Members steveleather Posted March 8, 2016 Members Report Posted March 8, 2016 After researching quite a bit I am still Very undecided on what model machine I should choose. I have a variety of leather from 8/9 oz veg tan to 1 oz lining leather. I would like to use the machine for belts, wallets , holsters, vests, chaps, bags, upholstery etc so my projects vary. I was leaning towards a heavy duty such as the cobra class 4 but fear it's too heavy duty for thinner leathers and other fabric. Any opinions on whether I should choose a heavy duty like the cobra, or should I choose a med duty style. Keeping in mind I would like to see two layers of 8/9 oz veg tan and also desire the ability to sew reverse, edges of wet molded holsters so need to be able to sew in close quarters And want a servo motor Quote
Members Sonydaze Posted March 8, 2016 Members Report Posted March 8, 2016 I'm not optimistic that you will find one machine to encompass all of your sewing needs well. You probably need to think about two machines or prioritize what is most important for you to sew and get a machine that does that part well. Servo motors are great, if the machine(s) you get don't have them already, it is easy to change them over from a clutch motor. Quote http://www.bound2please.com Sewing machines: 3 - Sunstar 590BL, Artisan Toro 3200, Juki LK-1900HS, Juki DDL-8500-7, Juki DDL-5550N, Pfaff 138-6/21, Pfaff 546-H3, Pfaff 335-H3, Adler 221-76, Singer 144WVS33, Singer 29K-51, Siruba 747B
Members steveleather Posted March 8, 2016 Author Members Report Posted March 8, 2016 Thank you, thats my struggle I wish there was one that did all but have come to realize I will probably need 2 Thank you, thats my struggle I wish there was one that did all but have come to realize I will probably need 2 Quote
Members dikman Posted March 8, 2016 Members Report Posted March 8, 2016 Sonydaze is right, there is no "one size fits all" when it comes to sewing machines. Edges of holsters can be pretty thick, depending on style, and need a bit of grunt to get through, as well as suitable clearance under the feet. A machine that can do that is going have trouble with light material. Looking at what you want to do, I would think a heavy duty flat bed and a lighter cylinder arm might do, but I'm sure other, more experienced users should be able to be more specific. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members steveleather Posted March 8, 2016 Author Members Report Posted March 8, 2016 Ok thank you both, this seems to be the consenses Quote
mikesc Posted March 8, 2016 Report Posted March 8, 2016 (edited) I would think a heavy duty flat bed and a lighter cylinder arm might do,I'm certainly not "more experienced" compared to many ( allright ..almost everyone here ) here ..But I'd have thought that was a typo.. "heavy duty flatbed" ? Surely a "heavy duty cylinder arm" walking foot( punch through almost anything, and handle any shapes, and can have "table" added ) and a "medium weight flat bed"..walking foot.. ( for "garments" and simple "non enclosed" stuff like medium weight belts etc )..? How often would you need to punch through half to three quarters of and inch ( or more ) on a flatbed..? I run leather garments ( prototypes ) on flat beds ( one industrial compound feed, and one "heavy domestic double feed"..and another industrial flatbed doublefeed)..and am in the market for a heavy cylinder arm compound feed ( again for prototypes )..Plus..I just bought a patcher ( 29K51 ).. ( I blame Constabulary for the latter;) ) Just because..and it is the subliminal effect of reading his "sig"..or that is what I told my wife Edited March 8, 2016 by mikesc Quote "Don't you know that women are the only works of Art" .. ( Don Henley and "some French painter in a field" )
Members Sonydaze Posted March 8, 2016 Members Report Posted March 8, 2016 You might want to go though the different items that you want to sew and evaluate what machine would be best for each of them...hopefully a pattern will evolve that shows you what what type and how heavy to buy. Over time I have ended up with 5 different machines that I use frequently and 5 more different types that I use occasionally. Quote http://www.bound2please.com Sewing machines: 3 - Sunstar 590BL, Artisan Toro 3200, Juki LK-1900HS, Juki DDL-8500-7, Juki DDL-5550N, Pfaff 138-6/21, Pfaff 546-H3, Pfaff 335-H3, Adler 221-76, Singer 144WVS33, Singer 29K-51, Siruba 747B
Members brmax Posted March 9, 2016 Members Report Posted March 9, 2016 I have some of the same considerations, with some flatbeds running 92. So what comes to mind for me is thread change, and that's if the machine will use it "easily". I find the cylinder arms will for the most part or any with shuttle will use many larger sizes, I think as a green horn anyway. But how much of a pain is tension setting and really! can the hd springs ease off enough for say 92 for doing some other task I do. That's where I'm at and seriously interested in your great question, I think it can be a universal question for cyl or flat bed machines. great question Floyd Quote
Members pcox Posted March 9, 2016 Members Report Posted March 9, 2016 Cowboy 3200 & consew 1206rb Quote
Members steveleather Posted March 9, 2016 Author Members Report Posted March 9, 2016 Ok Yes i have samples to test. This question is totally Blind there may be a thread already but what are pros and cons of cylinder bed vs post bed Ok Yes i have samples to test. This question is totally Blind there may be a thread already but what are pros and cons of cylinder bed vs post bed Quote
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