Castineira Report post Posted December 3, 2015 The last monday I had a unexpected gift. A friend of mine has a Singer 29K1 which not work at all and he called me to try solve it. The only problem was that the machine hadn't been oiled properly. when the job was done my friend came with another 29k (rusty and disassembled) it was a gift to me. Now i´m thinking in the restoration job. Suggestions are accepted. I must restore to her factory colors or change it (electric blue for example) More pics of the procces will be posted in this thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted December 3, 2015 Parts Missing? Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Castineira Report post Posted December 3, 2015 Yes, some parts are missing. At least the bobbin, part of the walking foot mechanism (you can see on photo number 3), tension bar and the bar who moves the pinions. This weekend I will to dissasemble it completly and then I could see how many parts are really missed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sandyt Report post Posted December 3, 2015 Is it loose or is the machine seized? Are the internals and moving parts also that rusty? It would be WOW if you got that machine running good and with fresh paint. Lot of work Sandy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted December 3, 2015 I would place that as being about a $300 machine if it was all there (including the missing treadle base), it is not worn out and it sews well. It will cost you far more money for the parts to restore it that it will sell for done. Worse if you count your labor. I recommend you keep it as a parts machine. I recently sold my 29K4 for $400 and it was far from a mad dash for it when I listed it. It was in nice shape. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted December 3, 2015 I just realized you are not in the US, I suspect they are easier to find over there than here, but not sure how that would relate to the dollar value/conversion to here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted December 4, 2015 ELECTRIC BLUE! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted December 4, 2015 (edited) Holy lord - wost machine I ever have seen - good luck with it - you may need 200€ - 300€ or more to restore it - if it is possible at all. A LOT of missing AND broken parts and rust has already eaten the metal. I would not touch it - its Junk. My opinion. Edited December 4, 2015 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted December 4, 2015 That machine is definitely in need of some TLC. If you decide to restore it, the original color was black of course. Singer's machines made in that time period were dipped in black lacquer. I think it might be fun to restore but it will not be cheap. The only place I know of carrying parts for the 29-4 which were also used in the 29K1 is Pligrim Shoe here in the states. The 29K1 uses some different parts than later machines starting with the 29K51. Constabulary can tell you remove the rust should you decide to restore the machine. I would de-rust it just to get it down to see what the casting looks like. that way, you know what you have as to it being a parts machine. It is missing a lot of parts however. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted December 4, 2015 Put it in a drum of kerosene for a month, pull it out, pressure wash it, wax it and sell it to some hipster store as a display piece. Use the money to buy a machine that is at least complete. You can easily spend double or triple the time looking for parts as you do actually working on the machine, sometimes tenfold if you are a constable.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uwe Report post Posted December 5, 2015 (edited) You should seriously consider using it as an unrestored historic decorative piece. It would look great as it is in the right setting and your friend would admire your sense of decorating. The problem with gifts often is that the people giving them expect to then see them when they come visit. I personally would not soak it in kerosene (sounds like a very smelly fire hazard,) I'd leave it outside all winter and spray salt water on it occasionally to really get some patina going. Turning it into a shiny AND functional machine may neither be feasible nor in it's best interest. Edited December 5, 2015 by Uwe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted December 5, 2015 pb blaster is mostly kerosene. old farmer trick to clean parts and unseize bolts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uwe Report post Posted December 5, 2015 (edited) So when people say "soak it in kerosene" they mean "spray this kind of stuff all over it", and not "fill a big vat/tub with kerosene and submerge your sewing machine in it"? Maybe my imagination just got a little carried away. Edited December 5, 2015 by Uwe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Brosowski Report post Posted December 5, 2015 It is rough but if you REALLY want to restore it then it can be done. Bobbin winder is easy to find (says he who sells them) but the presser foot tension spring is harder to find - I have made some but they are expensive. The presser foot lift adjuster is easier to make. These types of jobs are never impossible as long as you want to do it and are not so worried about the true cost. