Stitching and punching?

[bikermutt07]

 

The awl is an essential part of hand stitching and learning how to use it takes some time. Something that you have to have some patience with. The pricking irons are meant to provide a nice path for your awl to finish the hole for your thread. Matching the awl blade size to the needle and thread is essential in getting a nice looking stitch. The exception being thin leather. 

That tandy crap is the reason people have big holes that detract from there stitching. 

The biggest issue people face with awl's is that they dont get them sharp and polished which makes stabbing the leather difficult which leads to pokes and what not. A properly sharpened awl will cut thru a 1/4" of leather without much effort. Watch some of armetage videos or some of the other good ones out there. 

Wait a minute..... There are different awl sizes to sort out as well? Well that explains a little more of the mystery.

Dang it.

[MADMAX22]

 

Wait a minute..... There are different awl sizes to sort out as well? Well that explains a little more of the mystery.

Dang it.

Different length awl blades, usually the shorter ones are narrower/longer are thicker somewhat. It is up to you to fine tune the size. Also not having the edges to sharp after the first part of the awl so your spreading the leather more then cutting it. That allows the leather to close up around the thread some but ya gotta watch and see how guys do the stitching where they poke the leather pull out the awl and the needle goes right in. 

[bikermutt07]

 

Different length awl blades, usually the shorter ones are narrower/longer are thicker somewhat. It is up to you to fine tune the size. Also not having the edges to sharp after the first part of the awl so your spreading the leather more then cutting it. That allows the leather to close up around the thread some but ya gotta watch and see how guys do the stitching where they poke the leather pull out the awl and the needle goes right in. 

I'll keep trying.

[billybopp]

Not only are there different lengths and widths of awls, there are also different blade shapes to sort through.  

 

Below, you'll see a few different awls, presented over a thick double layer of leather edge on, as you'd have is you were sewing it.  

On blade profile:

The left one is a piece of crap expensive Tandy 4 in 1.  It is the classic saddler's awl shape, which to me looks like a spear point.  Mine is probably sharpened a little pointier than the classic, but as you can see in the picture it will make a bigger hole on the side that you poke from(front side) than on the back side.  Because of the shape, you also must be very careful about the depth you use in order to get the hole size consistent.  In other words, it's pretty darn difficult to use. You'll see a lot of these out there that are the same shape, but much better tools than the Tandy version.

The next three are Seiwa awls in three sizes.  The point is broader, and the sides are straight after the initial point.  This will give you a hole that is the same size front and back of the hole. To me, they look like a broadsword.  These are my go-to awls.  You choose the blade size that suits the thread that you are using, and I usually use #2 with .8mm thread.  Another advantage of these, and the spear point awls is that if you are using a pricking iron the tip of the awl will settle nicely into the slit that the iron creates and will really help you to get the angle right.

The one on the right is an Osborne awl, and as you can see, it's pointier sort of like a rapier.  It does work well, but requires a little more care to get the angle correct.  I find them a bit hard to use for that reason.  A lot of people will snip the tip off this type of awl to give it a broader tip.  It is also tapered, but not nearly so much as the spear point awl, and will give a slightly bigger hole on the front side than on the back, but not nearly so drastic as the spear point.

On Length:

I prefer to use a shorter awl rather than longer where possible.  As you hold the awl in your hand, a shorter awl tip will move around less than will a longer one as you move your wrist, making it easier to get the holes just where you want them, and easier to get the holes straight front to back.

On handles:

The Seiwa awls come with flat sides on the handles.  This helps to keep them from rolling around, but more importantly, you can feel the flat in your hand and know that you have the blade in the right orientation without having to look (at least after awhile).  they also fit my hand nicely.  If your handle is round, don't hesitate to modify it to suit your hands and flat-side it to help orient the blade!  You also may want to put a little leather washer at the base of the blade so that if you push a little too hard and go deeper than intended it will cushion the leather and not leave a bezel shaped impression on your work!

On care:

Many blades are plain ol' steel.  As such, they will rust if you're not careful.  A little bit of wax can help prevent rust, and some find that it helps the awl slide through the leather.   They will also stab you when you reach into your storage space to grab 'em.  A wine cork makes a great blade guard, and can also be helpful as a backer when you're sewing the thin stuff.  Not to mention the pleasure of getting the cork in the first place. 

