Gunbelt is too loose

[plinkercases]

If the curve is slightly different for different length then no youcouldnt cut the same curve unless you were making a run fo equal (or relatively equal) belts. at least that's how I htough it out wheni asked myself the same question.

As for forming the curve I saw some where you can trace the curve of a broken in pants belt, cut the profile of plywood and form the new belt against that so the new pants belt (or through the loop gun belt) already matches the nice old belts specific curves for you build and wear style. I may try this when I next make myself and every day belt.

[Dwight]

The geometric shape of the curve is going to be the exact same arc whether the belt is 32 inches long, . . . or 52 inches long.

The "top of the arc" will simply be farther away from the straight line drawn between the ends.

Do what you want to do, . . . but this is a direct copy of what John Bianchi (basically the father of the modern gunfighter rigs) teaches and has taught for many years.

I would suggest that his system is probably a whole lot more reliable that Billy Bob's old floppy Walmart $4.99 belt made of genuine imitation leather.

May God bless,

Dwight

[plinkercases]

I gave myself the wrong answer! Of course it makes sense now that the curve is the same regardless of length just the ends move along the curve.

An I am not against the idea at all. The other idea of forming to the old belt was just fro a pants belt really.

Thanks for straightening me out Dwight!

[JLSleather]

Gonna depend on the amount of curve, Josh.  If you're only dropping a few inches in 50"+, then you CAN use the strap cutter after the first one.

But I do NOT think the curve is the same for every body shape, any more than I think all blonds are the same level of stupid  

I also don't think there is a "right" distance to put slots out from the gun on a pancake holster.  On a round fella you can put the slots closer than the one for the narrow fella. Not that you need to, since he has less "curve" (more gradual) in his waist.

Nor do I think there is a "right" amount of curve in a belt when I glue the layers together.  A guy with a 34" waist needs his belt glued with more curve than the fella with the 44" waist... NOT the same radius

I've made belts for slim fellas that looked a bit like dog collars. And I've made belts for big fellas where you 'n' me could both be talkin to the guy and never see each other 

But to answer the question, I don't make that many curved belts (very few last few years) so I cut them with an x-acto

 

Edited August 9, 2016 by JLSleather

[Josh Ashman]

That's a good answer JLS! Thanks for sharing your thoughts!

I dug up this old picture of a double buscadero rig I made a while back. I cut this off a new hide, I used a straight edge and just cut far enough down that the belt fit upside-down on the cut off piece. Anyway, it was cut perfectly straight. I formed the curve into it when I tooled it. I based the radius on what I thought looked "right". I'm not sure what John Bianchi or Billy Bob from Wal-Mart do to make their belts, nor will I loose any sleep worrying about it. 

Have a good day folks! 

[JLSleather]

OH>. yer talkin' about a dropped rig, and skirt holsters.  See, now that I'd just go on cut with m' trusty knife.  I do cut those on a bit of a curve, just don't git obsessed about what the curve is

Last time I made something like that, I sent a bill that made it not really important if I wasted a little cowhide

That's purdy.. just one question -- whatdya cut the tie downs from?  Same hide?  Latigo? 

[plinkercases]

Nice rig.

[Josh Ashman]

Thanks! Tie downs were cut from some oil tan chap leather I had left over. 

[Red Cent]

"How you finish them edges, Red?  Without actually holding one, I've always thought your rigs look good 'n' solid (in a impressive way).  So you DO use the acrylic, or no? "

I don't use any "edge" coating products. I spend too much time on the edges. I cut, sand edges square, bevel, then sand to round the edges. Very lightly coat edges with water, motor burnish (glass finish), dye (Fiebings dye) the edges, burnish again before dye is totally dry. Wipe on bar of glycerin, burnish and wipe edges thoroughly with old towel. Lightly rub on 50/50 beeswax and paraffin and burnish. Wipe edges with old towel until all color comes off om towel. Then M&P everything. This takes two or more days.

 

[JLSleather]

Thanks, Josh... never thought o' that cuz I never got no chap leather

RED -- I gotta git me summa that there glycerin.  Can't remember using any, truth is.  But when I asked bout yer edge finishin', I meant due to the suede liner.