Pfaff 545-H4-6/01

[Jome]

Ok, I got a Pfaff 545-H4-6/01. I know this is a really good machine but now I am trying to learn it and I could really use some help. I am very new to sewing machines but I am going to do what it takes to learn them.

The first thing I need help on is the motor, I want to put a servo motor on it for better efficiency and being able to sew at slower speeds etc. but this machine has a lot of extras I have not seen on a machine and I do not know what exactly changing out the motor would involve.

I am attaching a lot of pics to show what is on this Pfaff.

I cannot even turn the motor on yet because the power cord is a 2nd phase cord (I think) and I only have the standard outlets in my shop. Anyways the motor is a Quick Rotan Synchro 6040.

One thing that has me kind of baffled, the guy who I got the machine from said something about needing an air compressor hooked up to raise the walking foot. I think that is what he said but I am not sure if that is exactly what he was talking about.

So this is a clutch motor right?

Can I change the motor out and put a servo motor on the Pfaff?

And what are all of the extra hookups on the back of the machine head?

Thank you in advance. I can also take pictures of any specific part of the machine if someone needs to see it.

the first 9 pics are of the motor and the last 3 are pics of the attachments on the back of the head of the sewing machine.

Thanks a lot!

Edited November 28, 2015 by Jome

[sandyt]

This setup probably has needle pisitioning, thread cutter, air operated foot lift etc..... Like they use in factories. The air is needed for some of those features.

The only benefit from a servo motor is its efficiency I think.

[Uwe]

That's not a clutch motor. It's actually a very fancy servo motor with needle positioning and all probably all kinds of programmable features - potentially too fancy for a beginner. It needs 220V, same as a typical electric dryer or stove top in the U.S. I'm running my 220V servo motor off the circuit that my clothes dryer is on ( I don't do laundry and sew at the same time :-)

All the hook-ups and air cylinders on the back allow the controller to lift the presser foot and perhaps do automatic back-tack (reverse). It'll need compressed air to actually move levers with enough force via air cylinder that push or pull.

It's all very nice stuff to have for high volume production work or in a factory, but only if it works and you have the right hook-ups for electric power and compressed air. For the novice leather sewing hobbyist it may be more of a setup and maintenance headache.

Sometimes it's easier to remove all that fancy stuff and put it back to simple mode with a normal servo motor. The problem with that is that it's still a lot of work, you're removing stuff you may miss a year down the road, and the machine may no longer have the normal manual levers and connectors since it is all setup for pneumatic operation.

If you can post a couple of pictures of the rest of the machine it may help us figure out what approach might be best.

[sandyt]

I am not sure, but I think it can sew one stitch at a time like an Efka stop motor.

[Jome]

Thanks sandyt and Uwe! The sewing machine did come from someone who was using it for a large volume of work, I guess it could have been considered a small factory. I won the sewing machine in an auction, I was able to see the machine before the final auction but the room was really crowded with other items and there was no outlet nearby so I just asked what questions I could think to ask about the sewing machine. In the small amount of time I looked at the sewing machine I did not notice all of the extras that were attached, not that they would have deterred my interest in the sewing machine though.

I know this is a good sewing machine and now I know that it has a good motor as well as all of the other extras so I am willing to adapt to get be able to use this sewing machine. If I have to put a different servo motor on it for now (if that is possible) I will but I will keep everything that is installed on the sewing machine right now for when I am ready for it in the future.

Uwe, I will get more pictures and post them. One other thing, I believe there is a 220V line in the building where my shop is located but unfortunately it is located on the complete opposite side of where I am at. I will have to talk to the landlord to find out if it is true.

[Kohlrausch]

It needs 220V, same as a typical electric dryer or stove top in the U.S. I'm running my 220V servo motor off the circuit that my clothes dryer is on ( I don't do laundry and sew at the same time :-)

Hi,

the sign says

190-240 Volt

1PH

I read that as European Voltage single phase. Would that work with 220 Volts US or would it need some kind of conversion?

Greets

Ralf C.

[Northmount]

220 vac (North America) is single phase. Only larger loads like stores, shopping centres, factories, etc. use 3 phase.

208 vac 3 phase wye connected provides 120 vac single phase from line to neutral.

Tom

[Uwe]

US 220V is compatible with the machine/motor you have. You have to either run a 220V circuit to your work area or get a $37 converter that turns 110V into 220V and handles more than 600W of power (the easy choice) . If you're good with electrical stuff you can run the 220V circuit yourself. If you have to pay an electrician to do it, it'll likely be more expensive than what you paid for the machine.

Most normal residential and office space electric utility service in the US has two powered wires (usually black) run into the house's circuit breaker box - one on the left side, the other on the right side inside the circuit breaker box. Each powered wire will have 110V against the white neutral wire, but there will be 220V between the two black powered wires. So, for a normal 110V circuit, you need to run just ONE of the black power wires and the white neutral to the outlet. For 220V, you will need to run BOTH black power wires to the box (white/green will be there for safety, but not really required to power the appliance).

Personally, I'm running a 220V extension cord (with special plugs) from my electric dryer circuit in my laundry to my workshop area until get around to running a dedicated 220V circuit into my workshop area.

At 600W, you're using considerably less power than a typical hair dryer, so nothing to get really freaked out about. The 600W are peak power, too. For normal sewing, you probably use less than 100 Watts of power -

and a 220V servo motor should be no different. Your air compressor will use more power than the sewing motor when it kicks in.

For an air compressor, you can try something simple and small for around $70. Get it someplace that has a good return policy or rent one to check what size you need. Bigger compressors will have to turn on less frequently. Get a quiet one that doesn't make you jump out of your seat when it turns on.

The machine you got is indeed very nice and desirable - good for you! Making it work for you will be worth the effort.

Edited November 29, 2015 by Uwe

[sandyt]

If you want to use the air feateres, I would reccoment a compressor like jun-air. Or other small compressors used for airbrushing and stuff. They are realy realy silent. They are as silent as a refrigirator. The air consumption of your machine is realy small. So no need for big air tanks. The smallest should do.

[Jome]

Thank you Uwe and sandyt for all of your very helpful information!

Here are some more pics of the sewing machine setup. Uwe, I have included a picture of the end of the power cord, do you know if there is an adapter I could get to work with the converter you mentioned because it doesn't look like it would work with the converter. I would rather use a converter than run a new circuit line.

And this sewing machine needs to be cleaned up. I have also included the extra parts that came in the drawer of the table.