Members LoveToLearn Posted February 20, 2016 Author Members Report Posted February 20, 2016 No,you don't want the belt to slip,adj it so it has 1" of play,a smaller motor pulley 2" will help too. Ok will do Cowboy. Are bigger handwheel pulleys available also? Right now the pulleys look about equal in size. If I had a 2" motor pulley and 6" handwheel pulley thats 3:1 so my 1750 motor would be turning the machine at 583. I wonder how many stitches per minute that is. Is this doable? I thought about a speed reducer by they are a bit pricey and it looks like you have to move the motor mounts or the sewing machine so it is offset so the reducer pulley lines up with the handwheel pulley. Not sure I want to remount the motor an inch over. I cant see how else that would work. Thanks LoveToLearn Quote
Members dikman Posted February 20, 2016 Members Report Posted February 20, 2016 It shouldn't be too hard to find a suitable pulley, just find a place that sells pulleys and ask for one with the diameter you want, with the correct profile for your v-belt and the correct shaft diameter (which I'd say is 1/2"). You'll need one with locking screws/bolts. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
CowboyBob Posted February 20, 2016 Report Posted February 20, 2016 I'm not saying this because I sell them BUT a servo is the best way to go.When you use a clutchmotor you have to learn to pump the pedal,meaning once the machine starts sewing you need to leave up or else it'll take off,a servo runs a lot like a home machine when you press on the pedal & starts off slower & doesn't get away from you. Quote Bob Kovar Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd. 3631 Marine Rd Toledo,Ohio 43609 1-866-362-7397
Members LoveToLearn Posted February 25, 2016 Author Members Report Posted February 25, 2016 I took the cover off the back of the motor and removed the capacitor. I put a voltmeter across the terminals with the meter set at 600v ac and got no reading. Then I started the motor with no capacitor and it ran the same as it did before. So the capacitor was doing nothing. I think I need a new cap to tell the motor which way to start. I dont even know if the cap that was in there is the proper cap. I wish I could get some part numbers for the cap and the wearable clutch parts. I would have a good motor then. Then I need a small motor pulley which is 15mm bore and about 35 to 45 mm diameter 3V and a speed reducter which I will make. I have been wondering why guys with the servo motors also add speed reducers? I thought the servo motor provided totall speed control. LoveToLearn Quote
Moderator Art Posted February 25, 2016 Moderator Report Posted February 25, 2016 It does, but the speed reducer multiplies torque by 3. Art Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Members LoveToLearn Posted February 25, 2016 Author Members Report Posted February 25, 2016 No,you don't want the belt to slip,adj it so it has 1" of play,a smaller motor pulley 2" will help too. Ok. Is that 1" of play at the foot pedal or 1" between the clutch disc and the pressure plate? Thanks LoveToLearn Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted February 25, 2016 Moderator Report Posted February 25, 2016 Ok. Is that 1" of play at the foot pedal or 1" between the clutch disc and the pressure plate? Thanks LoveToLearn Belt play is usually measured half way between two end points. This means about half the distance from the motor pulley to the machine pulley. In practice, I usually set the play at table level, at the belt slot, behind the bobbin winder wheel. If you don't have a bobbin winder on the table, just figure where the 50% point is and push inwards on the belt. If it deflects between 1/2 and 1 inch, it has enough slack. If the belt slips, tighten it until it stops slipping. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members TinkerTailor Posted February 25, 2016 Members Report Posted February 25, 2016 (edited) I have been wondering why guys with the servo motors also add speed reducers? I thought the servo motor provided totall speed control. LoveToLearn When i got my 5100, it was set up on the middle pulley of the 3 step speed reducer. I had to slow the motor down all the way to get even close to stitch by stitch sewing. I found that when the motor was this slow, it lost modulation and was more like a 3 speed. After i switched to the smallest pulley, i turned up the motor quite a bit, now my slow speed is slower than was possible on the other pulley, however my top speed is faster and it is a way smoother transition from slow to fast. In other words, my motor can go slow, but it likes it a little faster. The speed reducer allows this. Plus the torque as Art said. Edited February 25, 2016 by TinkerTailor Quote "If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing." "There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"
Members dikman Posted February 25, 2016 Members Report Posted February 25, 2016 When i got my 5100, it was set up on the middle pulley of the 3 step speed reducer. I had to slow the motor down all the way to get even close to stitch by stitch sewing. I found that when the motor was this slow, it lost modulation and was more like a 3 speed. After i switched to the smallest pulley, i turned up the motor quite a bit, now my slow speed is slower than was possible on the other pulley, however my top speed is faster and it is a way smoother transition from slow to fast. In other words, my motor can go slow, but it likes it a little faster. The speed reducer allows this. Plus the torque as Art said. I've noticed the same thing with my servos, if I can increase the minimum speed setting of the motor while keeping the overall speed of the machine low then it runs smoother. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members LoveToLearn Posted February 25, 2016 Author Members Report Posted February 25, 2016 so servos need rpm to make power too then. When I read about servos they say in the ads that they make the same torque at every rpm but I always suspected that cant be true. Quote
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