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Posted

Thanks for the input Tor

Do you have a UK supplier of the Ho Hsing?

Cheers

Gordon

Yes, College https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/ have it. Buts not displayed on their site. That's where my friend bought his, see the link in my post #3

Tor

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

  • 1 year later...
Posted

The clutch motor's torque remains constant, however the lower speed at the sewing machine results in increased torque at that point, so yes, will punch through tough items more easily.  The inertia in a clutch motor also helps punch through that first stitch.  It doesn't usually stall.

Tom

  • 11 months later...
  • Members
Posted
On 01/11/2016 at 10:56 PM, Sticks said:

Ah ok great to hear.

Also when I said 'as seen on ebay' I actually meant on youtube. The guy added a metal bar, extending the clutch lever to 'lengthen' and soften the pedal motion.

Guessing that was Cechaflo? He showed in another video how to change the reducer pulley too. I don't have a lever at all, my pitman goes straight from the side of the motor direct to the pedal, as it's an original Singer motor. I'm loathe to change it, as it matches the machine, and is fairly quiet too, so am very much hoping the pulleys will do the trick by themselves.

Posted

The torque of the motor is constant because it has that characteristics and it runs on full speed all the time, but when you put a smaller pulley on it it will be weaker on the output; it will do more work. Changing from a big 120 to a small 48 mm pulley will give you less speed, this is just like riding a bike and change gears. To improve both torque and low speed control, use a speed reducer. If you have a 3 Ph clutch motor, use frequency controller.  It will solve the problem, that if your clutch motor have enough power to start with. Minimum 550 - 600 watt and a good clutch (upholstery class). There are many ways to control a good clutch motor, but putting your right hand on the pulley to help slow it down. Taking of your shoes to get a better feel on the pedal etc. But do you have an ancient weak clutch motor to start with, change it out with something new; preferable a servo of good quality.  

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 9/8/2015 at 0:34 AM, Trox said:

Yes, College https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/ have it. Buts not displayed on their site. That's where my friend bought his, see the link in my post #3

Tor

Well, I am hoping they still sell it....  Since my Jack servo motor is a little quick for the work I wish to do...

 

I'll update this information either way.

Cheers

Alex

  • Members
Posted

College sewing are wonderfull.   They even sent to Japan for a couple of parts for one of my sewing machines, and didn’t put the charge through until they received the parts and had popped them into the post to me.

 

“Equality?   Political correctness gone mad, I tell you, gone mad!!!!    Next they'll be wanting the vote!!!!! :crazy:“.

Anger and intolerance are the enemy of correct understanding

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Posted

Hi Fraser, have you seen Harry Rogers' video on the subject? 

 

He uses two standard M pulleys, a piece of 15mm bright mild steel and a pair of 15mm pillow block bearings. All of these are available from eBay, total around £30. He found he had to drill and tap the boss of each pulley for a grub screw so they grip the shaft. If you don't want to do this you might be able to get away with hammering a wedge into each keyway slot, or maybe even glueing them in with epoxy though I think Harry's solution is the best.

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