Holster Process

[shlitz118]

I have a question on the steps y'all use in the holster making process. I have been making holsters for about a year and have mostly taught myself and learned from trial and error. I have gotten some great advice from guys that have been at this way longer then me although no one I know makes holsters. I have been following these steps making my holsters and it has been working pretty good but I would like to get my stitching closer to the trigger guard. I have been making mine in this order.

1) cut out pattern

2) glue

3) sand edges

4) stitch

5) stain

6) wet mold

7) burnish edges

8) apply finish

I am wondering if I should stitch after I wet mold. I was planning on trying it on my next build but figured I would get some advice from the guys on this site. I have attached a couple of pictures. Let me know what you think on the process and please let me know how I can improve my work. The only machine I use is my dremel tool for sanding. Thanks for the help in advance. I have seen some great stuff on this web site.

[JLSleather]

Actually, I think it's a layout issue. The order of steps you have should work just fine.. you're just putting your stitch line to far out. You'll need to suck it in up against the trigger guard, and then the process will be fine. What you do is basically the same as I do, except I generally stain after the form.

Fact is, looks like you're on the right track.. suck those stitch lines in a bit, and maybe a little less wide on the slots.

Do you have some gun molds you can use, or the actuals? There are some patterns on my site you can download free (translate $0.00). Not that you have THOSE exact guns, but if you can get hold of the molds, cost you about what -- maybe $10 to make a holster with one of those patterns. This way, you can see the way I laid out the stitch line and what that does to / for the fit.

This one is done

1) cut out pattern

2) glue

3) sand edges

4) stitch

7) burnish edges

6) wet mold

5) stain

7) burnish edges

8) apply finish

That fits a 5" 1911 from Colt, Springfield, RIA, Ruger, Wilson, and maybe some others

[shlitz118]

Thanks for the advice. I had actually downloaded some of your patterns. I try to use the actual gun when making the holster (I kind of have a gun habit so I have most of the guns I've needed) but use a blue gun at times. When I make the slots I used the 1/4" dremel sander. Any advice on how to make them smaller? I found a 1 3/4 inch oblong punch and was going to purchase one. I just didn't want to drop $60 on it right now. I am planning on buying one next extra job check.

[JLSleather]

I have slot punches that are about 3/16" wide. I say 'about' because they have a necessary draft angle to avoid plugging.. so they're a bit wider the higher up.. so by the time you burnish inside the slots, you got about 1/4" - which is PLENTY wide, even for a 1/4" thick belt. As a rule, the more material you can leave there, the more strength (I've seen some that were cut so thin that what was left was just plain floppy).

Side note, that's also the reason why my stitch lines go the way they do ... I mean, I like the look, but really it's about strength and stability.

Oh, slot or 'bag' punches.... I had the one for the slots in the picture done at texas custom dies, and my friend Robert said he liked the ones he got at Weaver Leather. Both a bit over $60, but they work a long time without losing an edge.

Edited October 17, 2015 by JLSleather

[chiefjason]

If you are hand stitching you can stitch after you mold. That is what I do. Machine stitching is going to depend on the machine. Some can, some can't. That said, I'm way out in left field with how I make holsters. lol

But since you are doing things in a more standard fashion, JLS's advice on fixing the pattern is spot on.

For belt slots, I use a round punch and a 1.5" skiving knife. Punch the holes, connect them by pushing the skiving knife strait down where I want the slots.

[stu925]

I agree with JLS I think it's more of a layout issue. Generally I try to keep my stiching lines about 3/8" from the outline of the gun that I draw during layout. This isn't always right and will depend on how thick the gun really is. An M&P Shield is very thin and 3/8" is a bit too much so I'd pull that stitch line in to 1/4" inch from the outline. A big N frame revolver may require a bit more space so adjust accorindly.

Stu

[renegadelizard]

I have a question on the steps y'all use in the holster making process. I have been making holsters for about a year and have mostly taught myself and learned from trial and error. I have gotten some great advice from guys that have been at this way longer then me although no one I know makes holsters. I have been following these steps making my holsters and it has been working pretty good but I would like to get my stitching closer to the trigger guard. I have been making mine in this order.

1) cut out pattern

2) glue

3) sand edges

4) stitch

5) stain

6) wet mold

7) burnish edges

8) apply finish

I am wondering if I should stitch after I wet mold. I was planning on trying it on my next build but figured I would get some advice from the guys on this site. I have attached a couple of pictures. Let me know what you think on the process and please let me know how I can improve my work. The only machine I use is my dremel tool for sanding. Thanks for the help in advance. I have seen some great stuff on this web site.

i would change it up just a wee bit...before you glue, burnish the edges that don't follow a stitch line...ie..holster mouth and toe...you can also stain the leather before you start working on it..before cutting out the pattern...black will make it a bit stiffer..you can also buy drum dyed leather for anything other than "normal" colors...its a huge time saver....I also burnish my edges bore i wet mold...wet molding is a violent process and the hardened edges hold up better..thants my $.02.....

[cleanview]

In regards to where the dye comes in ........

I have been dying after cutting and before gluing.....never done it the other way.........I know some dye in the beginning and some ate the end

what are some of the differences........looking for opinions here

[JLSleather]

Personal preference with alcohol or oil dyes. I've dyed the leather at the very end, and I've also used drum-dyed leather that was already colored before I cut it out. Both work fine.

With some of the stains and water-based products, I've seen some that I think made a difference in the order. But I don't use those, so I was basically taking someone else's word for the way it was done.

[Red Cent]

I always dye before applying glue. Dye is a glue marker.

[gunstocker]

My order is a little different:

1) Cut out pattern

2) Light sanding of edges

3) Cut stitching groves

4) Stain leather

5) Sew areas that can't be sewn after gluing.

6) glue and clamp

7) Re-touch edges by sanding

8) Sew

9) Wet mold

10) Apply finish

11) Sell

JR

[Boriqua]

I think you have everything you need. Definitely bring the stitches in closer to the gun. Everyone has their way but I measure the thickness of the gun then split the difference cheating in a scootch, which is immeasurable and done by eyeball, on either side. If I am using the same color thread as the body then I will usually dye after wet form but if I want to do contrasting stitching I will stain before stitching. If I am going to tool then I stain before stitching but antique after wetmold. It all depends. My process for a brown holster with brown thread is usually

Cut out pattern

Dye insides

Apply glycerine and slick insides well ( I dont apply dye or glyserin to the areas that will be glued )

Glue (once I glue I put it under some books and weights and it sits over night.)

Sand edges

Stitch

wetform

Dye body

After its good and dry I do a soft secondary sand to the eddges. ... Wet molding and bending and drying can move the edge around or swell it just enough to make burnishing a mess so although I already sanded I go in now and tighten it up.

Dye edges

Burnish

Seal with sealer of choice

I dont like edge coat much. Maybe I havent found the right brand. I have taken to applying a coat or two of Super sheen just to the edges as my final step. I usually use resolene 50/50 as the body sealer so the super sheen on the edge is a nice contrast.

If you dont want to spend the money now for a belt punch you can always use a regular hole punch in the size you want, make the holes the distance apart you want and connect the two holes with a razor. Works wonderfully and its neat if not the most time efficient. You probably already have the hole punches.

Your dye looks like you are applying with a dauber and doing it linearly. Dont be afraid to use the dye and when applying if you are using a dauber make circles but dont be stingy. After years of using those damned daubers I realized I get much better result using pieces of rag and started just using pieces of old tee shirts. Put on a glove .. wet the piece of rag really well and making circles rub it in to the leather. Makes for nice effects. but again be generous.

Edited November 9, 2015 by Boriqua