Juki 1508 NH VS Juki LH 2810 S-S

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

19 hours ago, R8R said:

Thanks! Was going to order from you but a local shop made me a deal I could not refuse. We might talk motors in the near future though.

No worries, glad you got things worked out.  

[shaybutlerknives]

On 2/4/2018 at 11:09 PM, R8R said:

I had checked out a 1508N, a 1508NH, a 1541s, and a 1508NH clone.

I also breifly owned a 1560N. (sold it cause I didn't need a double needle)

I'm going to say initial impressions of the 2810 is that it's better than all of those. Like ... way better. In my limited testing so far, it climbs over assemblies easily, no flinching or stalling and just seems to sew smoother than the other Juki's in this range. Most people seem to say the Japanese made machines are inherently better, and I think in the near past that was true, but I see little to no difference so far in build quality with this Chinese made machine. Fit and finish is very nice. Time will tell how it holds up.

If you are not familiar with the newer Juki flat beds, the overall design is super cool - no shafts or bearings exposed, everything is housed under a full length top cover, including all the feed mechanisms. It's "semi-dry", all the auto lubrication is from a tank and tubes to the lower feed parts and hook. Seemingly, all the upper drive components are sealed bearings or grease. Not much manual oiling to speak of.

The one I got is the "A" Euro gauge variety, shares common feet with Adler 467, etc.

Auto-feed feature on the bobbin winder is super cool. There is a thread knife/thread clip on it, and when you trim the thread the clip holds it in place. Stick a bobbin on it, throw the release lever and the thread spools onto the bobbin automatically - no need to pass the thread through the bobbin hole and hold it while it starts, or trim the excess. Super quick and brainless.

My hand is in the pic for scale. This is a monster flat bed. I'm 6'4" with large hands. This makes a Singer 111w look like a Singer 221.

More pics and impressions once I get more treadle time on it.

 

 

Mine is ready to go and got the call to pickup ... or at least sew it off.  After reading this - think i will stick to the 2810... assuming you are just loving it.  The place I ordered mine owns a manufacturing plant and they supposedly built me a custom feed dog that is guaranteed to not mark the leather.  Yet to see it ... so who knows.   If you end up doing a video or something - hit me up - would love to check it out

[shoepatcher]

The Juki 2810 is a copy of the Adler 867 with cost saving of about 25--33% over the cost of the Adler.    What I have seen of it, great machine.    Yet to sew on one but have looked at them at MJ Foley which is the largest Juki dealer in the US.  Bigger machine , longer throat, higher lift, new bobbin winder system, central lubrication.  New generation machine over the 1508 and the 2210.  I believe if you get the 2810-7 which has the toys, cost is around $5,200.00.  The Adler 867 with toys is over $7,000.00  You do the math.

glenn

[R8R]

14 hours ago, shoepatcher said:

The Juki 2810 is a copy of the Adler 867 with cost saving of about 25--33% over the cost of the Adler.    What I have seen of it, great machine.    Yet to sew on one but have looked at them at MJ Foley which is the largest Juki dealer in the US.  Bigger machine , longer throat, higher lift, new bobbin winder system, central lubrication.  New generation machine over the 1508 and the 2210.  I believe if you get the 2810-7 which has the toys, cost is around $5,200.00.  The Adler 867 with toys is over $7,000.00  You do the math.

glenn

2810-7 street price is closer to $4600. The super full loaded 2828A-7 is about $5500 (extra big bobbin, short thread trimmer, etc.)

 

I looked at the Adler stuff and it's super nice but not 50% nicer, which was typically how much more it costs. Juki parts and accessories are easier to get in this neck of the woods too.

 

So far this machine is everything I hoped it would be. I swapped the stock Family servo it came with for a 750w servo with a synchro and it's working great.

[R8R]

Here is a little DIY trick I did for the synchronizer. On the 2810 basic model there is no holes or bushings for a synchro mount, so I took a small piece of aluminum U-angle and drilled it to fit under the screws on the back cover. Works perfectly and no additional holes needed to be drilled in the machine or the table.

Thought this pic was funny... scale reference next to my Ultrafeed clone...

[DonInReno]

Wow - that is nice nice nice!