meganrakes Report post Posted January 15, 2016 Hi everyone, I am extremely new to leatherwork and all I can really learn from are videos and tutorials online. I feel like when I'm punching holes I end up tearing my leather, also that my stitching just never looks right. I would really like to make a wallet and I'm having an extremely hard time. Seems to be the only things I can make look good are purses with the hidden stitching inside! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
25b Report post Posted January 15, 2016 (edited) - YouTube - Nigel Armitage / Armitage Leather - "Saddle stitch in detail" video - Repeat watching until your stitching is as good as his (and yes, I've watched it dozens of times and still watch it occasionally because I'm not as good as he is yet...) The most important thing isn't to stitch exactly the same way he does (though it wouldn't hurt)...but to do every single stitch YOU do exactly, precisely, unwaveringly the exact same way on every single stitch every time. It take extreme discipline and attention to detail to be able to do this...and also to undo and redo 20+ stitches if you notice you made a stitch differently 20+ stitches ago. Until you get to the point where you can force yourself to do this, it will be difficult to perfect your stitching. Oh, and by "you", I don't necessarily mean you in particular...I mean the general "you" that is others looking to improve their hand stitching. Edited January 15, 2016 by 25b Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MonicaJacobson Report post Posted January 16, 2016 You might also be punching your holes too vertically - I think they should be a little more oblique. If your awl is tearing the leather, you might need to sharpen it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
byggyns Report post Posted January 20, 2016 You might also be punching your holes too vertically - I think they should be a little more oblique. If your awl is tearing the leather, you might need to sharpen it. I have to echo this. The awl is much too vertical. The diamond awl should have one facet parallel to the stitch line. This gives a really good angle to the stitches. Stohlman's book "Hand Stitching Leather" will give you a better illustration of the correct angle. The awl should be sharp enough to pierce your finger and you barely feel it. The same book will give you good tips on how to sharpen the awl. After it's sharpened, strop it well to polish the edge. I can push a wide awl through a 10oz piece of leather while just holding the piece in my fingers about 2" away from the awl. If your awl is a little small for the thread you are using, you can give the awl just a slight twist to widen the hole. If you sharpened the awl like Stohlman says: with a sharp point, but a dull shoulder, you won't permanently enlarge the hole & it will close back up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted January 21, 2016 I would also extend the stitch spacing for that thread size. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dangerous Beans Report post Posted March 4, 2016 Hi everyone, I am extremely new to leatherwork and all I can really learn from are videos and tutorials online. I feel like when I'm punching holes I end up tearing my leather, also that my stitching just never looks right. I would really like to make a wallet and I'm having an extremely hard time. Seems to be the only things I can make look good are purses with the hidden stitching inside! Sounds like you have been given some good advice here Megan. Yes, the holes are too severe for a nice angled stitch and the thread looks a little heavy. Some things that may help you out a little. Have a look at this iron, it will give you as decent angle: https://youtu.be/4d95CoY6sZQ This should help in understanding thread and needle size a little: https://youtu.be/TGuiha5S2oE and this one will help with sharpening your awl should you wish to stitch traditionally: https://youtu.be/wvY9beqObiQ hope that helps a little Nige Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted March 5, 2016 All the advice given is good. As a side note, there is an inexpensive book by Al Stohlman I believe it is called Hand stitching leather. It will help you get to where you want to be. By the way, in case you didn't catch it from the other posts, practice, practice, practice. Finally, you will never get the holes you want/need for good stitching with anything less than a really sharp awl. It tells in the book how to properly sharpen awls. Good Luck in you projects! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted August 4, 2016 I think Bob is talking about this one. https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/the-art-of-hand-sewing-leather-book That angled stitch seems to be more of a European thing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted August 5, 2016 I find myself doing practice runs before I start to stitch my project. It helps me get back into it and also gives me a heads up on whether my thread and hole size are going to look appropriate. I'm still new, and I don't get a lot of time to play, so I reintroduce myself to the stitching over and over again. Have fun. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plinkercases Report post Posted August 5, 2016 (edited) Stohlman's book has a wealth good practical directions on all kinds of projects and different stitching challenges. You can get it on lien as PDF for cheap from Tandy and page 8 illustrates the awl angle issues. Edited August 5, 2016 by plinkercases Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
