Pfaff 545-H4-6/01

[Jome]

Ok, I got a Pfaff 545-H4-6/01. I know this is a really good machine but now I am trying to learn it and I could really use some help. I am very new to sewing machines but I am going to do what it takes to learn them.

The first thing I need help on is the motor, I want to put a servo motor on it for better efficiency and being able to sew at slower speeds etc. but this machine has a lot of extras I have not seen on a machine and I do not know what exactly changing out the motor would involve.

I am attaching a lot of pics to show what is on this Pfaff.

I cannot even turn the motor on yet because the power cord is a 2nd phase cord (I think) and I only have the standard outlets in my shop. Anyways the motor is a Quick Rotan Synchro 6040.

One thing that has me kind of baffled, the guy who I got the machine from said something about needing an air compressor hooked up to raise the walking foot. I think that is what he said but I am not sure if that is exactly what he was talking about.

So this is a clutch motor right?

Can I change the motor out and put a servo motor on the Pfaff?

And what are all of the extra hookups on the back of the machine head?

Thank you in advance. I can also take pictures of any specific part of the machine if someone needs to see it.

the first 9 pics are of the motor and the last 3 are pics of the attachments on the back of the head of the sewing machine.

Thanks a lot!

Edited November 28, 2015 by Jome

[sandyt]

This setup probably has needle pisitioning, thread cutter, air operated foot lift etc..... Like they use in factories. The air is needed for some of those features.

The only benefit from a servo motor is its efficiency I think.

[Uwe]

That's not a clutch motor. It's actually a very fancy servo motor with needle positioning and all probably all kinds of programmable features - potentially too fancy for a beginner. It needs 220V, same as a typical electric dryer or stove top in the U.S. I'm running my 220V servo motor off the circuit that my clothes dryer is on ( I don't do laundry and sew at the same time :-)

All the hook-ups and air cylinders on the back allow the controller to lift the presser foot and perhaps do automatic back-tack (reverse). It'll need compressed air to actually move levers with enough force via air cylinder that push or pull.

It's all very nice stuff to have for high volume production work or in a factory, but only if it works and you have the right hook-ups for electric power and compressed air. For the novice leather sewing hobbyist it may be more of a setup and maintenance headache.

Sometimes it's easier to remove all that fancy stuff and put it back to simple mode with a normal servo motor. The problem with that is that it's still a lot of work, you're removing stuff you may miss a year down the road, and the machine may no longer have the normal manual levers and connectors since it is all setup for pneumatic operation.

If you can post a couple of pictures of the rest of the machine it may help us figure out what approach might be best.

[sandyt]

I am not sure, but I think it can sew one stitch at a time like an Efka stop motor.

[Jome]

Thanks sandyt and Uwe! The sewing machine did come from someone who was using it for a large volume of work, I guess it could have been considered a small factory. I won the sewing machine in an auction, I was able to see the machine before the final auction but the room was really crowded with other items and there was no outlet nearby so I just asked what questions I could think to ask about the sewing machine. In the small amount of time I looked at the sewing machine I did not notice all of the extras that were attached, not that they would have deterred my interest in the sewing machine though.

I know this is a good sewing machine and now I know that it has a good motor as well as all of the other extras so I am willing to adapt to get be able to use this sewing machine. If I have to put a different servo motor on it for now (if that is possible) I will but I will keep everything that is installed on the sewing machine right now for when I am ready for it in the future.

Uwe, I will get more pictures and post them. One other thing, I believe there is a 220V line in the building where my shop is located but unfortunately it is located on the complete opposite side of where I am at. I will have to talk to the landlord to find out if it is true.

[Kohlrausch]

  On 11/28/2015 at 10:49 PM, Uwe said:

It needs 220V, same as a typical electric dryer or stove top in the U.S. I'm running my 220V servo motor off the circuit that my clothes dryer is on ( I don't do laundry and sew at the same time :-)

Hi,

the sign says

190-240 Volt

1PH

I read that as European Voltage single phase. Would that work with 220 Volts US or would it need some kind of conversion?

Greets

Ralf C.

[Northmount]

220 vac (North America) is single phase. Only larger loads like stores, shopping centres, factories, etc. use 3 phase.

208 vac 3 phase wye connected provides 120 vac single phase from line to neutral.

Tom

[Uwe]

US 220V is compatible with the machine/motor you have. You have to either run a 220V circuit to your work area or get a $37 converter that turns 110V into 220V and handles more than 600W of power (the easy choice) . If you're good with electrical stuff you can run the 220V circuit yourself. If you have to pay an electrician to do it, it'll likely be more expensive than what you paid for the machine.

Most normal residential and office space electric utility service in the US has two powered wires (usually black) run into the house's circuit breaker box - one on the left side, the other on the right side inside the circuit breaker box. Each powered wire will have 110V against the white neutral wire, but there will be 220V between the two black powered wires. So, for a normal 110V circuit, you need to run just ONE of the black power wires and the white neutral to the outlet. For 220V, you will need to run BOTH black power wires to the box (white/green will be there for safety, but not really required to power the appliance).

