Singer 29-4 repair

[ndnchf]

I have not looked at the bottom end beside removing the bobbin and case, then watching the hook revolve back and forth. There does not seem to be much side to side movement of the hook. Can you tell me specifically what to look for? Photos would be helpful. Thanks.

[RockyAussie]

@Sovran81 I Did do the hole through and quite a lot of other as well and like you was convinced it would work BUT the top thread has to be able to completely go over the bobbin some how or you get a chain stitch which is all I could ever get. If there were a way of doing it, it would be worth millions I know. Please study the full process before spending to much on it. Trust me I wish you the best of Luck.

[LumpenDoodle2]

On 12 June 2016 at 8:32 PM, Constabulary said:

I have not worked on a 29-4 but a 29K-3 (the K probably makes a difference). I have installed new bell crank levers to older 29K´s and I´m sure the the feed motion ring slide works too but both may need some smaller modifications. You at least have to grind down the ring on the outside of the BCL a little bit. But as I said I´m not 100% positive the the 29K is using the exact same parts as the 29 (w/o K). You probably have to compare parts lists. But I would guess the parts are the same.

I actually have a 29K3 parts machine because I had two 29K3 with broken parts (same as yours) so I made one machine out of them - let me know what you need and I will check if I have the parts.

Where are you located?

I think the letter after the model number denotes where the Singer was made (K - Kilbowie, Scotland,  A - Anderson,  South Carolina, USA, etc).

Edited June 17, 2016 by LumpenDoodle2

[Constabulary]

I´d buy the parts new and modify them, thats for sure the better deal on the long view.

I once restored a 29K1 maybe the thread is helpful for you:

 

[ndnchf]

1 hour ago, Constabulary said:

I´d buy the parts new and modify them, thats for sure the better deal on the long view.

I once restored a 29K1 maybe the thread is helpful for you:

 

Thank you Constabulary - that thread is very, very helpful. I've been wondering about parts interchangeability between the different 29 models, your photos helped. Could you explain how you modified the new bell crank lever? Was it grinding down some of the added webbing at the 90 degree corner? I looked at College Sewing's web site - wow they have just about everything, I wish they were on my side of the pond. Thanks Steve

[Constabulary]

College Sewing ships worldwide AFAIK. Not sure how much they charge for shipping to the US but shipping for small orders is around 8 GBP to Europe. But most parts you need are available on Ebay.com too. Or check with dealers who have add banners on top of this site.

I grind down the rounded sides the way that the BCL moves freely up and down just like the old part when mounted to the revolving handle. Maybe you have to grind down some spots on the revolving handle too. This is a bit of trial an error. I think I have mounted it 5 or 6 time until it worked. A Dremel tool is very helpful for this.

 

[Sovran81]

I wont say that college sewing freight to the USA is cheap but considering they are new parts many of which can not be found over here, it is reasonable. Be aware all prices are in British pounds so the exchange rate makes them a little more expensive.

[Sovran81]

12 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

@Sovran81 I Did do the hole through and quite a lot of other as well and like you was convinced it would work BUT the top thread has to be able to completely go over the bobbin some how or you get a chain stitch which is all I could ever get. If there were a way of doing it, it would be worth millions I know. Please study the full process before spending to much on it. Trust me I wish you the best of Luck.

I understand what you mean about the top thread looping over the bobbin to form the knot. I tried watching it last night without the needle plate in place and the bobbin kept popping out before a stitch was formed. I will have to make a plexi needle plate so I can see whats happening. I know the thread cant get around the hook because of the shaft and I dont see how it can get between the hook and bobbin holder to form that loop. I guess it will have to wait until I cut out the clear needle plate and watch it work.

[mikesc]

ATM ( due to concerns about "Brexit" ) the UK pound has fallen in value somewhat, making things cheaper if ordered from outside the UK..If the UK votes to leave the EU, the pound will probably ( IMO and that of many observers ) fall much more.. are you a "betting person" ;)

ps..That isn't a "political judgement"..but as someone who has businesses registered both in the EU ( France ) and the UK..I watch currency movements and UK, EU "events" as they affect me and how much I pay , am paid..

Edited June 17, 2016 by mikesc

[ndnchf]

Thanks guys.

I decided to assemble the BCL and motion ring parts I bought to the head assembly to see how much wear I have. I set it up with a dial indicator at the very tip of the BCL so I could measure total movement (slop) of the fit between the ring and BCL nub that fits in the ring. With my finger I moved it back and forth. Total movement was .020". There had to be some manufacturing tolerance when new, maybe .010"? If that is the case, wear to the tip of the BCL is about .010". So is .020" total movement at the tip considered excessive? That doesn't seem bad to me. It would be nice to know what the slop is with new parts as a reference point. Thanks!