How Effective Is Hot Dipping Veg Tan In Paraffin Or Bees Wax?

[jlrowe]

Got a few questions:

1. I usually use just Resolene at probably 70% and when dry brush and apply parrafin wax like a using kiwi shoe polish and have got great results for the short term. But I was wondering about hot dipping would it be a lot more effective in waterproofing?

2. Should hot dip be done before or after dye? I know i could just order bridle or harness leather but i usually stamp or tool veg tan.

3. Also on the other end of the spectrum, is there a way to keep the natural color of great quality leather without darkening it? Even if i just apply Resolene, it darkens the leather somewhat (example shown in pic) The dog collar is done just with Resolene.

[Art]

Back when I was doing a lot of hunting and camp knives and sheaths, I used to get a lot of calls for that. I used a 60/40 mix of neatsfoot and beeswax at about 160F if I remember right. Remember to put a hole in the bottom of the sheath for the water to run out. It worked very well, but haven't had a call for something like that in at least 15 years.

Art

[tossik]

I melt beeswax into veg tan all the time, I love the look it gives afterwards when you use the leather. Been doing that for about 2 years now.

[jlrowe]

Back when I was doing a lot of hunting and camp knives and sheaths, I used to get a lot of calls for that. I used a 60/40 mix of neatsfoot and beeswax at about 160F if I remember right. Remember to put a hole in the bottom of the sheath for the water to run out. It worked very well, but haven't had a call for something like that in at least 15 years.

Art

Hey Art is that 60% NF and then 40 Beeswax? I think i will give it a try.

[jlrowe]

I melt beeswax into veg tan all the time, I love the look it gives afterwards when you use the leather. Been doing that for about 2 years now.

Thanks tossik i think im going to give it a try. Do you dye or just leave yours natural?

[tossik]

Jlrowe, I do both. But natural shows wax the most. It makes nice shades of brown and light creases when you twist the leather piece.

[Art]

Hey Art is that 60% NF and then 40 Beeswax? I think i will give it a try.

Correct, 60% NF, but you can vary it a bit, more on the NF side I think. I used to have an old turkey roaster (electric with a cloth cord so it had to be '50s vintage). I would put the whole thing in for 15 seconds or more, pull it out and hang it up to drain. The formulation for NF has probably changed some in that time, but it will be somewhat the same.

Art

[Dwight]

I weigh it out, . . . equal portions of virgin bees wax (got my own virgin bees ), . . . and neats foot oil.

Stick it in a jar, . . . stick the jar in my Salvation Army $10 crock pot with enough water to float the jar, . . .

Turn it on, . . . when the concoction is a nice runny liquid, . . . I set out muffin papers in a muffin pan, . . . pour the concoction into the muffin papers, . . . let it cool.

When I want to use it then, . . . grab a hunk of it in the muffin paper, . . . rub it anywhere you want to waterproof something. It DOES lightly darken the leather.

I also rub some on, . . . hit it with the heat gun to melt it into the leather, . . . do that until I get the finish I want, . . . shines like new copper penny.

May God bless,

Dwight

[J W Craftsman]

I have a question regarding finishes like this. I prefer the look of the wax finish over the shiny resolene finish. I also noticed it gives the leather an almost "pull up" charecteristic when using this finish. My question is. Since it's a mixture between wax and nf oil is there any further conditioned needed for the leather? Oil before the wax/oil combo. Oil after wax/oil combo or is oiling no longer necessary since your using a mix of oil/wax.

Also, is the oil/wax good as a finish just on its own?

I should add, I'm referring to more the wax/oil combo you rub on then melt into the leather with a heat gun.

[Dwight]

I have a question regarding finishes like this. I prefer the look of the wax finish over the shiny resolene finish. I also noticed it gives the leather an almost "pull up" charecteristic when using this finish. My question is. Since it's a mixture between wax and nf oil is there any further conditioned needed for the leather? Oil before the wax/oil combo. Oil after wax/oil combo or is oiling no longer necessary since your using a mix of oil/wax.

Also, is the oil/wax good as a finish just on its own?

I should add, I'm referring to more the wax/oil combo you rub on then melt into the leather with a heat gun.

Most of my work is CCW leather, . . . prone to being sweated upon profusely, . . . so I routinely use a 50/50 mixture of Resolene and water on them.

On certain special pieces, . . . they get the NF / Beeswax treatment, . . . apply / rub / heat gun, . . . repeat, . . . repeat as necessary, . . . and finally buff to the luster you want.

My western rig for my SAA Beretta .45 LC is done that way, . . . love it.

But I've never added oil to the rig since I finished it. It's only 6 or 8 years old, . . . should be good for another 50 anyway, . . . maybe one of my great grand nephews will toss it then.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited November 16, 2015 by Dwight