Personally, I'm running a 220V extension cord (with special plugs) from my electric dryer circuit in my laundry to my workshop area until get around to running a dedicated 220V circuit into my workshop area.

At 600W, you're using considerably less power than a typical hair dryer, so nothing to get really freaked out about. The 600W are peak power, too. For normal sewing, you probably use less than 100 Watts of power -

and a 220V servo motor should be no different. Your air compressor will use more power than the sewing motor when it kicks in.

For an air compressor, you can try something simple and small for around $70. Get it someplace that has a good return policy or rent one to check what size you need. Bigger compressors will have to turn on less frequently. Get a quiet one that doesn't make you jump out of your seat when it turns on.

The machine you got is indeed very nice and desirable - good for you! Making it work for you will be worth the effort.

Edited November 29, 2015 by Uwe

[sandyt]

If you want to use the air feateres, I would reccoment a compressor like jun-air. Or other small compressors used for airbrushing and stuff. They are realy realy silent. They are as silent as a refrigirator. The air consumption of your machine is realy small. So no need for big air tanks. The smallest should do.

[Jome]

Thank you Uwe and sandyt for all of your very helpful information!

Here are some more pics of the sewing machine setup. Uwe, I have included a picture of the end of the power cord, do you know if there is an adapter I could get to work with the converter you mentioned because it doesn't look like it would work with the converter. I would rather use a converter than run a new circuit line.

And this sewing machine needs to be cleaned up. I have also included the extra parts that came in the drawer of the table.

[SARK9]

The plug on your power cord certainly *looks* like its for 3ph...

-DC

[Ken G]

That is a single phase, 4 wire, 4 prong, twist lock plug rated for 20 amps, 125/250 volts. It has two "hot" wires, one neutral, and one ground.

http://www.ehow.com/how_7702953_wire-nema-l1420p-plug.html

[SARK9]

http://www.marincopowerproducts.com/en/3015p

Who knew? Since most industrials from factories use 3ph.....

-DC

Edited December 1, 2015 by SARK9

[Uwe]

The plug itself is not conclusive as to what they actually had or used. They may have 3-phase outlets in the factory, but the control box may expect a 1-phase input. Maybe that's why there is an intermediate little box that looks like the power cable goes to it. That box may be there to re-wire things and switch from 3-phase to 1-phase (which basically means you're not using one of the incoming wires.)

Jome, you really need to track down a manual for that control unit. You also need to track down a buddy who's good with electrical stuff and offer him/her a case of beer AFTERWARDS. I've not been able to find a manual online. Without a manual, you won't know how to make the control box do what you need it to do. You also don't really know how it is configured right now. Quite often these control boxes come with a separate display and keypad unit to do the "programming" (setting parameters that determine how it behaves). Your control box has some switches for direct settings for needle position, etc. but it also has that long white connector that looks suspiciously like serial connector for attaching a terminal or display/keyboard. Often in a factory setting, the on-site mechanic will come to set up the control box and then purposely lock out the operator of the machine from changing that setup.

Changing out the plug for one that would fit the voltage converter box is easy enough, but before you do that you really need to know what you're doing and what that control box is expecting for input. There should be a sticker or label somewhere that states what the power input should be, similar to the one on the motor. It may be close to where the power cable enters the control box (maybe after the intermediate on/off switch?)

Take some more pictures so we can see every surface of the control box (underside too). Also the anything between that plug and the control box (on/off switch, etc.) It's not easy figuring this out remotely without skype and you pointing the camera in real time.

Edited December 1, 2015 by Uwe

[SARK9]

I've dug around through a good number of older factory industrials in the former textile belts of NC, and while there are lots of "plain" 110v clutch motor equipped machines, the ones set up for balls-to-the-walls production with all the automated stuff seem to usually be 3ph. Two of the machines I bought had similar setups on them, pneumatic lifts, all sorts of needle coolers/positioners and powered and programmable remote accessories...one was a Mitsubishi Limi-stop Z, both were wired for low voltage 3ph. Guess that's why I sort of assumed it was not a single phase. I also see people get sort of skunked by buying an industrial without asking if its single or 3ph before they get it home. Its a common gotcha.

-DC

[Uwe]

If the unit truly requires 3-phase input, you could potentially use a variable frequency control box (around $150) to convert (in a minor engineering miracle) plain 110V to 240V 3-phase. I'm experimenting with one of these variable frequency boxes to drive a 3-phase motor.

[Ken G]

If it were my machine, and I considered bidding on several of the machines at that auction, I would remove the motor and all of the extraneous crap that is on that machine and install a 3/4 hp servo motor from Toledo Industrial Sewing. The website lists them at $135.00 shipped. That would eliminate the need for any converters, adapters, rewiring the house, buying air compressors, etc.

http://www.tolindsewmach.com/motors.html

[sandyt]

Very very confenient, strong, high quality, expensive. Why is it crap?

