Members dfrensdorff Posted October 12, 2015 Members Report Posted October 12, 2015 Hello All....I am sure this question has been asked and answered many times,, but a search came up somewhat empty.....what is the best contact cement you can buy? I am currently using Weldwood Red label, and for the most part it works just fine....with the exception on a belt where I used a light Horween horsefront glued and then sewn as a lining with a buffalo belt. It is separating just a bit at the buckle holes.......Maybe this is what will happen with any glue but just checking to see if there is a drop dead "best" contact cement....Thanks.........Don Quote
Chief31794 Posted October 12, 2015 Report Posted October 12, 2015 I've used Master's Contact Cement for years, it works so I use it. You'll probably get lots of opinions on which is best, try a small can of Barge, Masters, Weldwood and decide for yourself. Mine works so I have no desire to look for anything else. Chief Quote
electrathon Posted October 12, 2015 Report Posted October 12, 2015 Renia in a green can. Best and strongest there is. Masters was Renia, relabeled, till recently. Also does not have toluene in it, far less health risks than Barge. It is not the cheapest. Quote
Members dfrensdorff Posted October 12, 2015 Author Members Report Posted October 12, 2015 (edited) Thanks gentlemen for the information....... Edited October 12, 2015 by dfrensdorff Quote
Members Colt W Knight Posted October 13, 2015 Members Report Posted October 13, 2015 (edited) I use the red label Weldwood. I haven't had any reason to stop using it. Edited October 13, 2015 by Colt W Knight Quote
Contributing Member 24VOLTS Posted October 27, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted October 27, 2015 I don't like Barge. Make fell bad. I have recently purchased Aquilim 315 from Lisa Sorrell. I like the stuff. No smell and it seems to be strong. I bought the orange brush and that seems to work good. Quote
Contributing Member 24VOLTS Posted October 27, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted October 27, 2015 What is the difference between the red and green can of weldwood? I have used the green can. It seems that it starts to set up in the glue pat and then hardens. It seems like I am prying dried glue out of the pot every 4-5 weeks. Quote
electrathon Posted October 27, 2015 Report Posted October 27, 2015 I don't like Barge. Make fell bad. I have recently purchased Aquilim 315 from Lisa Sorrell. I like the stuff. No smell and it seems to be strong. I bought the orange brush and that seems to work good. Aquilim is a Renia product. It is a great water based adhesive. Quote
Moderator Art Posted October 27, 2015 Moderator Report Posted October 27, 2015 I don't like Barge. Make fell bad. I have recently purchased Aquilim 315 from Lisa Sorrell. I like the stuff. No smell and it seems to be strong. I bought the orange brush and that seems to work good. Aquilim is a Renia product. It is a great water based adhesive. I've found (through conversation) that the Aquilim takes a little longer to dry, like 2x. On another topic, who sells Flexofil, Stopgap, or other cork bottom filler here in the States? Art Quote
Members earlthegoat2 Posted November 22, 2015 Members Report Posted November 22, 2015 (edited) I know there are flammable and non flammable varieties of Weldwood. That is one difference in can color. I have tried: Masters, Weldwood (flammable),Old Barge, New Barge, Old Tandy, New Tandy, 3M Scotchweld 4475, The one that worked to my satisfaction was the Old Tandy and Old Barge. The others just work. They work but not like the old ones. The old ones made a permanent bond the second they touched each other. The new ones can be worked around a little. This can be a good thing but I like the confidence that comes with the old style adhesion. I use Masters and occasionally 3M Scotchweld now. The 4475 variety is their product for leather. The Scotchweld line are known as "Plastic Adhesives". Another general note: If it says not for sale in California, then it will work about as good as anything that is available. The 4475 carries that label. It gives new meaning to the term expensive. It costs 20 dollars for 5oz. I only use it sparingly where not a lot of flex will be needed in the finished product. I have no doubt it would work for those areas though. Im going to try Pliobond next. They have a specific product for porous surfaces. Edited November 22, 2015 by earlthegoat2 Quote
Moderator Art Posted November 22, 2015 Moderator Report Posted November 22, 2015 On a recommendation, I have tried Renia Aquilim 315. I like this product with one reservation. Being water based, it doesn't dry to the point that you would stick it together ON WET LEATHER. On dry leather I let the glue dry for 20 to 30 minutes before putting it together. If you use a thin coat, it will dry faster. Blow dryer/heat gun is a quicker option. Two thin coats are better than one thick one, but it is that way with most contact cements. Put it together and it stays together, no play at all. Silicone brushes from Rockler are cheap and work well, either leave them in the pot or if you let them dry overnight, the glue peels off easily in pretty much one big glop. The advantage is there is little (if any?) smell. On hot summer and cold winter days, the fume extraction pulls the conditioned air out of the shop with most contact adhesives, no need for fume extraction with the Aquilim 315. I think I will be using a lot more of this stuff from now on. I will keep using Renia Colle de Cologne for applications where I need wet leather compatibility, the Ethyl Acetate solvent is a little better than the Toluene solvent in the "real" Barge and Master cements, both smell and health wise. I recommend the T-S Boy glue containers for the Aquilim products as you can keep the brushes inside the cap so they don't dry out. The brush that comes with them is not good for use with the Aquilim products. Do not buy the Chinese version of these, they leak. The T-S Boy containers are from Germany. I don't use the T-S Boy containers for solvent based contact cements as there isn't an easy way to add thinner and slosh it around like you can on one of the bottles with the brush in the cap (pour the thinner in, screw on the cap, and shake). Eventually, the solvent based cements won't take thinner anymore and just lays in a glop in the bottom of the bottle. You have to get it out and put in fresh cement and you are good to go. I can't figure how that is going to happen with the T-S Boy container, or even IF it will happen with the Aquilim. Art Quote
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