Used Consew 206rb or new Highlead GC0618-1S

[olie]

I'm looking for a machine to make bags and wallets with. A friend has an older Consew 206rb. Not sure if it's rb-1, 2, 3 or what. It's got white paint, so it's not the original 206rb. It's got a clutch motor and no speed reducer. He wants $800 for it. After I add a servo motor and/or speed reducer, it'll end up costing almost as much as a new machine. Should I buy it or buy something new? Looking at a Highlead GC0618-1S that I can buy new locally. I have not tried a walking foot machine at all, so I don't know what it's like to sew with either type of motor. I do know that I want to be able sew slowly. Thanks in advance for you help!

[brmax]

Many machine suppliers have the added option of a servo motor, also "some" will be able to install a speed reducer option if needed. Though the speed could be even slower not likely any need of the added power on the wallets.

The servo is a good choice "with" a small pulley like 50mm. The local business with your pickup and little if any shipping is going to be your great benefit.

Your machine could easily be set properly for the max thread size you can use, initially and followed up with your 2nd visit for a sew off with materials as expected to use.

Not to be harsh on the biz or your friend so keeping focused on the usage and financial undertaking with this makes it smooth.

Older machines taken care of are always on the minds of people here on the site, one is like having one pair of shoes and fine but boots and basketball suc

Keep us posted

Floyd

[Darren Brosowski]

The problem is that most older machines are second, third or fourth hand old so unless you know a lot about what to look for and the price difference between old and new is significant it is difficult to suggest buying an old machine privately.

Generally a good second hand machine would have to be half the new price to justify the lack of warranty and support.

Keep in mind I am a dealer so my view may be biased.

 

 

[dikman]

Olie, I have several old machines, all of which have required varying degrees of work and parts to get working. I have probably been lucky in that none of them have required junking. Unless you're mechanically inclined, and enjoy the challenge of keeping a (probably) very old machine going then I would advise caution if considering a used machine. At the price you're talking about you'd be far better off buying new (or almost new) from a reputable dealer. It could save you a lot of grief.

[Northmount]

You can buy second hand machines from the dealers too if they have one in stock that suits your needs.  Some will put you on their list if they don't have one currently in stock and you can afford to wait.

Tom

 

[olie]

Here's where i'm at. The new machines from shops that are set up and ready to go, are all at least $1500. There is a Consew P1206RB that is in box un-assembled with servo motor for $1195. That one doesn't seem to get very good reviews due to the poor auto oiling system. Plus, i don't know what I'm doing, seems best to get a machine that at least someone has used and made to work. Here's some pics of the used one and the link to the new one. Again, thanks so much for your advice and opinions!

 

https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/fod/5540462455.html

[olie]

I have more pics

 

Edited April 25, 2016 by olie
added pics

[olie]

I was wrong, there are good reviews of the P120RB auto oiling system from slow sew-ers.

[Dougster]

I'm no expert yet, but that doesn't look like a 206rb, rb1 or rb2.  The one I have has a chrome lever sticking out of the front of the machine that you lift up to put the machine into reverse.  The one in your pictures looks like it has the lever that you push down.  My machine also has the bobbin on the left side of the needle, in a vertical position, instead of the horizontal position on the right of the needle in those pictures...

[olie]

I think it is actually a 226, not sure if that makes it a better or worse deal for me.

[Constabulary]

I would not buy the 206 for $800 - maybe $500-$600 but not more because you for sure will end up with installing a servo motor for approx $150 and since the paint on the flat bad is worn of it has seen extensive use. But that does not mean the machine is worn off.

Advantage of the Consew 206 is that you can load the bobbin from the top (horizontal hook). This is (for me) by far more comfortable that tilting back the machine all the time when you wan to change the bobbin. And if I remember correctly the horizontal hook machines can handle thicker thread than the vertical hook machines.

Personally I would buy the Consew + new servo motor if the price is right.

Edited April 26, 2016 by Constabulary

[Wizcrafts]

Ollie, the price you saw for a P1206 is a little high, especially if it is in a box and needs to be fully assembled and adjusted. One of our member dealers offers brand new Consew P1206RB machines, fully setup with a servo motor, adjusted and sewn off, shipped on a pallet, for just under a thousand dollars.They also carry new 206RB-5 machines, also complete, for about thirteen hundred. Others may also carry these machines at similar prices..

[Constabulary]

Olie, your friends machine seems to be a Consew 226 not a 206

[Darren Brosowski]

Constabulary I have two issues with your post.

