Seeking Most Well Rounded Compound Feed Walking Foot Machine

[steveleather]

Pcox, funny u mention that I have those two specific models written down as potential candidates

[dikman]

Mikesc, you're quite right. It's not a typo, though, 'cos that's how my brain was working when I wrote it (!), but I must admit that afterwards it occurred to me that doing a thick holster edge on a flatbed would be difficult if the work had a curve in it, like a Western holster.

So yes, a heavy duty cylinder arm and a light-medium flat bed makes more sense (and even a lightweight straight stitcher could be useful at times).

Hmm, that's three, perhaps I'd better shut up!

Steve, no comparison between the two! Most of the post beds that I've seen have a roller wheel instead of a presser foot, and you really want a walking foot for leather work. Post beds are probably more specialized than cylinder arms (shoe uppers, hat bands etc) and tend to run lighter thread. In my (limited) experience mine doesn't like thick leather at all! Stick to a cylinder arm.

[steveleather]

What about presser feet leaving marks, do people stick with smooth feet I feel veg tan could be ruined potentially

[nascenta]

Hi all. I've arrived at the same place in my research. I'm going to do what dikman has suggested. I am buying an old singer 31-47 as my straight stitcher (picking it up Saturday for $300 cnd) and then acquire a cylinder arm when i can afford it. There is a pfaff 335 in my area that has tempted me but at $1900 cnd, I can't swing it!

The driver for these purchases is a wife who is tired of me testing the limits of her beloved Bernina 801 and a small budget.

PS. This forum has great people. Thank you one and all. Your posts have been a godsend for my decision making.

Edited March 9, 2016 by nascenta

[brmax]

Its not in any way an easy decision it requires a choice, and we all either new or seasoned leather workers will do or have did it.

Focusing on shuttle style as again, never put one in my hand, I see 69-415 and 69-277 this adjustment is great but no matter to change thread requires tension and possibly hook adjustment.

I'm thinking flat beds here so correct me please if hook is not generally adjusted and where in the range can I be free of it.

Where I was heading there is the long and short arm is only a choice for length for projects and I really need to select leather weights or make a tension change. ( basically, I understand leather conditions can be optimized with experience )

I'm really where a cylinder arm is needed but choosing between beneficial use in my present work or more in some desired leather work. For example using 92 thread and changing to 277 for next day needs and then back following day, I'm confident I can do it just haven't yet so a tip here can help.

Hope not to screw up the thread here or jack it all up, making the choice with a bit more knowledge sure makes it easier for myself.

Good day there

Floyd

Edited March 9, 2016 by brmax

[Wizcrafts]

What about presser feet leaving marks, do people stick with smooth feet I feel veg tan could be ruined potentially

No matter what the brand and transport mechanism, narrow presser feet will always leave a more visible track than a wider set. This is the physics of downward pressure applied to differing surface areas. Further, if the presser and alternating feet on a walking foot machine have sharp squared bottom edges, the tracks are more obvious than a set that is chamfered and buffed to a shine.

Hard leather is more resistant than soft top grain leather is to marking from the feet. Dry is more resistant than moist leather.

What can be done to reduce the marking on top?

Use the smallest needle and thread that gets the job sewn properly. Bonded nylon and polyester thread is rated in pounds of pull before it breaks. If you are sewing a wallet, you can do it with 11 pound test #69 bonded nylon thread, using a #18 leather point needle. You could also choose to use #138 thread and a #23 needle, requiring much higher overall tension and foot pressure. Sure, it looks more impressive. But, it takes more ergs of energy to get it done.

So, by using the least good size of thread and needle you can also reduce the thread tensions and the foot pressure. Less marking, but still well stitched.

QED.

[dfrensdorff]

I was in your same boat ........ bought the Cowboy 3200 ...... a very nice machine that worked perfectly for wallets, spur straps, belts, guitar straps and the like......I did have a need for a flat bed for as I make waxed canvas and leather tool rolls......ended up with a Ferdco 206HL (which is essentially the same machine as a Consew 206RB) ....... I know you are looking for one machine that will fit the bill for everything, but not sure it exists...you will be sacrificing something on either end of the spectrum.........Don

[steveleather]

How about the Cb227R Medium Weight Sewing Machine Cylind...

A company rep suggested this, how does this machine weigh in

[Wizcrafts]

How about the Cb227R Medium Weight Sewing Machine Cylind...

A company rep suggested this, how does this machine weigh in

This has a standard compound feed walking foot mechanism. It sews firm materials ranging from about 2 ounces up to about 24 ounces, with thread sizes 69 through 138. The seller may be able to tweak the shuttle clearances to let it clear #207 thread. This would probably make it sloppy and iffy with smaller thread.

[Darren Brosowski]

The 31 is great for the light work and is the second best flat bed Singer built - the 42-5 is the best.

For heavier work with thicker thread a CB3200 or CB4500 is the other machine you need.

Sewing machines are like any other tool - no one tool does all jobs - so you need more than one.