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Thinner For Dap Weldwood? All I See Is "cleanup" With Mineral Spirits.


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Posted (edited)

Don-Here's my $.02. When I reached the point in my leather working journey that I started lining belts/holsters I reverted back to my days in the cabinet shop-I spray my contact cement whenever I can. When I can find it I'll use WisonArt spray contact (at one time only WilsonArt laminate distributors sold it but I have found some Home Depots that carry it by the counter tops) but the Loctite or 3M Super 99 I readily find at Home Depot/Lowes works just as well (get the super high strength). I've never had any problems with anything coming apart. For lighter dress belts one coat is fine but on heavy gun belts I'll let the first coat tack up and then give it a second coat. Probably don't need the second coat but what the heck...The only time I ever brushed or rolled contact cement was when I was out in the field and had no other option. Also my Tandy *coughs* glass burnisher works great for pressing the layers together. :taptap:

Edited by Toolster

JW

My sewing machines (until I buy another one):

Cowboy CB3200

Cowboy CB0797

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Just my 2c: you can get acetone and methanol in 1 gal canisters ways cheaper at the industrial cleaning supply or restaurant supply stores.

The janitors use acetone to remove chewing gum from the floors and methanol is used for removing the stickers from glass etc.

Machines: Mitsubishi DB-130 single needle, Kansai Special RX-9803/UTC coverstitch, Union Special 56300F chainstitch, Pfaff 335-17 cylinder arm walking foot, Bonis Type A fur machine, Huji 43-6 patcher, Singer 99 hand cranked, Juki DDL-553 single needle (for sale)

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Very good information. Very good indeed. Thanks. Don

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Posted (edited)

Ok, first what the others have said pretty much gets the job done. I use Weldwood on saddles and most tack. I don't usually thin it, cause I use it fast enough on saddles that it is gone before it starts to get too thick to use, however; occasionally it will sit in the shop long enough to get thick, then I use laquer thinner, which is a mixture of MEK, Acetone, and either Toluene or Naptha. Of course it is nasty stuff, but; then again I have been using it for the best part of 50 years in painting cars and automotive parts and so on and I am still normal (I think! :rofl:). With that said, on belts, I go a different route. I use 3M 77 spray adhesive (get it at your local hardware). It is easier to apply , goes on even gives a good bond adheres fast and is generally good stuff, flexible and all that. We used to use it in automotive seating and it works very well.

Hope this helps,

Bob

Edited by BondoBobCustomSaddles
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Posted

Don-Here's my $.02. When I reached the point in my leather working journey that I started lining belts/holsters I reverted back to my days in the cabinet shop-I spray my contact cement whenever I can. When I can find it I'll use WisonArt spray contact (at one time only WilsonArt laminate distributors sold it but I have found some Home Depots that carry it by the counter tops) but the Loctite or 3M Super 99 I readily find at Home Depot/Lowes works just as well (get the super high strength). I've never had any problems with anything coming apart. For lighter dress belts one coat is fine but on heavy gun belts I'll let the first coat tack up and then give it a second coat. Probably don't need the second coat but what the heck...The only time I ever brushed or rolled contact cement was when I was out in the field and had no other option. Also my Tandy *coughs* glass burnisher works great for pressing the layers together. :taptap:

3M Super 77, not 99. Thin, fat fingers, it's always something. :oops:

JW

My sewing machines (until I buy another one):

Cowboy CB3200

Cowboy CB0797

Posted

3M 77 spray adhesive is great stuff. I use it to apply 8.5x11 bright orange notices on the windshields of cars that park in handicap spaces illegally. Put it right over the steering wheel so I'm sure they see it.

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl::winkiss:

The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering.

Bruce Lee

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HAHAHA!

  • 4 years later...
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The best thinner I've used for DAP weldwood contact cement is Toluol, also called Toluene. It will actually thin the cement, not make it stringy. It'll clean your brushes as well. I've used acetone, but only to clean up afterward, but found it doesn't work as well as the Toluol. My two cents.

  • 2 years later...
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Posted

I know, late to the party. I’ve been using weldwood since I started leather working (easier and cheaper at the time than barge). I never thought about spray adhesive, I would use white glue on fabric to line stuff. I’ll now have to grab a can to play with.

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https://chemicalsafety.com/sds-search/

This is a link to a Safety Data Sheet (SDS) database. Put in your chemical information and a SDS should be found. The importance of this data sheet is it lists all chemicals in the product and provides details on injuries/fire and other details. As a side note, this used to be called the Master Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). Now the commercial accepted nomenclature is "SDS."

You can look up the product, view the constituents (products used in the manufacture) then make a few decisions if it doesn't tell you the exact thinner to use. I hope this helps...you can use it for dog shampoo to floor cleaner to car polish...all manufactured products today are required to have an SDS. The fire departments conduct inspections on the SDS in the commercial manufacturing industry. It's a must have...especially, when one gets something in the eye. The SDS has all the 1st Aid Information.

Joe

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