1/ Why would you lift up a machine to change the bobbin? On a vertical shuttle machine you just reach in and pull the bobbin case out.

2/ I here all sorts of opinions about the differences between vertical and horizontal shuttles but they are generally both rated for a maximum of M20. The advantage of a vertical, replaceable bobbin case is that it is a lot cheaper to replace when it wears - particularly if you try to push through heavier bonded nylon threads.

 

 

[mikesc]

I'm wondering if there isn't some confusion ( there certainly used to be in my mind ;-)) about what is meant by "vertical" and "horizontal" bobbin..neither term seems to refer to the actual way the bobbin "sits" or "lays".."vertical bobbins" lay on their back..( parallel to the machine bed and the surface of the planet *) which to any rational person would make them actually horizontal ( when you lay on your back are you vertical or horizontal in relation to your bed or the surface of the planet )..and "horizontal bobbins" stand on their side ( at 90 degrees to the machine bed and the surface of the planet *) which would ( again to any rational person ) make them actually vertical ..

The axis of the horizontal bobbin ( which can be accessed by sliding a plate on the bed ) is vertical in relation to the machine bed..and the axis of a vertical bobbin ( which can usually be easily reached by putting one's hand under the bench ( at least on my juki490 it can, without tilting the machine back ) is horizontal..To my "logical mind" the bobbin on my Juki 490 is actually "vertical" ( it is standing up ), wheras the bobbin on my singer 211 is actually "horizontal"..( it is lying down )..To my artistic/designers mind..it is all relative ;-)..

I now view the sewing machine "terms" ( and the fact that thread sizes get bigger in some systems and smaller in others as they increase in thickness ) as like those of French grammar..<= arcane and weird and usually inconsistent..but they are what I have to deal with.. :)

[Wizcrafts]

Mikesc;

Terms were developed by the manufacturers and are standardized. It may seem backwards to us users, but dealers, importers and parts suppliers use these descriptions in common to avoid confusion. You are free to personally refer to the axis of the bobbin any way you wish. But, if you contact a dealer, or replacement parts supplier and they ask whether your machine has a vertical of horizontal bobbin, use the manufacturer's designation. Otherwise, you may get the wrong parts.

To clarify, using manufacturer's designations, the horizontal and vertical axis's refer to the position of the final shaft that drives the shuttle in which the bobbin resides. If that shaft runs lengthwise under the body and the shuttle and driver is connected to the left end and sits under the bed, or inside the cylinder arm of the machine, it is a Horizontal Axis bobbin system. If the drive mechanism uses gears to drive a shaft at a right angle, coming straight up to drive the shuttle and the bobbin is dropped in from the top, it is a Vertical Axis machine. The axis of the drive shaft for the shuttle is the deciding factor.

[mikesc]

Like I said..I know what the correct terms are..but when one begins.those two are illogical.."they" say "horizontal bobbin" or "vertical bobbin"..whereas they would be far more descriptive ( and accurate ) if they said horizontal axis / or horizontally driven bobbin, and, vertical axis / or vertically driven bobbin..kind of like car engines which most people refer to as "in the front" or "in the rear"..whereas the accurate description would also include the words transversal mounting or longitudinal mounting..

BTW..here ( France ) all sewing machines are referred to as a "Piqueuse" ( pronounced pickurz )..and are "simple entrainement",( bottom feed ) "double entrainement" ( top and bottom feed ) and "triple entrainement" ( walking foot , compound feed ) ..most sewers ( pro or not ) and most dealers , don't specify which of the three they are talking about, even in their small ads / advertising .."jump foot" and other "exotics" all get lumped in with "triple entrainement"..wastes a lot of one's time when buying ( visiting machines which are not as described ) and makes ordering spares a nightmare, so I order everything, except needles from outside of France..Thus also saving myself having the prices of spares multiplied by 3 or more by the French dealers..
eg; a small bobbin for a 29K51 is over $250.oo here !! Hirose hooks start at around $500.oo..and new machines if bought from French dealers are 2 times the UK or German price, ( both countries have around the same VAT rate as we do ) and 3 times the US price.

[mikesc]

Btw..I'd add that although there are fora here ( in French obviously ;-) which are frequented by pro sewers and pro leather workers, I have never seen any evidence at all of any French sewing machine dealers, or spare parts dealers, jumping in to offer help or advice like the dealers do on this forum..Here nless you have cash in your hand they offer no advice, and once the machine is out the door they go deaf..This place , Leatherworker.net, is a real breath of fresh air and a goldmine for anyone who can read English, thanks to all the pros and the dealers who post here :)