Looking For Advice On Specific Models Of Sewing Machines

[alfredleatherworks]

I am about to start training with a local leather crafter who is going to teach me how to make leather garments. I'm very excited about this! He's given me some research to do on equipment, and I was hoping people here might be able to help me out.

I am trying to figure out what type of sewing machine I should get for my new shop. Previously, I have always hand-sewen things, but that is no-longer an option. I've been researching companies like Consew, Cowboy, Jujuki, Pfaff, and Singer, but I am having a hard time understanding the pros and cons of the many different machines offered by each company (much less how they compare to competing company's equivalents).

I have also spent a LOT of time reading the threads in this directory. It has been very informative, and I am glad I thought to come here and check out the forum.

What I am hoping to get out of this thread-posting is a recommendataion of specific models of sewing machines that I can research and compare to each other to help me make a selection. I'm feeling a bit too overwhelmed with all of the info out there and I'm hoping some of you can help me focus my search a bit.

I am primarily going to be working with light-weight garment and light-weight chap leathers, though occasionally I may work with something slightly heavier. What are some good models of sewing machines that YOU use and would recommend that would work with these types of leather?

Thank you in advance, both for taking the time to read this long post as well as to reply. I look forward to hearing from you all!

Respectfully,

Paul

[Wishful]

I am certainly not a sewing machine expert and there are a lot of variables to what you do and of course budget makes a big difference but for used , a singer 111w155 or consew 206rb are popular. The consew has reverse and a larger bobbin. You will also want a servo motor to slow it down.

For new, contact the vendors advertising at the top of the page.

Edited June 21, 2015 by Wishful

[alfredleatherworks]

I've seen the Consew 206RB show up in a lot of conversations on the forum, and I'm currently researaching it to see if it will fit my needs. I also keep seeing posts about servo motors and I'm not sure what they are (in relation to a sewing machine) and why they are needed.

[Wishful]

Most older and a lot of newer sewing machines come with clutch motors and go very fast. For leather, it is easier to sew more precisely with a servo motor since you can turn down the speed significantly. Industrial sewing machines are really 3 components, a table, the sewing head and a motor and can all be swapped out. Look on YouTube for videos of sewing with a servo.

[Wizcrafts]

All your work can be sewn on most any upholstery grade walking foot machine. The variables you will encounter are where it was made, what quality assurance and seller's assistance you will get, the condition of the moving parts on a used machine, the position and size of the bobbin, type of presser feet, whether it is compound or dual feed, the type of motor and size of the motor pulley.

For instance, people sewing cloth and banners may prefer a machine that has teeth on the presser feet to add clawing power to bulky projects. Folks sewing veg-tan leather with a smooth grain side won't want that kind of machine because it ruins the top appearance with tooth marks. They will want a compound feed walking foot machine with smooth presser feet. They can always buy a set of feet with teeth for slippery vinyl jobs. But, it is more expensive and sometimes impossible to find smooth feet for the dual feed machines built for claw feet.

Upholstery shops tend to set up their machines to sew at the machine's speed limit. For them, time is money. They use clutch motors with very large pulleys to drive the machine at the same speed or even faster than the motor! These motors spin at either 1725 or 3450 rpm (if memory serves me well at my age). Geared 1:1 (same size pulley on motor and machine), a 1725 rpm motor will drive a machine at 28 stitches per second. That is fine for sewing tarps and long couch covers, including upholstery grade leather. All the sewing is along a defined seam on the edges and an edge guide helps ensure a straight stitch line.

People sewing smaller projects with sharp turns and intricate patterns, or sewing leather that is denser or harder than garment or light chap will want to sew much slower and need more precise control than one typically gets by "feathering" a clutch motor. Thus, motor manufactures began building electronically controlled motors we call servo motors. Our dealers who advertise here have chosen motors that work best with the machines they sell and warranty. These servo motors have a means of setting the upper speed limit to whatever you are comfortable sewing with. Most are still powerful enough at the slowest speed setting to power a walking foot machine at 1 stitch per second, or close to it. Some dealers will install a 3:1 speed reducer between the motor and machine to give the sewer more torque and very slow speeds, well under 1 per second. This comes in handy for pattern sewing, or penetrating hard leather. It also causes the machine to lose top end and may only allow 5 or 6 stitches per second at full bore.

As for brands to recommend, I say the made in Japan Juki and Seiko, followed by new Chinese clone machines set up and vouched for by our member dealers, followed by a used machine made by Singer, National, Consew, Juki, Adler, or Pfaff. Most old machines lack reverse and may have complicated methods for changing the stitch length.

Beware of the condition of old walking foot machines being sold by upholsterers (or from garage sales). They usually sew at full speed and the machine's clearances may be very sloppy. Replacing worn out parts is time consuming and can be costly. Also, new aftermarket replacement parts may not fit properly in an old machine.

