Machine Sewing - Top Quality Thread?

[Kamps]

My first post, great to be here!

Much is written already on top notch thread for hand sewing, my question is about machine sewing.

I came across some beautiful messenger bags made with Italian veg tanned leather, such as:

http://www.travelteq.com/All-Leather-Trash/Leather and http://www.barneys.com/boldrini-selleria-double-handle-briefcase-504088446.html

What type of thread are these guys using, you'd say? Nylon, polyester, linen?

[Wizcrafts]

You will have to ask the company what thread they are using, as they are based in Italy. It could be bonded nylon, bonded polyester, polycore, Serifil, Anafil, whatever.

What it is probably not is linen thread, which is either used in hand sewing or needle and awl machines, like the Campbell Randall, or Puritan machines.

[DrmCa]

By comparing diameter of the needle holes, thread and the bag itself I would hazard a guess that it is bonded nylon.

But why are they using such a huge needle with medium size thread is beyond me - it leaves huge holes that look weird.

[Uwe]

My feeling is that it may be less important exactly what type of thread they're using - it's often hard to tell even if you have the piece in your hands and nearly impossible to tell from a photo. What's important to me and what fascinates me about the italian bag is the detail of how the stitch lines are laid out with almost no evidence of where the stitch segments start or end, especially in the handle attachment area. That takes some serious planning and skill to pull off - and some manual finishing of stitch lines; they don't come out of the machine like that.

It's a matter of style and taste, but personally I don't find the thread thickness to be out of proportion with the needle holes - it may have to do with how elastic the leather is to close up the holes again after the stitch is made. It reminds me of my veg tan Bree bag I got when I was in high school some forty years ago. I still have the bag and I'm still in awe of the stitching. The thread on my Bree didn't hold up in some high-wear areas and needs to be fixed, but the stitch holes are perfectly planned out, aligned, and spaced. Thinking about fixing the stitching on my Bree bag is what got me started on leatherworking some two years ago. I still haven't touched the bag for fear of screwing it up, haha. My skills aren't worthy yet.

Edited July 16, 2015 by Uwe

[Darren Brosowski]

Best three threads in order - Serafil, serafil, serafil

[Kamps]

Thanks all for the replies: I did order Serafil no 10 (tex 270) colour 8073 for outerbag and no 20 (tex 135 for innerbag).
Next order I will get the WR (water repellent) given the sales rep explained its handling is even better.

[Darren Brosowski]

Serafil is not as strong as bonded Nylon but has a better feel and inherent UV resistance. I believe that it was designed for sail making and is used in many technical applications.

Alll threads are a compromise but I believe it is the best for leather work

[Art]

Amann makes the best high performance threads I have used. Their marine thread is also excellent. Ditto Kevlar. The only problem I have in the US is finding a distributor for most anything but the Embroidery threads. Anyone have an idea who distributes in the US? I have not found anything over T-70.

Art