Members Dwight Posted December 28, 2008 Members Report Posted December 28, 2008 (edited) I was not as well pleased with the dye job on a large Western gun belt or the two holsters as I could have been. I've been thinking of setting up some sort of container for large object dying using Feibing's solvent based dyes (mostly). Just wanted to hear from others, . . . maybe not make the same mistakes, . . . and I am concerned about how to store 4 to 6 qts of dye once it is opened and being used. If you do this, . . . what type of containers do you use, . . . are there any special clean up tips, . . . any special pit falls, . . . ???? Thanks, may God bless, Dwight Edited December 28, 2008 by Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Timd Posted December 29, 2008 Report Posted December 29, 2008 Dwight, you'll probably be better off spraying rather than dipping. A Preval sprayer isn't that expensive. Quote
Members CitizenKate Posted December 29, 2008 Members Report Posted December 29, 2008 I second Tim's opinion about spraying vs. dipping. If you plan to do a lot of these projects, may I also suggest a small single-action spray gun with a small $100-125 compressor. That would be the same cost as about 25 Pre-val sprayer refills. Kate Quote
Members Dwight Posted December 30, 2008 Author Members Report Posted December 30, 2008 (edited) I second Tim's opinion about spraying vs. dipping.If you plan to do a lot of these projects, may I also suggest a small single-action spray gun with a small $100-125 compressor. That would be the same cost as about 25 Pre-val sprayer refills. Kate Thanks, Tim, Kate, . . . I had thought about spraying, . . . but I can't do that year round because both the house and the shop are heated with "live flames" so to speak (wood burner in the house, . . . propane burner in the shop). I really have a yen for heaven, . . . but not on the leading edge of an explosion. John Bianchi showed using a larger tank for his oil bath he gave his Western rigs, . . . and I thought maybe some of you folks did something similar, . . . just wanted to get it as close to right the first time as I could. I'm planning on ramping up my holster business, but there will only be a few colors, . . . I just cannot do the rainbow thing. Thanks, may God bless, Dwight Edited December 30, 2008 by Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members Randy Cornelius Posted December 30, 2008 Members Report Posted December 30, 2008 Here is how I do it and seem to have good luck. I use oil dye from Feblings as I have had the best luck with it. I use right from the bottle and buy in quarts. For a large object I pour out an amount in a plastic dish, (ok I use butter dishes) I then cut a piece of wool and cut it real short. I start by using a back and forth motion, then change directions and then go to a circular motion until well covered. I see no reason to spray on a holster and gun belt. I quit using the spirt dyes years ago because of streaking problems. I have the best results with the professional oil dye from Feblings. I have tried others but none have the results that the oil dye does from Feblings. I tried some of Weavers oil dye ONCE! Never again. I am sure there are as may ways to dye as leatherworkers who use dye. This is just what works best for me. I like appling dye by hand as I can blend it and rub it in. I like to feel the leather. The best way to discribe this is that I can feel when the leather has absorbed the right amount of dye, something I cannot do with a sprayer. I used a sprayer once and got overspray everywhere. One more thought. If you do not have enough dye in one bottle for a project use a new bottle. Then afterward I will mix them together as I do not want to start a large dye job with a small amount in a bottle and then open a new bottle. There is no garentee that it will be the exact color. Always blend the new dye with the old dye to have a consistant color. Randy Quote Randy Cornelius Cornelius Saddlery LaCygne, Kansas Randy & Riley Cornelius Ride Hard, Shoot Fast and Always Tell the Truth...
Ambassador Luke Hatley Posted December 30, 2008 Ambassador Report Posted December 30, 2008 DWIGHT if you are revamping your Holster Business you need to take a look at the Colored Leather that Wickett & Craig has to offer. then you will not have a need to dye the leather, I use the Chestnut color and it is great......I M O P. Quote Luke
Members CitizenKate Posted December 30, 2008 Members Report Posted December 30, 2008 For a large object I pour out an amount in a plastic dish, (ok I use butter dishes) I then cut a piece of wool and cut it real short. I start by using a back and forth motion, then change directions and then go to a circular motion until well covered. Larger applicator - that works, too. I see no reason to spray on a holster and gun belt. Or he could just switch to non-flammable water-based dyes. (I'm just kidding with Randy, since I know how much he hates water-based dyes.) I actually do like the oil dyes when I'm dying something a solid color, and Randy's method works great in situations when you need a solid color wash on something large and can't spray. For those of you who can spray, there are reasons to consider it, aside from making it very easy to get any dye to go on very evenly. One is that it makes it easy to do shading effects with the color (such as you see here on one of David's excellent motorcycle seats). I have found that this can also be done by wiping it around the edges with a rag or some other large applicator, but it's a lot more work doing it that way. If you're not into that kind of look, that's cool. Just something to consider. Kate Quote
Members Rawhide Posted December 30, 2008 Members Report Posted December 30, 2008 ...I quit using the spirt dyes years ago because of streaking problems. I have the best results with the professional oil dye from Feblings... Randy, don't look now, but the 'oil' dye is also a spirit dye. It just has much better quality dye stuffs and alcohol in them, that's why they penetrate better and cover more evenly. Quote Marlon
Members Rawhide Posted December 30, 2008 Members Report Posted December 30, 2008 Larger applicator - that works, too.Or he could just switch to non-flammable water-based dyes. (I'm just kidding with Randy, since I know how much he hates water-based dyes.) I actually do like the oil dyes when I'm dying something a solid color, and Randy's method works great in situations when you need a solid color wash on something large and can't spray. For those of you who can spray, there are reasons to consider it, aside from making it very easy to get any dye to go on very evenly. One is that it makes it easy to do shading effects with the color (such as you see here on one of David's excellent motorcycle seats). I have found that this can also be done by wiping it around the edges with a rag or some other large applicator, but it's a lot more work doing it that way. If you're not into that kind of look, that's cool. Just something to consider. Kate Kate, Ijust bought myself an airbrush, and I'm looking to learn some basic techniques with it, Any suggestions on usage or instructions? Quote Marlon
Members CitizenKate Posted December 30, 2008 Members Report Posted December 30, 2008 Kate, Ijust bought myself an airbrush, and I'm looking to learn some basic techniques with it, Any suggestions on usage or instructions? I sure do, as I'm sure several others here do, as well. But to avoid hijacking Dwight's thread, let's start another thread on this topic. Kate Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.