What to do with these H.O. trimmings? Or, trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear...

[YinTx]

So, I had these extra bits of very thin Hermann Oak leather that I didn't want to just toss in the bin.  I have always wanted to try my hand at a nice bifold pocket wallet with turned edges, and ribbon pockets... so I thought what the heck, I'll give it a go.  Here's the result...not the silk purse I had quite pictured in my mind's eye, but useable.  A lot of little errors that sum up to a not perfect item, but I learned a lot.  I think I might not ever make another one either... this was a pain in the rear!  At least not unless someone offered me the right amount of $$, and I don't see that happening, since this didn't turn out so awesome....

Technical details:  my own blend of fiebeng's dyes... 35/3 Coats Barbour linen thread, hand stitched at 10 spi, Hermann Oak Leather 1 to 2 oz, batik hand dyed cloth liner.

difficulties with uploads.. apparently 187kb exceeds the size limits....

YinTx

[YinTx]

 

YinTx

[YinTx]

[bikermutt07]

I like it. Is that color burgandy?

[YinTx]

Not really a burgundy.  Its several colors, but primarily red with some browns blended.  Hard to illustrate with photos, which don't do the color justice.  The dark browns tend to highlight distresses in the leather, the reds make it pop.  It morphs depending on the light, more dark burgundy/maroon in the low lights, reds in the sunlight.  It isn't easy is impossible to do it consistently, so I rarely show it to folks, because when they see it thats the color they want lol.  I can't blame them, it really is neat in person, and I tend to do it for things I will keep myself, like this wallet.

It looks good with a variety of thread colors, but I have tended to use creams, and in this case, black.

YinTx

[bikermutt07]

It's really a beautiful color. Are you mixing them or applying different colors in layers?

[Wedgetail]

For a pile of leather in the scrap bin, I'd think you would have to be pretty happy with that!

I had a crack at making a wallet with turned edges like this recently... it's back to the drawing board on that one, and I'm not in a hurry to start again. I know what you mean about it being a pain!

[RockyAussie]

I hope your not serious about not doing any more. I think it shows a pretty good progression. I would have liked the card pockets to have a 1/4" or so drop in T style but if thinning is a problem I guess its Ok for now. Next when I trim the outer skin before folding I use a about 1/4" key steel to put against the edge.Careful not to slice any fingertips off.

Once this is trimmed off nice and straight (if a bit fluffy singe it off with a lighter)I then colour it before folding. When folding by hand pull firmly over the part that is thickest first then hold back a bit on where it is thinnest.Takes a fair bit of practice to get looking straight but I will see it and continue to point it out if you don't. If you don't already have a roller line marker use a wooden ruler and with your bone slicker rub up and down barely touching the folded edge. Makes it look a bit straighter. Best Regards Brian

[YinTx]

Brian,

As WedgeTail said, it's back to the drawing board on this one for me.  It was a challenging piece for me to make, and ended up with a couple of "fatal flaws."  I could see making a few more and perfecting it, but I fail to see a market that would support the effort, since there are sooooo many wallets for sale in every clothing store you could imagine.

Now, I'm all for learning and improving myself, so from that perspective, I might consider doing it again.  I'm trying to visualize what you are saying, but sadly I don't know what a keysteel is, nor do I know what a roller line marker is.  I'd google it, but I suspect I might not come up with your concept.  Would you mind expressing your instructions with some photos?  I would greatly appreciate it.

YinTx

[RockyAussie]

Hi YinTx, I will get some done up and post a bit later but Key steel is the steel used in key ways in pulleys etc. Normally sold about 1 foot long and mostly square but rectangular sizes are there as well.

[RockyAussie]

Back again. Here see some pics of my line marking machine. By pulling handle at back down you can put the product in up against the guide which can be adjusted. The pressure of roller can be increased by the knob up on top. The masking tape is over bottom feed roller to reduce teeth marking. As not a lot of people have these I have shown how to achieve similar with a cow horn folder. These may look different than some as I make quite a few for various purposes. I recommended a wooden ruler for this as a steel ruler can leave unwanted marks on veg skin. I'll do the key steel trimming in the next post along with some patterns showing the t style a bit.

[RockyAussie]

Here are some key steel trimming pics and a tip for skiving the corners. Whatever the thickness at the corner is angle the knife so as to leave behind about the same thickness. Also in the pdf file I have printed patterns as for the card holder in the picture here. If you print true to size they should be about right I think. Let me know otherwise. Regards Brian.

 

Center pocket Business Card Holder.pdf

Edited September 27, 2016 by RockyAussie
Fogot pictures

[RockyAussie]

[Wedgetail]

Great tips!

You've got a few on the go there too, I see.

[RockyAussie]

Yea as always drowning in it and they try and get me to spend money and advertise.

[Northmount]

12 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Hi YinTx, I will get some done up and post a bit later but Key steel is the steel used in key ways in pulleys etc. Normally sold about 1 foot long and mostly square but rectangular sizes are there as well.

Also called key stock here.  Found in big box hardware stores and most metal suppliers.  Lots of sizes, 1/8" and up to 5/8" or more.  Larger sizes are nice, have the weight to help stay in place, and easier to grab and hold.

Tom

[YinTx]

Brian,

Awesome share, thank you so much!  It may be a while before I attempt another, but when I do I will definitely put your info to good use. So is the line marking machine just putting a line along the edge of the leather, or is it cutting it straight as well?  Mine was straight before I folded it, and when it had to go over the multiple thicknesses, it ended up getting not so straight.  Compounded by having to do that last fold with the bifold in a nearly shut position (folded in half) to position the pocket tops where they should be (which was a major fail... It pulled out from under the wrap, resulting in being missed when I stitched the last stitch... arghhh!).  I wanted to trim the last fold straight, but was afraid i would cut into the leather below...also I missed that last skive on the 45 degree corner cut.. didn't occur to me to do it, so I see it on the wallet.

Other trouble I ran into is when I wet the veg tan to make the fold, along the fold line, the whole piece warped, so all my nice square cuts were for naught.

YinTx

[YinTx]

Oh yeah, and that 10spi takes forever and a day.. what is the purpose of 12spi?  Can't imagine where that would even be useful...anyone know?

YinTx

[RockyAussie]

2 hours ago, YinTx said:

Brian,

Awesome share, thank you so much!  It may be a while before I attempt another, but when I do I will definitely put your info to good use. So is the line marking machine just putting a line along the edge of the leather, or is it cutting it straight as well?  Mine was straight before I folded it, and when it had to go over the multiple thicknesses, it ended up getting not so straight.  Compounded by having to do that last fold with the bifold in a nearly shut position (folded in half) to position the pocket tops where they should be (which was a major fail... It pulled out from under the wrap, resulting in being missed when I stitched the last stitch... arghhh!).  I wanted to trim the last fold straight, but was afraid i would cut into the leather below...also I missed that last skive on the 45 degree corner cut.. didn't occur to me to do it, so I see it on the wallet.

Other trouble I ran into is when I wet the veg tan to make the fold, along the fold line, the whole piece warped, so all my nice square cuts were for naught.

YinTx

The Line marking machine shown here burnishes in the line only. The little polished wheel spins faster than the product feeds through. The PDF pattern here of the card holder should be useful for a pattern for inside wallets cards as well. Was the wetting really necessary? Glue and water seldome mix.

Brian

[YinTx]

This was veg tan, so even though it was pretty thin, I felt it still needed to be wet to get a good fold out of it.  I did let it dry for a day between wet/fold and glue/stitch.  Also, did not use contact cement on this one, I used the white leather glue, which I think may be water based, not sure.

YinTx