On sharpening and polishing:

The awl needs to be sharp, sharp, sharp and polished like a mirror to help them just glide through leather.  You should be able to go through a half inch of leather and halfway through your finger before you even notice it (as most everybody does a time or two).  I'd like to tell you that I've mastered the art of sharpening, but I haven't.  I'm getting there, tho!  If you have good stones, use them.  If not, sandpaper on a glass surface works pretty well!   Nigel Armitage has a pretty good video on sharpening an awl.  Bear in mind that as you sharpen and polish, you are to some extent also forming the blade profile.  Not a problem, just be aware of what you're doing as you work!

Hope that all helps!

Bill

 

[MADMAX22]

Thanks billy alot more info then Ive got time to put together right now. Forgot about using the cork plug for the back side. 

[bikermutt07]

 

Not only are there different lengths and widths of awls, there are also different blade shapes to sort through.  

 

Below, you'll see a few different awls, presented over a thick double layer of leather edge on, as you'd have is you were sewing it.  

On blade profile:

The left one is a piece of crap expensive Tandy 4 in 1.  It is the classic saddler's awl shape, which to me looks like a spear point.  Mine is probably sharpened a little pointier than the classic, but as you can see in the picture it will make a bigger hole on the side that you poke from(front side) than on the back side.  Because of the shape, you also must be very careful about the depth you use in order to get the hole size consistent.  In other words, it's pretty darn difficult to use. You'll see a lot of these out there that are the same shape, but much better tools than the Tandy version.

The next three are Seiwa awls in three sizes.  The point is broader, and the sides are straight after the initial point.  This will give you a hole that is the same size front and back of the hole. To me, they look like a broadsword.  These are my go-to awls.  You choose the blade size that suits the thread that you are using, and I usually use #2 with .8mm thread.  Another advantage of these, and the spear point awls is that if you are using a pricking iron the tip of the awl will settle nicely into the slit that the iron creates and will really help you to get the angle right.

The one on the right is an Osborne awl, and as you can see, it's pointier sort of like a rapier.  It does work well, but requires a little more care to get the angle correct.  I find them a bit hard to use for that reason.  A lot of people will snip the tip off this type of awl to give it a broader tip.  It is also tapered, but not nearly so much as the spear point awl, and will give a slightly bigger hole on the front side than on the back, but not nearly so drastic as the spear point.

On Length:

I prefer to use a shorter awl rather than longer where possible.  As you hold the awl in your hand, a shorter awl tip will move around less than will a longer one as you move your wrist, making it easier to get the holes just where you want them, and easier to get the holes straight front to back.

On handles:

The Seiwa awls come with flat sides on the handles.  This helps to keep them from rolling around, but more importantly, you can feel the flat in your hand and know that you have the blade in the right orientation without having to look (at least after awhile).  they also fit my hand nicely.  If your handle is round, don't hesitate to modify it to suit your hands and flat-side it to help orient the blade!  You also may want to put a little leather washer at the base of the blade so that if you push a little too hard and go deeper than intended it will cushion the leather and not leave a bezel shaped impression on your work!

On care:

Many blades are plain ol' steel.  As such, they will rust if you're not careful.  A little bit of wax can help prevent rust, and some find that it helps the awl slide through the leather.   They will also stab you when you reach into your storage space to grab 'em.  A wine cork makes a great blade guard, and can also be helpful as a backer when you're sewing the thin stuff.  Not to mention the pleasure of getting the cork in the first place. 

On sharpening and polishing:

The awl needs to be sharp, sharp, sharp and polished like a mirror to help them just glide through leather.  You should be able to go through a half inch of leather and halfway through your finger before you even notice it (as most everybody does a time or two).  I'd like to tell you that I've mastered the art of sharpening, but I haven't.  I'm getting there, tho!  If you have good stones, use them.  If not, sandpaper on a glass surface works pretty well!   Nigel Armitage has a pretty good video on sharpening an awl.  Bear in mind that as you sharpen and polish, you are to some extent also forming the blade profile.  Not a problem, just be aware of what you're doing as you work!

Hope that all helps!

Bill

 

Thanks. That cork backer idea is definitely a keeper. I just have the craftool diamond awl. I have it pretty sharp but probably not sharp enough. I know Tandy has their own sizing thing going, but any chance you know what pairs best with it? If not it's cool.

