Members brmax Posted August 16, 2018 Members Report Posted August 16, 2018 I hear a few different areas to try and distingquish. I suspect one is the binder part touching in a constant, then the later one that seems to vari in its movement. Is there an option to veiw the hook during this run to try the seperation of these. Also is the speed a part in the various noise levels help in elimination. Im also curious of the bobbin fill and placement and just all that area we all flashlight into. Good day there Floyd Quote
Members HardenGoods Posted August 16, 2018 Members Report Posted August 16, 2018 (edited) 30 minutes ago, brmax said: I hear a few different areas to try and distingquish. I suspect one is the binder part touching in a constant, then the later one that seems to vari in its movement. Is there an option to veiw the hook during this run to try the seperation of these. Also is the speed a part in the various noise levels help in elimination. Im also curious of the bobbin fill and placement and just all that area we all flashlight into. Good day there Floyd Thanks for the insight Floyd! I appreciate your thoughts. The noise definitely seems to be coming from in and around the lower driveshaft gears though. 54 minutes ago, kgg said: Near the end of the short video to me it sounds like a gear that is not catching properly and giving that inconsistent cycling over spin noise. Is there any visible metal filings in the base, filter screen, oil feel gritty? kgg Kgg, I suspected something similar because of the particular sound of the grinding noise. After tilting the head of the machine back I do notice some discolouration on the oil pad but this may also be normal for break in (although I'm positive the noise is not). I was also surprised to not see an oil pan under here which I've seen on some other Juki clones, but maybe not necessary. Also, the rubber gasket came like that. I continue to place it back where it should be but it is too small for its purpose. Edited August 16, 2018 by HardenGoods spelling Quote
kgg Posted August 16, 2018 Report Posted August 16, 2018 Hi HardenGoods, I am surprised that there is no oil wicks, oil pump, gear grease. Maybe it doesn't need them. In the last photo it looks like you are holding a small oil pan what is it for? Is here any obvious slop in the shafts, gears etc. How does the needle end of the cylinder arm look any obvious rubbing? kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Members HardenGoods Posted August 16, 2018 Members Report Posted August 16, 2018 I hope it doesn’t need them. The oil pan is taken from a video from “Alden’s School of Leather” on a Juki 341 copy. Not my oil pan but made me think my machine should or could have one. No rubbing in the hook area. All is well on that end after careful inspection. The noise comes from right near the gears in the photos. Thanks for the help kgg. Quote
Members brmax Posted August 16, 2018 Members Report Posted August 16, 2018 With your 246 clone is there any movement up and down in that gear and shaft in your photo. Had been curious just how these played a role with pfaff design On a side note, Kinda wish my class 4 had a oil pan like you've shown ? I just keep a paper shop towell in there as theres no cast iron bottom rather just the table top. Its an updating i guess they made the bottom section on the 1341 a cast iron pan, with a threaded drain hole. If’n you decide to pull that all apart it might be a great video post in itself. Checking end play and gear paint pattern mesh and all. Its sure worth a call to the tech. Their daily task with these is hard to pass up Floyd Quote
Members HardenGoods Posted August 16, 2018 Members Report Posted August 16, 2018 7 hours ago, brmax said: With your 246 clone is there any movement up and down in that gear and shaft in your photo. Had been curious just how these played a role with pfaff design On a side note, Kinda wish my class 4 had a oil pan like you've shown ? I just keep a paper shop towell in there as theres no cast iron bottom rather just the table top. Its an updating i guess they made the bottom section on the 1341 a cast iron pan, with a threaded drain hole. If’n you decide to pull that all apart it might be a great video post in itself. Checking end play and gear paint pattern mesh and all. Its sure worth a call to the tech. Their daily task with these is hard to pass up Floyd I will check the play and movement a little later when I am back in front of the machine. Yea, I really like the pan idea! Quote
Uwe Posted August 17, 2018 Report Posted August 17, 2018 (edited) I have a new, old-stock Juki LS-341 and it took me nearly two days to figure out the root cause for a bind when I first got it. It turned out the machine had - for some unknown reason - a set screw on one of the hook driving cone gears that was a tiny bit too long.The set screw was touching other cone gear teeth nearby - not a good thing. With a proper, shorter set screw installed the machine is the buttery smoothness you expect from Juki. I mention this because even the tiniest part can turn a perfectly good machine into grinding, thumping mess. I'm glad I found the screw before I ran the machine under motor power. On the sub-topic of oil drip pans, I ordered an inexpensive Honbo HB-8B (copy of Seiko CW-8B/Consew 227R) to develop a table attachment for this machine class - eventually. It was a gamble but it turned out to be a surprisingly nice and well made machine. It even came with a metal oil drip pan insert - yay! Edited August 17, 2018 by Uwe Quote Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" ) Links: Videos
Members HardenGoods Posted August 17, 2018 Members Report Posted August 17, 2018 (edited) 43 minutes ago, Uwe said: I have a new, old-stock Juki LS-341 (E)ven the tiniest part can turn a perfectly good machine into grinding, thumping mess. I'm glad I found the screw before I ran the machine under motor power. On the sub-topic of oil drip pans, I ordered an inexpensive Honbo HB-8B Wow. I'm not surprised after seeing your setup... new... old/dead stock seems like the best it gets. Treasures waiting to be unleashed haha. Agreed. That Adler 67 taught me how many things have to work with and off of each other in just the right way/time to accomplish what the machine was set out to do. Also, I hope this isn't too late for this (2600) machine because I sent the video to the tech and he said it was normal. Doesn't seem normal. Looks great. Something about a well fitting stamped pan does it for me a little more than what looks like scissor cut felt . Did you have many of the same clones to choose from when buying the Honbo? Lately, I often wonder how one knows which copy to get when they all tend to look the same. Reputation goes a long way but it seems to be difficult to acquire useful info on which manufacturer produces said machine best. Edited August 17, 2018 by HardenGoods Quote
Members dikman Posted August 17, 2018 Members Report Posted August 17, 2018 Is it normal for those bevel gears to not have any grease on them? My Pfaff is greased. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
kgg Posted August 17, 2018 Report Posted August 17, 2018 11 hours ago, Uwe said: On the sub-topic of oil drip pans, I ordered an inexpensive Honbo HB-8B (copy of Seiko CW-8B/Consew 227R) to develop a table attachment for this machine class - eventually. It was a gamble but it turned out to be a surprisingly nice and well made machine. It even came with a metal oil drip pan insert - yay! Uwe that pan seems to fit pretty nicely. Was the shipping expensive to get it over from China. kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
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