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Posted

Hi all, this is my first post on the leatherworker.net forums, though I've been an anonymous reader for quite a while. Finally I have a question that I can't find an answer to:

I purchased my first walking foot machine, an Adler 69, a few months ago. I'm pleased with how it sews but there are a few things about it I would change if I could, now having used it a little bit. If anyone out there knows City Sewing in NYC, they're great but can also be a pain to get information out of and sometimes I doubt their opinions and expertise when it comes to these types of machines.

Anyway, here's what I'm looking for:

1. The table is too high. It appears that it could be lowered, but when I loosen the bolts nothing happens. ...?

2. The table design makes it difficult to build/install a removable flat working surface. Ideally I want to be able to 'convert' the working area to a flat bed when needed. Although not impossible with this table, it would be a lot less cumbersome with an alternate table design that includes some sort of surface on the left as well as the right that the removable work surface could then bridge (see attached photo). Also, this table is supposedly called the 'space saver table' but really it's about the most space-wasting I could think of! If I could design & build my own table, that would be awesome.

3. The servo motor speed cannot be adjusted. I've been reading on this website a bit about this. I guess it means I have a 'brushless' motor? Would I be sacrificing torque or anything else if I sought out a motor that is speed-adjustable? I've also been reading about EPS. I'd love to have that feature, too, if possible.

Given the wish list above, do you think it makes sense to try to kit out my purchase or attempt to sell this machine and re-buy another package that has more of the features I'm looking for?

Also, should it be better to stick with what I have, does anyone have any mechanic contacts in the NYC area who would be willing to help with the work? I'm always willing to learn, but I have to admit that I know nearly nothing about how to lower the table height, let alone install a new motor!

Thanks a lot,

Lauren

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Posted (edited)

The table for this machine needs to be big to counterbalance the overhang.

Here is a very elegant flatbed solution which would work for your machine with a little adaptation: Others have cobbled together similar but significantly cruder tables for their cylinder arms.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=65589

Also, the design used by most of the juki 441 clone guys ie: cobra, cowboy, techsew could be adapted to your machine.

Before you lower the table you should disconnect the foot pedals, also it looks like the weight of the machine may have got the legs jammed up. Try with the bolts loose lifting up on the machine side while a partner pushes down on the other side. Be prepared to have the machine go right to the bottom of the slots as soon as its un-jammed. A stack of encyclopedia britannica under each corner of the table at the correct final height will stop this and hold the machine weight up while you tighten up the bolts.

Edited by TinkerTailor

"If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing."

"There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"

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Posted

Ok, thanks for the helpful info. Regarding the table... I understand the counterbalance issue. It still could be better designed -- then again i'm a designer and I think a lot of things in my life could be better designed!

Hopefully someone can chime in regarding the motor

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Posted

New adjustable servo motors are 100-200 with most of the advertisers on the site. There are air shock and electric motor height adjustable tables out there but they are really pricey. They also involve interesting setups to accommodate pedal chain length. I also design stuff and i am working on an idea for the issue of an easily adjustable table that is easy on the pocket for these machines

"If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing."

"There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"

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Posted (edited)

I also design stuff and i am working on an idea for the issue of an easily adjustable table that is easy on the pocket for these machines

That sounds great... let me know if I can help at all.

Just out of curiosity, is there a go-to source for pre-made tables? I haven't been able to find any retailers online or off that offer any kind of selection, especially for cylinder bed machines.

Edited by lfab
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Posted

How about a table like this. This is an Adler 105 I once have restored

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~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

@Constabulary, that's beautiful but i think I'm looking to get the working surface as flush as possible with the arm, like the examples that @TinkerTailor mentioned.

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Posted

Looking at the first photo, the adjusting bolts appear to be at their maximum height. If it won't move, I'd suggest removing the machine first (to take some of the weight off the table) and then start fiddling around with the bolts. There's a fair bit of adjustment available, so no real reason it can't be lowered. As TT said, don't forget to disconnect the pedal linkage first.

As for the motor, did you get any paperwork with it?

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

Posted

The really cool convertible table setups for cylinder arm machines are only available in Germany, it seems. At least that's where I get my ideas from.

Sieck has a few nice examples, like the Adler 69 setup with an arm-attached flatbed:

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Or how about this Pfaff 335 arrangement with a flatbed slide-in table:

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None of the above options are available commercially in the US, as far as I know.

For your table, it would not be too hard to make an extension that attaches to the existing table and a support leg or two on the left. Once you have a flat surface, you can make a four-legged slide-in table with a suitable cutout for the cylinder arm like the Pfaff 335 example above. This is the concept:

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My Pfaff 335 flatbed table attachment (thanks for the mention, TinkerTailor!) actually does not fit the Adler 69 because the Adler has a longer arm. I plan to make an Adler 69 version over the next month or so, now that I actually have an Adler 69 in my possession to take measurements.

There are some U-shaped table options available in the US like this example from Toledo Industrial below. It would also work with both varieties of flatbed table attachments. I'm not sure if Toledo Ind. sells it separately, though:

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I've also contemplated hacking this electrically height adjustable BEKANT Ikea table to make a sewing machine stand:

bekant-corner-desk-right-sit-stand-black

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

Links: Videos 

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Posted

I order most new machines with a Kessler brand table. Unlimited configurations and height adjustable with a crank handle. They are on lockable wheels. They are however around 1k each.

Regards, Eric

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