Stitching

[JRB]

You'll get a bunch of different answers to that question. Some like round (from drilling) some like diamond from awl. I prefer the awl for three main reasons. I like the way the stitches lay if they are done properly, two, the awl is easier to control where the point comes out of the back. This will give you as straight a line as the front, three, the holes seem to disappear with the proper awl and the proper thread.

Yes it's a little more work, but I'm more fond of the results.

So does the width of awl/haft go w/the seam or against the seam?

I also don't follow the angle. I read that most say to make the hole at a 90 degree but a few say 45 degree angle???

[Rawhide]

So does the width of awl/haft go w/the seam or against the seam?

I also don't follow the angle. I read that most say to make the hole at a 90 degree but a few say 45 degree angle???

I highly recommend you getting The Art of Handstitching, by Al Stohlman. Here is a scan of a page from that book. (pulled from the knifenetwork dot com site). It shows how to properly align your awl blade. I align mine 45 degrees in the other direction, but the principle still applies exactly the same.

[Shorts]

I second the handstitching book by Stohlman. It details the steps and has very good illustrations. That's how I got started. It takes a little practice to get smooth but once you do, you're set.

I prefer the awl punch compared to the drilled holes.

Edited December 16, 2008 by Shorts

[JRB]

I highly recommend you getting The Art of Handstitching, by Al Stohlman. Here is a scan of a page from that book. (pulled from the knifenetwork dot com site). It shows how to properly align your awl blade. I align mine 45 degrees in the other direction, but the principle still applies exactly the same.

Got it. Now it makes since.

I'm going to my local Tandy Factory today. They are offering tutorials from now til Christmas. While I'm there I'll see about the Stohlman book. Otherwise, maybe I'll hit the library (haven't been in there for awhile!).

Thanks guys!

[esantoro]

I need to get some CS Osborne awl blades from Weaver. Do you think the cs042 1.5"/1.2 mm diamond shank would be adequate for 277 and 346 bonded poly, or should I go for a thicker shank?

Ed

[D.A. Kabatoff]

Esantoro,

I'm not sure I'd bother with an Osborne awl, to start, they are the wrong shape being almost square instead of diamond. They will need alot of work to get them the proper shape, sharp enough to use smoothly and even more time to polish so that they glide through the work.

I think most people who have tried an awl blade from Bob Douglas of Sheridan, Wyoming would agree that there is nothing even close to comparable and they come completely ready to use. They make them in a couple sizes with small variation among those sizes as they are handmade. If you call Bob and tell him what size thread you are sewing with and what you are making, he'll be able to pick one out for you that is most suitable.

Darc

[gtwister09]

Esantoro,

I'm not sure I'd bother with an Osborne awl, to start, they are the wrong shape being almost square instead of diamond. They will need alot of work to get them the proper shape, sharp enough to use smoothly and even more time to polish so that they glide through the work.

I think most people who have tried an awl blade from Bob Douglas of Sheridan, Wyoming would agree that there is nothing even close to comparable and they come completely ready to use. They make them in a couple sizes with small variation among those sizes as they are handmade. If you call Bob and tell him what size thread you are sewing with and what you are making, he'll be able to pick one out for you that is most suitable.

Darc

I would have to double Ditto what Darcy said for sure on the Osborne and Douglas items. Bob's gear is WELL WORTH the money spent. I would have loved to find them first beforfe I started hand stitching. It would have saved some (actually a lot) of frustration.

Regards,

Ben

[celticleather]

For what it's worth, I'm a great fan of what I dare to call the 'classic' stitch! I believe that when hand-stitching, this can only be achieved by using the tried and tested traditional tools - the pricking iron and the diamond awl.

I really like to see the gently angled stitch that is formed when the thread pulls into each end of the diamond-shaped hole, but it is important that the awl should follow the angle formed by the teeth of the pricking iron.

I have occasionally used a 0.5mm drill when stitching stiff and dry harness-work, but before stitching I always follow up by pushing a diamond awl through the holes at 45º to the stitch line. It's a bit time-consuming, but I think it helps to maintain the 'hand-sewn' look.

I've posted the pic just to illustrate what I call a 'classic' stitch . . . but not everyone might agree!

[D.A. Kabatoff]

Celticleather,

I agree with you about the pricking irons and the resulting stitch. I often mark my horncaps and cantlebindings with a pricking iron and then follow the angle they set with my awl. Often people try and make their complete hole with the iron and really make a mess of it because the tool was not designed for that. The other problem is that it is very hard to get good pricking irons in North America and impossible to get the pormanteaus and people end up with cheap ones that don't help the task.

Darc

[celticleather]

Beautiful stitching, Darc! I'm glad I'm not alone in preferring the old-fashioned methods!

Pricking irons are fairly easy to obtain in the UK - a couple of suppliers who come to mind are Abbey Saddlery (http://www.abbeysaddlery.co.uk/product_listing.cfm?page=3) and Le Prevo (http://www.leprevo.co.uk/sewing.html).

While the British Pound is at a low against the dollar, perhaps you should import some and make an overnight killing!

Terry