indidana Report post Posted February 22, 2016 A customer of mine recently bought a POS holster on Amazon. The thing was still wet and transferred dye to his hands when he pulled it out of the box! So now he wants me to make him a new one. Problem is, I have NO clue how to make this holster he wants. He offered to send the POS to me to reverse engineer a new holster, but would rather return it and get his money back. So my question is this: Is there a pattern for this holster? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted February 22, 2016 What IS all that in the back I guess that's supposed to be able to be worn in space or under water I'd ask him where he wants to wear it and start with that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
indidana Report post Posted February 22, 2016 He says he wants it with all the wearing options. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted February 22, 2016 I don't understand the problem: cut the stitches, . . . remove the screw / rivet / stuff. Voila, . . . you have a pattern. It's actually looks like a takeoff of a Thad Ribka holster, . . . called a Rhodesian, . . . which are all considered to be great from what I've ever seen. I make a similar holster for small automatics, . . . it works really well for M&P Shields and smaller pistols. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
indidana Report post Posted February 22, 2016 Like I said, he wants to return the piece of crap and get his money back if I can find a pattern. Which is why I'm asking for help with a pattern. If I can save him the money he spent on this shitty thing, I want to do that. If I can't find a pattern, then I'll take the thing apart. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted February 22, 2016 My apologies, indidana, . . . I guess I missed the part about returning for his money back. Got any idea what he paid for it?? May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
indidana Report post Posted February 22, 2016 $40 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted February 22, 2016 Well, I certainly aint seeino way what keeps that varmint from cuminout the bottom end, do you? Otherwise, if'n that's a 5", I'd be fer figgerin' this here'll do it, or least ways purdy close Feller would hafta figger where to put teh tension screw (from preference) and where to locate the rivet hole, depending on IF you used a metal thumb break stiffener, otherwise ..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted February 23, 2016 If he is not going to wear it SOB, he does not need the long slots. If he's not ambidextrous he does not need any slots for weak hand carry. That leaves you with strong hand and cross draw as the only slots he would use. Which means a 3 slot pancake could solve his problem too. I got a request for one, talked him into a 3 slot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
indidana Report post Posted February 23, 2016 I'm not much into holster making. Where can I find a template for a 3 slot pancake? I don't think he'll go for it, he's pretty set on this one. He came to me about it months ago. Ended up buying it on amazon and now wants me to fix it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
indidana Report post Posted February 23, 2016 This is the holster he wants. I believe the guy he ordered from took a picture of the holster from a sportsmans website to pass off as his own. I emailed the company to see if they also sell on Amazon before I make any accusations. It's a pretty shitty thing to not only pass people's work off as your own, but to do a piss poor job on top of it. Oh! Unless this company does also sell (crappy) holsters on Amazon, this guy is using their company name, too. I've included the picture of the holster he thought he was getting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted February 23, 2016 OH.. well, to make my sketch work, raise the middle (center arc) by about 3/4" .. since apparently it's the leather up the grip that keeps the rig from falling through. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
indidana Report post Posted February 23, 2016 OH.. well, to make my sketch work, raise the middle (center arc) by about 3/4" .. since apparently it's the leather up the grip that keeps the rig from falling through.I apologize, I didn't even see you had linked to a pattern. Thank you! I'm probably making this much too difficult, but how do I use a pattern like that to achieve the holster he wants? Also, what is the tension screw? Is it necessary? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted February 23, 2016 Nothing to apologize for The 'tension screw' is that little thing on the corner.. probably has a rubber gasket between there (much like a washer on a bolt). Ordinarily, this is done so you can adjust the tension on the gun. The way this one is placed, it likely doesn't do anything other than decoration. I'm sure one or more of these boys can tell you where to get the best price on those if you decide to use one. Or maybe somebody just send you ONE? As for how to use this pattern.. purdy simple. VERY easy if you have the gun to work with. I usually put it on there, and this time didn't -- but I'd make that outta 7/8 leather, and that's what the lines are drawn assuming. It looks like theirs was thinner, but a full-size 1911 needs a little something to hold it ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
indidana Report post Posted February 23, 2016 I do have the gun to work with. This guy and my husband have the same gun so I can use my hubby's to work with. How do I add slots/belt loops? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted February 23, 2016 (edited) That's an extra piece stitched to the back (which appears to be much too thin and 'mooshy' to be safe (or even intelligent). But how big are the slots? I know he wants it to be able to do everything (perhaps including holding coffee?) but I don't like slots cut bigger than the strap. I've never used a SOB holster (like worn in the pic) and I'm not going to --- but "slop" in the slots I would think would be even worse with that use. Far as adding slots, just a matter of intelligent guess. I'd say those angled slots are about 20° off level ... Here's a re-make. I raised the top of the leather a bit to ride the grip like the picture, and I also lowered teh openeing under the trigger guard a bit, just eye-ballin' the picture. In actual practice, guy might cut some leather the right thickness, about 1/2" too wide. Fold in half, and set the gun in the fold (at the trigger guard). then just push the ends together and make a bit of a crease where they come together. That's where the stitch line goes. Another stitch line 1/8"- 3/16" past that, and the edge 1/8'-3/16" beyond that. Oh, wait.. I'll put a 'center line" in there..... Edited February 23, 2016 by JLSleather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted February 23, 2016 I do have the gun to work with. This guy and my husband have the same gun so I can use my hubby's to work with. How do I add slots/belt loops? Once you have the piece cut out for the front and the back, . . . lay it down and trace the back, . . . round cut the top of it like in the first picture you posted, . . . then punch and cut the slots just like in that same picture. OR: What I'll do sometimes, . . . is to play with my computer, . . . take a picture and make it 10% bigger (or smaller, depending on what I need) until I get it exactly the size I need so I can lay it down on a piece of dampened leather, . . . trace the outline and details with a ball stylus, . . . remove the paper, . . . go to cutting leather. I've used up a dozen sheets of paper from time to time, . . . but it has none the less been well worth it to get EXACTLY what I needed. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted February 23, 2016 1911_poo_R2.pdf Maybe that's better. This thing prints on ONE sheet of paper -- so no trouble there. Measure the line between the circles .. make sure you got 9" (which means it's right). Make sure your printer is set to "actual size" or 100% or whatever yours says (NOT "scale to fit"). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted February 23, 2016 (edited) Print the page. Measure the 9" line to make sure it's 9" long center to center. Fold and crease on fold line. Make another crease about 3/16" each side of the fold line (you should end up with a piece of paper shaped a bit like a very thin book, or notebook). Make a mark on the paper about 1/4" up from the bottom of the pattern (not bottom of the paper). Cut out the top of the pattern (remember to leave the right side tab long where shown). Place the gun with the trigger guard in the fold. Note where the gun grip meets the paper - you want to adjust up or down so that the gun muzzle is close to your mark you made near the bottom of the pattern. Close other side of paper (you can tape it if it helps). With the gun parallel to the straight side of the holster, cut the bottom curve to suit your taste. Cutting them together guarantees a left/right match. Now, if you're happy with the way that "sits", then it's just a matter of cutting your leather from that. Then use your paper pattern to make another "half" which you'll put slots in. Edited February 23, 2016 by JLSleather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted February 23, 2016 (edited) Did anybody else notice that I switched the male and female parts of the snap? PLUS, where's jason? If there ever was a spot for a flat-back holster, this is it Edited February 23, 2016 by JLSleather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