[billybopp]

I don't know how the Tandy awls are sized.  Sorry!   Best thing to do there, tho, is to get ahold of threads of different sizes (just a couple of yards will do) and try them to see what works best for you!   The Seiwa #2 and .8mm thread works well for the way that I sew, and the leather kind and thickness, and type of thread I'm using(mostly the chinese spools from ebay).  I tend to use a pricking iron with not stitch groove.  But if any of those variables is different it may not work for you.  Experimentation is the thing! (Oh, and keep notes on what works best in what combinations).

Bill

[zuludog]

If you need to pull a needle through a hole then -

Either; the hole is too small; or the needle is too big; or the thread is too thick, which makes the needle & folded thread too big at the eye; or any combination of these

But neither should the needle be completely loose in the hole. There should be a slight resistance or drag. You should be able to pull the needle through the hole 95 to 100% of the time. The exception is on the backstitch, when the hole is already occupied by two thicknesses of thread. Before using pliers, try enlarging or teasing out the hole with a round awl

If you do have to use engineering pliers, hold them at right angles to the needle, so that it lies along the grooves and they do not make serrations along the needle

I have heard of people asking st their dentist for old dental pliers as these are smooth on the inner faces

When using pliers do not twist the needle or rock it from side to side as you can easily break the eye; a straight pull with moderate force should be all you need. If you have to really struggle, then there's something wrong in the first place

[CaptQuirk]

I need one of those flat handled awls, really bad. I'm tired of the awl rolling off the table and trying to impale my feet. Being a Florida cracker, I wear flip flops 95% of the time, and that leaves a lot of open flesh to hit.

[billybopp]

Good advice, zuludog!  

Needles do indeed come in a lot of sizes and the shape is different as well.  The Tandy needles have pretty big eyes for the needle size as compared to the John James needles that I'm now using.  That makes the Tandy needles a little more difficult to pull through in most cases, and I suspect easier to break.  

One little trick that I've found is that if you are having a hard time getting the needle through the hole, back it up a little bit and rotate it 90 degrees and try again.  That re-orients the thread in relation to the hole and will often let you pull through by hand.  If you do need to use pliers, as zuludog mentioned, be careful as they can nick up the needles.  Smooth jaw pliers help with that tremendously, and can be found online pretty inexpensively (< $10.00 US ) as smooth jaw jewelers pliers.  If you're using the smooth jaw pliers, it's best to go straight onto the needle rather than from the side.  

CaptQuirk .. Yeah sharp pointy things through your foot is no fun at all.   Don't be afraid to modify your awl by flattening a side!  Not only does it keep it from rolling off the table and through your foot, but the flattened side will help you keep the awl oriented in your hand so that you know by feel what you're doing!

Hope that helps

Bill

[YinTx]

It awl depends on what you are stitching.  Out of awl of these, my go to is usually the medium Vergez Blanchard, about 90% or more of the work I do.  And at $20, pretty inexpensive in the world of leatherworking tools.

My favorite steel is the Pre-WWI era awl blade, so easy to polish up shiny and smooth, with a mirror finish.  Makes a hole in sole bend leather like a hot knife in butter.  

From the bottom left, two Seiwas, then three Vergez Blanchards (small,  medium, large), then three Pre-WW1 German steel awls, a scratch awl, cheapo Tandy blade, Pre-WW1 round awl,  C.S. Osborne diamond shaped curved blade (anyone know how to sharpen this bad boy?) then the two really large Pre-WW1 German steel blades, not sharpened.

They all make different shapes and sizes of holes, giving different stitch looks.

YinTx

[CaptQuirk]

@billybopp- I need a new awl anyways. The first thing my Osborne did, was sink the blade into the handle, and bend the blade a bit. Should have gotten 2, one to practice with and one to use when I had more experience.

[zuludog]

CAPT QUIRK

Why can't you just file a flat on your existing awl?

[CaptQuirk]

See the post above yours

[zuludog]

These posts & responses are coming so quickly at the moment I think I'm getting a bit confused; sorry

I got my local woodcarving & woodturning club to make me some awl hafts just how I wanted them. This was meat & drink to them, they were happy to do it. But in return I made some leather slip on covers or protectors for their woodturning chisels

[CaptQuirk]

Yeah, thats it! I'm also confused because of the posts coming quickly... yeah, thats the ticket

 

Sorry. The wife says I'm confused because I'm an idjit. It has nothing to do with the posts.

Edited August 28, 2016 by CaptQuirk