Since you mentioned Singer as one of the brands you are interested in, you need to know that they are no longer in production by the Singer Sewing Machine company (for a long time). You will either get a used or rebuilt machine or a knockoff relabeled with Singer decals.

Edited June 21, 2015 by Wizcrafts

[Art]

Since you are in San Antonio, I suggest you call ahead and go to Yoakum Texas to check out Campbell-Randall sewing machine company. They are a provider and refurbisher of all kinds of leather machinery and can probably fill in a lot of gaps in your knowledge. If you get one of their rebuilt machines, it will be as good or better than new.

Art

[Colt W Knight]

the Consew 206-rb is a very nice machine, and built like a tank. I use mine all the time. Consew also makes the 227-r which is the same machine but with a cylinder arm for sewing purses and such. I don't have experience with other machines.Parts and accessories are readily available.

Edited June 21, 2015 by Colt W Knight

[alfredleatherworks]

Thank you all for replying! And @Wizcrafts, WOW! I've read your other posts on sewing machines, and now this post...is there anything regarding sewing leather you don't know? Lol! I'm very impressed by the knowledge here on the forum, and I am very thankful that everyone is as helpful as they are. I'm going to talk to my mentor about the Consew 206RB, as well as take a look at what Campbell-Randall might have to offer.

Since there are different bobbin sizes, is there a particular size I should be looking for? The bobbin size has more to do with the thread I use, right? Not the thickness/toughness of the leather?

[Art]

Bobbin size is sometimes a consideration with cylinder arm machines. Unless you are doing some small or tight clearance application, get the biggest bobbin you can. Don't go out and buy a Campbell or Randall just to get a big bobbin, there are other reasons for buying those machines in addition to their large bobbins.

Art

[Wizcrafts]

Thank you all for replying! And @Wizcrafts, WOW! I've read your other posts on sewing machines, and now this post...is there anything regarding sewing leather you don't know? Lol! I'm very impressed by the knowledge here on the forum, and I am very thankful that everyone is as helpful as they are. I'm going to talk to my mentor about the Consew 206RB, as well as take a look at what Campbell-Randall might have to offer.

Since there are different bobbin sizes, is there a particular size I should be looking for? The bobbin size has more to do with the thread I use, right? Not the thickness/toughness of the leather?

The bigger the bobbin, the more thread it can hold and the more stuff you can sew between bobbin changes. It's that simple. The typical large bobbin used in modern machines (e.g. Consew 206RB-5) is called an "M" style bobbin. It holds about 50% more thread than a typical Class 15, or Singer G type bobbin and even more than a Class 66 bobbin. Where this really comes into play is if you are sewing with #138 thread in the bobbin. With an M bobbin, you may be able to sew 10 to 12 belts along the edge, depending on the thickness and overall length (this is from memory and may be overzealous).

Then, there is the Juki LU bobbin, which holds double the amount of thread as a standard industrial bobbin. It is about 1/8" larger in diameter than an M bobbin and a little taller. Some Juki machines have the double capacity hooks needed to use these bobbins. These hooks are more expensive than M size hooks.

The size of the hook and bobbin determine the dimensions of the business end of a cylinder arm machine. Obviously, the large bobbins take up more space than those half their diameter. So, you end up with a fatter left side of the arm. If the diameter of the arm must be as small as possible, to sew inside your important items, then a smaller bobbin machine will be required, with its lower thread holding capacity. In these instances, using a smaller bobbin thread (e.g. #69 or #92) lets you sew farther before a bobbin change.

[alfredleatherworks]

OK, thanks for the additional info! Given the expense of a good sewing machine I'm trying to make sure I've done my research right the first time around. You all have helped me out a lot!

[Darren Brosowski]

Seiko CW-8B is essentially the cylinder bed version of the 206RB and has more flexibility.

Talk to the dealers about your needs

[alfredleatherworks]

So I've narrowed it down to either the Consew 206-RB or its Juki equivalent (I forget the model number at the moment). There's only a $300 difference between them in price, the Juki being the expensive one at $1700 + tax. It's for the machine head, servo motor, and table, so a pretty good deal for either of them I think.

I am planning on purchasing through a local dealer who been in business for over 30 years, and seemed to be very knowledgeable (and friendly) when I met with them yesterday. We talked about what I need and compared machines against my needs and budget. I'm also happy to work with them since their technician can fix my machine, if I'm dumb enough to break it, without me having to crate it and ship it out for repairs.

I'm going to get a final opinion from my mentor this afternoon, and then go buy myself the most expensive piece of equipment I've ever purchased (not including my car). I'm excited though. It is one more step towards getting my shop set up, and will be worth the investment in the long run.