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gottaknow Report post Posted December 6, 2015 I love restoring old machines, but it's not practical in a factory unless it's very rare and special application. I do have a few waiting for that reason. I've rebuilt some for private parties, including a couple for folks here. I love the process. If that machine were mine, I'd stick it in a tub of kerosene for a few months and see what was left, then decide. Regards, Eric Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sandyt Report post Posted December 6, 2015 What is the kerosine doing? Besides degreasing. Does it disolve rust? Or stabilize (conserve) the rust?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted December 7, 2015 Im too impatient to drown the thing in kerosine for extended periods of time. I would just blast it with some none damaging media like crushed walnut hulls. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted December 7, 2015 What is the kerosine doing? Besides degreasing. Does it disolve rust? Or stabilize (conserve) the rust?? I believe part of the idea is the kerosene will soak into the pores of the cast iron, and both help get out the deep grease as well as protect it. Mostly i think it is that kerosene or diesel are both cheap solvents, so completely dunking a machine that is all gummed up and rusted is the least labour intensive and cheapest way to start a resto and loosen everything up without damaging anything, which can happen with blasting and pressure washing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gottaknow Report post Posted December 7, 2015 Tinker is correct in his assessment and best use for kerosene. It's a down and dirty first step in a preparing a rusted machine for total disassembly. It's not the cure-all for what ails the machine in this thread. You better bring your big boy pants,several pullers, emery cloth, brass punches, dead-blow hammers, and a bunch of other stuff. Actually a fun process if you're not in a hurry. Regards, Eric Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted December 7, 2015 Rust is never good, but plenty of old machines are fine. Some look rusty, but really are not at all. They just have a thick layer of dust and old oil that has turned to cement everywhere. This crap can be very abrasive. Moving the machine while it is there can cause huge damage to bearing surfaces. Spray on lubes do not have the contact time that is required to loosen this stuff. The only choice is the dip........If you do work like this frequently, having dip buckets are the way to go. I have an icecream bucket with a spaghetti strainer in it full of degreaser for soaking small parts. If you spray it on its gone, if you dip it, the fluid last much longer. You just leave whatever in the bucket and reuse it until it is real nasty, then take to disposal. Back in the day i used to get poorly painted plastic model cars at garage sales and thrift stores and then soak them in brake fluid for a couple weeks to take off the paint, worked great. Repainted them up nice. Didn't work on glue thumbprints on the windows though.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
llucas Report post Posted December 7, 2015 . . . another good product: Chemtool. Spray it on, brush it with a brass brush, lubricate after clean -- Bobs your uncle! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted December 7, 2015 (edited) if you really (really really really) want to restore it I´d set up a big electrolysis bath tank and let it "cook" for a few days. Meanwhile this is my preferred method for removing rust and paint from old machines and parts with "not so nice" exterior. I have a squared 65 liter tub that works for machines up to a size of a 29K long arm or Adler 30-1. Therese are dozens of videos on youtube and information on Google so I don´t have to tell the story by my self. Edited December 7, 2015 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LumpenDoodle2 Report post Posted December 7, 2015 I'd be tempted to go down the electrolysis bath route. Purely because it doesn't look as if you can afford to lose any more metal. Parts for the 29K4 and earlier are quite difficult to replace, so you might want to consider not so much a restoration job, but a parts salvage operation. It might be worth considering using it as a donor machine, and removing and cleaning up as many parts as you can, then selling them to buy a better condition 29K . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Brosowski Report post Posted December 7, 2015 Wot Constabulary and Lumpen said! Electrolysis for two or three days will get the machine to the point where it can be much more easily disassembled. Some parts may need more time in the bath with a new sacrificial anode. Wash, dry and oil parts when they are done in the bath as the clean metal will quickly rust up again. It is easy to clean the oil off again for painting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted December 7, 2015 if you really (really really really) want to restore it I´d set up a big electrolysis bath tank and let it "cook" for a few days. Meanwhile this is my preferred method for removing rust and paint from old machines and parts with "not so nice" exterior. I have a squared 65 liter tub that works for machines up to a size of a 29K long arm or Adler 30-1. Therese are dozens of videos on youtube and information on Google so I don´t have to tell the story by my self. This is a great step for rusty but electrolysis can be hampered by greasy surfaces. Also makes the electrolyte dirty and nasty way faster, partly because oils float but electrolyzed metal oxides sink. I would actually soak it, wash it, and then either electro-zap it or dunk in evaporust. That stuff actually works pretty good. It does not offgas hydrogen like electrolysis, which can be a problem if it build up in a small space. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
