2 Tone

[Josh Ashman]

Just finished this up and thought it turned out pretty nice.

[kiwican]

very nice

[SLP]

That is beautiful work! Also, that glisten along the edges did not go unnoticed. Very nice!

[Josh Ashman]

Thanks Kiwican & SLP!

[particle]

Nice looking rig! Love the colors.

[24VOLTS]

Looks real GOOD!  Very Nice!

What sewing machine are you using?

Thanks,

Phill

[Josh Ashman]

Thanks Particle & 24VOLTS!

I'm using a Cobra class 4 and I really like it!

 

[Toney]

Very nice

[Forester]

Real nice, what finish do you have on it.

Forester

 

[Josh Ashman]

Thanks!

Forester, the brown is some drum dyed that I picked up from SLC a while back. The tan is Fiebings cut to 2 parts dye with 1 part rubbing alcohol applied with a scrap of shearling. A very light coat of neatsfoot oil that sat overnight to "soak" in. Followed by a dunk in 50/50 Mop& Glo and water. Once that is dry I rubbed a very small amount of Kiwi neutral polish on with my finger tips and buffed it off with a soft cloth.

 

[Forester]

Hi Josh.

Thanks for that, I am also a woodworker and after I have made my project and I am happy with it, it's time to apply the finish, many a project was ruined by the finish not looking right, and its the same with my leather work, I am really careful on what finish I put on. I have still to find the right finish for me, I want my holsters to have a nice sheen but still don't know what to use. What is mop and glo?

Regards Forester

[Josh Ashman]

Forester,

It's a no-wax floor cleaner/polish. I use it in place of Resolene as it's cheaper and readily available here in the States, you can find it in about any store that sells household cleaners. I don't use it on my "western" rigs, but doe use on "carry" holsters and gear. For my western type holsters and tack I use NF oil followed by Aussie wax and liquid glycerin saddle soap. The primary difference being whether I want a "rigid" finish product, like a carry holster, or a softer finish like a western rig. 

Everybody has different thoughts on this and what's "right" for me may not be "right" for you. Good luck finding what works for you!

All the best, Josh

[Forester]

I have got resolene but I am not sure how to use it, so not used it yet, don't want to ruin my work.

Regards Forester

[Red Cent]

Trying not to confuse the public...............To add to Josh's remarks, competition SASS/western holsters need to be very stiff. They need to retain their rigidity to maintain a small amount of retention. I do not mold the western holster allowing the front edges of the cylinder to provide friction/retention and a little friction from the tip of the barrel and ejector rod. No saddle soap, glycerin, and a very light wipe down with NeatsFoot Oil is the extent of conditioning.

The Cowboy Fast Draw Association (CFDA) holsters must be very stiff. To be competitive, the cylinder must turn free in the holster since the gun is cocked in the holster before it clears leather. Different world of holster making

[Forester]

Hi Red Cent.

Just looked at your facebook page, beautiful work, puts mine to shame.

Regards Forester

[Josh Ashman]

Good input Red! Yes, thank you for clarifying that! A competition cowboy action rig has about as much in common with the "western" rigs I make as a bronc saddle does with a wade saddle. Different things for different purposes.   

[klaykrusher]

Josh, that is real nice looking!  

Question on the holster build process, do you apply the color, stitch and then mold?  Basically just wondering how you keep the dye off the thread and changing its color.

Also, wondering why the saddle soap as a last finish step in your western rigs, just wondering what the benefit is.  

Appreciate it!

Edited June 5, 2016 by klaykrusher
Edit

[Josh Ashman]

Thanks Klaykrusher!

My process is; cut out, tool/carve (if there is any), dye, glue, sand edges, sew, bevel & dye edges, mold, top coat. If I want the stitching the same color as the leather I move the dye step back to right before it get's molded. 

I like to use glycerin saddle soap on my western rigs and tack because it seems to shine up the right amount. It also leaves the leather feeling an smelling the way I like. I'll spay a little on a scrap of shearling then sometimes wipe that across a bar of SS as well, then rub it into the leather, let it sit for a while and buff it off with a soft cloth. 

All the best, Josh

[JLSleather]

Late to the party on this one.  That looks NICE, which we are used to from you!

 

 

[Josh Ashman]

Thanks JLS!

[rgepting]

Josh,

  I have always like your work. very clean.

[plinkercases]

Great work and thanks fro the finishes discussions folks. Mop'n'Glo... who would have thought?