of leather a beginner should attempt to carve and/or stamp?

Thanks