Windrider30 Report post Posted February 29, 2016 Ok i know this has been asked a time or two (and maybe a time or two by me but short term memory problems and all that) but how the bloody hell do I stop a piece from bleeding? I have already put two coats of super sheen on the back of the bracelet http://imgur.com/a/ZD9nu, and yet the damn thing is still bleeding all over my wrist when I am sweating, as I do not want my customers to have this problem (its eco flow antique gel that I use) and I hate not dying the back of any thing as I feel it looks unfinished, so how do I stop the bleed effect, I put a coat on of sheen, let it dry over night, buff the hell out of it, put another coat on, let it dry then buff the hell out of it and yet it still bleeds. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tugadude Report post Posted February 29, 2016 Try Resolene, IMHO it is a much more effective sealer. Also, after you apply the dye and it has dried, buff it and buff it to remove any excess on the surface. Good luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Windrider30 Report post Posted February 29, 2016 I think i am going to have to break down and get a hold of some resolene as i keep seeing it mentioned on the boards here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thor Report post Posted February 29, 2016 First question would be, what kind of veg tan is it? Where is it from? Did you prepare the leather as necessary if it was overloaded with byproducts as many of them are, preventing proper dying... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Windrider30 Report post Posted February 29, 2016 8 to 9 oz veg tan tooling leather prepared as i always do normally dont have this much problem with dye bleed. I get a little untile i add the super sheen to the back side Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thor Report post Posted February 29, 2016 It doesn't really answer my questions. Anyhow, if I have a veg tan leather from some questionable source or I don't know what has been done to it I usually clean it with oxalic acid before I dye or finish it. With a bracelet like yours I'd burnish the flesh side first, or it will suck up too much dye. Unlike what many others recommend I don't use anything else then water for burnishing and I actually burnish it with the machine. Goes fast and even. After that I'd let it dry for a bit and dye it. On the other hand - do you really need to dye the flesh side? Wouldn't it be sufficient to just oil and finish it? The color isn't visible anyways. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tugadude Report post Posted February 29, 2016 Thor said... "On the other hand - do you really need to dye the flesh side? Wouldn't it be sufficient to just oil and finish it? The color isn't visible anyways." I think this is a reasonable solution. If the back side is clean, it should look fine. Also, if you dye a large piece, the edges will be clean when you cut out your shapes. You can leave them as-is on color and just burnish them. Or use Edge Kote or similar. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grmnsplx Report post Posted February 29, 2016 The antique gel is not recommended for the flesh side of the leather. Neither is the water based dye. So don't use those. In general those are not the most colour-fast things anyway. Oil dye is very colour-fast so you could switch to that. Even more colour-fast are the waterstains as they are acrylic based. I have hear that some people use the waterstains on the back of their leather and other dyes on the grain side. So if you are really stuck on dying the back then that may be an option. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thor Report post Posted February 29, 2016 The antique gel is not recommended for the flesh side of the leather. Neither is the water based dye. So don't use those. In general those are not the most colour-fast things anyway. Oil dye is very colour-fast so you could switch to that. Even more colour-fast are the waterstains as they are acrylic based. I have hear that some people use the waterstains on the back of their leather and other dyes on the grain side. So if you are really stuck on dying the back then that may be an option. I must have missed the part about the antique gel. Seconded what he wrote. The gel isn't waterproof at all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Windrider30 Report post Posted February 29, 2016 I use water based dyes for a few reasons, main reason being its safer to use around my dogs then the oil based stuff. And normally speaking I have not had this much problems with a bracelet as I dye all my bracelets front and back as I do not like the back to be unfinished for anything (even purses and wallets) I think it looks unfinished. Might try the burnished part idea wise, though it will be done by hand as I do not use any machines in the making of any and all products that I do make, from leather to chainmail and to the paracord whips I have started to make. Even the stitching is done by hand (and on large projects that does suck up a LOOOT of time lol) Thanks for the ideas though . Normally speaking 2 to three coats of super sheen blocks the leather from dying but some reason I am just having problems with this one bracelet. Though I think (key word think) I have solve this with a third coat of super sheen and a good buffing + coating of aussie condisiner which I forgot to add (I use that on all my leather!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grmnsplx Report post Posted February 29, 2016 Lets' just back up here. Is it the flesh side or the grain side of the leather that's bleeding dye? Also, what makes you say that the water based dyes are any safer than the "oil" dyes (which are alcohol based)? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tugadude Report post Posted February 29, 2016 You can also treat the backs with Tan Kote. That and a glass burnisher does a good job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grmnsplx Report post Posted February 29, 2016 You can also treat the backs with Tan Kote. That and a glass burnisher does a good job. I would say that this makes things worse. Just my experience. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Windrider30 Report post Posted February 29, 2016 For a bracelet you really do not want to use a glass burnisher. I use one on belts and a few other projects but i find that using a glass burnisher makes the leather get way to stiff for the proper flex that a bracelet needs Grain side if the brain is working right after a 2 k walk with the dog lol (back side non smooth side and people ssay walking is good for my brain doestn work!!!)is the bleed problem Oh and water based a:cleans up a lot easier off clothing hardwood floors and other accidents the oil based (found this out the hard way more than once)and the oil based dyes just have a lot harder chems in it then the eco flow that i prefer to use (only oil based dye i use is fiebings ox blood LOVE that color!!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tugadude Report post Posted March 2, 2016 Not arguing, but I guess it depends upon how stiff the leather is to begin with. I made a bracelet for personal use and I finished it with a sealer and glass burnisher and it is perfect to me. YMMV. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Harry Marinakis Report post Posted March 16, 2016 The problem might be superficial dye that remains on the surface of the leather. I use a damp sponge and wipe down the leather over and over until I don't get any more dye on the sponge. Never had any problem with bleeding or staining of clothes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