I think people who used it, won't buy a servo if it brakes. But pay double the price for having it fixed. Or maybe That's just me.

Those 'cheap' servo motors are populair because of the price. Not because they are better or stronger.

It's true, the more stuff on the machine, the more stuff that could brake.

You have to consider that.

A clutch motor with some kind of speed reducer, would be the best. Almost unbreakable. And very low maintanance.

[SARK9]

The add-on pneumatic stuff is actually pretty useful...my Pfaff 481 and one of my Jukis both had small air cylinders for the foot lift and the reverse linkages. Its no big thing to convert these functions to manual/pedal actuators and have the best of both worlds...these nice hands-free capabilities plus a silent controllable servo motor that only runs when the pedal is pressed. Unless you are confident you can successfully program the current factory system, and will need and use the programmable stitch routines regularly, I would discard the existing motor (as many do with a loud or grabby clutch motor) and keep any accessories that were either pneumatic or used single phase relays or switches. A good number of small 3/4 hp servo motors are available for about the same cost as a VFD or phase converter. I personally don't care if I have to buy a new Chinese "servo" every couple of years if they keep me from having to listen to the annoying buzzing and humming of a clutch motor. However, I have had 5 servos running for several years now with no issues at all, to date. But each to their own.

-DC

[TinkerTailor]

  On 12/1/2015 at 12:19 AM, Jome said:

Thank you Uwe and sandyt for all of your very helpful information!

Here are some more pics of the sewing machine setup. Uwe, I have included a picture of the end of the power cord, do you know if there is an adapter I could get to work with the converter you mentioned because it doesn't look like it would work with the converter. I would rather use a converter than run a new circuit line.

And this sewing machine needs to be cleaned up. I have also included the extra parts that came in the drawer of the table.

Is this a crack?

and the haywire is a nice touch.....Damn farmers.....lol

Edited December 1, 2015 by TinkerTailor

[Constabulary]

I would remove all that fancy stuff. It probably has a reason why this machine no longer is running in an industrial environment (where it for sure comes from). Probably no reason but usually a normal leather worker does not need these fancy things. But If you like these features keep them and rebuilt them if necessary, why not. But I personally don´t need that stuff. Too many things that could cause trouble and costs.

[Jome]

Tinker Taylor - yes that is a crack.

Uwe - I have attached pictures of the box with the power switch, I also opened it up and took pics. I have also added pictures of the control box and motor. I even took off the cover of the control box and took pics. The only other sticker I found was on the box with the power switch so I have added a pic of that too.

SARK9 - I have never owned a sewing machine before and I did not expect to get one with all of these features. No I do not need all of the features so even if I removed them but kept the pneumatic ones wouldn't that be ineffective because it all runs off the control box?

Constabulary - As far as I know, I have no use for all of these extra features, I am really understanding why Uwe said "for the novice leather sewing hobbyist it may be more of a setup and maintenance headache". Switching everything back to manual and getting a different servo motor is sounding very ideal.

KenG - That is what I am really considering doing.

Edited December 2, 2015 by Jome

[Uwe]

The pictures from inside the switch box want to tell the story about incoming power, except I can't quite make out the incoming wires. It's definitely expecting single phase 220V incoming power - that little transformer diagram seems to want ONE power line that carries 220V against a neutral white. What I can't tell is if the incoming 220V is ONE power wire against a neutral white, or between TWO power wires. This is important.

A voltage transformer like the one mentioned earlier may actually provide exactly what the machine is expecting, one power line carrying 220V against a neutral white.

A few more pictures would help: show more details of the incoming wires inside the box (is the green/blue/brown the incoming one and are there really only three incoming wires?), open the plug at the end of the power wire and show us which wire is connected to which pole inside that plug.

Edited December 4, 2015 by Uwe

[Jome]

Uwe, I have added two pictures of the power cord. One is of the end with the plug taken apart and the other picture is of the end that goes into the box. The brown, green and blue wires that my index finger is on are the only wires that make up the cord. I have also been talking to my uncle who used to be an electrician and he said if the motor says it is single phase, then that is what he believes it is.

And I have not had any success in finding manuals for the control box.

[Northmount]

Green/yellow wire is safety ground. Blue and brown are both hot. Your home service panel is 110-0-110. The 0 is neutral. Connecting to the two 110 v leads gives you 220 v. Your breakers for 220 are double or paired. So you basically connect to the double breaker, which is 220. And yes this is all single phase. A motor nameplate that says single phase is single phase (unless the nameplate was changed, and you can see if it has been tampered with).

If you are unsure about doing this bit of wiring, hire an electrician to fab your extension cords / adapters and to do the hookup.

Tom