Sewing Machine Needle Question

[Clintonville Leather]

I am new to using a sewing machine. The needle I am using is an Organ DPX16DIA 160/23. I am using #207 thread top and bottom. The needle works just fine but on veg tan the back side doesn't look so nice. Granted, I took a long time to learn to get a clean saddle stitch. The top side holes look precise but on the bottom it looks like the needle exploded through the leather. Am I being picky, is there a nicer needle to use or is this par for the course?

[OLDNSLOW]

I am sure those with far more experience will chime in, but photos always help. But as guess your tension might be, if the top tension is ok the bobbin tension might be off.

[Clintonville Leather]

Hello, the tension is set properly. The needle isn't producing a clean exit hole, maybe such a tool does not exist. Imagine if you were saddle stitching and you only put your awl through a little bit or your irons didn't penetrate fully. That is what it looks like. The holes on the bottom are smaller than the holes up top. I bet that was why Bob said it looked better with 138 on the bottom.

[Ole South]

A picture will let us see if what you are seeing is normal (probably) or a tension/needle problem. Machine stitch on the back of veg tan is kinda like an exit-wound. Mine never look like my saddle stitch on the flesh side. Have you run a gouge line down the flesh side? Doesn't look the same as the top grain... does it?

[JLSleather]

I'm no sewing guru, so if one or more of the 'sewing guys' pops in, pay no attention to me and do what THEY say

Generally, the "blow out" can be caused by a number of things. You have the right needle point, and #23 with #207 should be fine, so that shouldn't be a factor. But you can get that from a needle which is overly dull, or a feed dog or plate under the leather with a hole which is too large (allowing the leather to "flow" into the hole before piercing), or even speed can affect it.

If I have any issues, the needle is the first thing I check... since it's the quickest and easiest thing to eliminate. But machine stitching is just not going to look the same on the top and bottom.

[Clintonville Leather]

That sounds correct JLS I believe if the feed dog plate hole was tighter it would look better. I'll try and experiment with it. I am imagining this experiment will result in busted needles. Or maybe I should just try and raise the feed dog a little and grind it down more since I lowered it a hair to eliminate those marks.

What part of Iowa are you in? My buddy and I rode our bicycles to the West coast and Southern Iowa was a bitch with all those rolling hills. Super nice people though.

Cheers!

A gouge line certainly helped Ole South but it definitely has nothing to do with tension I got that adjusted per the manual.

[JLSleather]

Closer to South Dakota than Mo, but we got a couple hills up this way. Not the Black Hills, but hills ....

[Clintonville Leather]

We went through the Black Hills, saw Mount Rushmore and Devil's tower nice land out there. I really liked South Dakota but found that people drove 80 miles to their neighborhood bar! A big change from being in a "big" city like Columbus, OH. Have a good weekend.

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

I'm one of those 80mph drivers! Not really, but I do live in SD:-) For starters, I don't like the Organ needles I've tried. Is that number a diamond point needle? You might have better look with an s-point or twist point. Neater hole on the back side. Also, some veg-tan leathers sew neater than others. Cheaper leathers tend to get that messy, "torn-asunder" look on the back side. Sometimes I'll case the leather up a little before I sew it, and then slick it down good after sewing. Hope this helps. Edit: Ha I just re-read your comment on the SD drivers driving 80 miles to their neighborhood bar. I thought at first it said 80 mph to their neighborhood bar. Lmao. We DO have an 80 mph speed limit on our interstates now.

Edited February 27, 2016 by Big Sioux Saddlery

[JLSleather]

If you're driving 80 miles, there's certainly no reason not to stop at a bar

[Red Cent]

http://www.schmetzneedles.com/learning/pdf/leather-needles.pdf

[Lincoln]

Sometimes you have to tap down the seam with your cobblers hammer.  I always do  this with machine stitches and hand sewing.  This will smooth the surface and close the holes.