gusset Gusset Problemo

[animal]

Hello Guys,

I need your help to clarify my head from this "gusset problem". I'll try to keep it short in my story and case.

I try to make a card case with gusset.

Material : 3 oz vegetable tan leather

I've already watch how to count the leather gusset to measure the body and how to stitch it with the main body in nigel armittage video on you tube. So he shows how to hole the leather using the awl, after you hole the other side with the diamond prong.

Its true because after you glue the gusset and body, it will be difficult or even impossible to hole it with diamond prong. If I hole one side and the  the other side separately, the hole won't be match (because the gusset is curved)

So here's what I do:

1. Cut Gusset and measure the body.

2. Using V gouge from ebay (not really a v gouge) - V Gouge I used - with 0.5 cm mark from edge (for folding) on gusset part.

3. Hole the Gusset with 0.3 cm stitching mark from edge (because the curve its on the gusset).

4. Attach the body and the gusset.

5. Using the awl to hole the body from hole in the gusset (step #3) - failed #1 - the hole is zig-zag not straight.

    note: already sharpen the awl but still hard to penetrate the leather from gusset to body (trouble with motion, to narrow).

6. Stitching - failed #2 - why it pulled inside? Am I pulling the thread to tight?

7. Finish but when I look at the edge - failed #3 -

8. DONE

I have think several cause about this "failure": (list of thoughts)

1. Maybe the Gouge not proper? Should I fold it with water after cut and gouge?

2. The material 3 oz leather is not proper for gusset?

3. Should I mark the gouge 1 cm instead 0.5? So the gap can make me easier for stitching?

4. Should I mark the body first instead of the gusset? (but in this case the gusset have a curve, not the body)

*** I haven't done my "list of thoughts" with action because I'm afraid to waste another material.

So before my next experimental, I hope you guys can help me, share your thoughts about this case. Maybe you have already done this and know the trick to stitch the gusset more easy? 

Just preview my thread it looks like a journal.

Sorry for my bad english ^_^

[Northmount]

A couple pictures showing what happened would help others understand and reply back with suggestions.

Tom

[animal]

5 hours ago, northmount said:

A couple pictures showing what happened would help others understand and reply back with suggestions.

Tom

Hi Tom, 

I've post the picture in link, you can find it at: 

-V Gouge I used

-Failed #1 - Failed #3

[Halitech]

for 3oz leather, I wouldn't worry about making a stitch gauge, it's too thin and soft

your holes are not the same distance apart and you are pulling tight

3oz is fine for a gusset, just don't pull so tight

I usually go the thickness of the leather I'm sewing for my stitch line so if your leather is 3mm, make your stitch line 3mm from the edge.

[Northmount]

2 hours ago, animal said:

Hi Tom, 

I've post the picture in link, you can find it at: 

-V Gouge I used

-Failed #1 - Failed #3

Thanks, I missed them as I was reading through your post.

Tom

[animal]

5 hours ago, Halitech said:

for 3oz leather, I wouldn't worry about making a stitch gauge, it's too thin and soft

your holes are not the same distance apart and you are pulling tight

3oz is fine for a gusset, just don't pull so tight

I usually go the thickness of the leather I'm sewing for my stitch line so if your leather is 3mm, make your stitch line 3mm from the edge.

Thank You Halitech for your info.

About the stitching hole distance. I used this method:

1.Hole the gusset first (using prong diamond fork).

2.I attached the gusset with the main body (the main body isnt holed yet)

3. I hole the main body through the gusset hole with diamond awl (one by one)

My doubt is in the angle when I hole with the awl, but its hard because I cannot set vertical angle with the awl.

If I hole the body first & then hole the gusset (curved) with the awl, will the curve ruin the stitching line?

[Halitech]

the stitch line is going to be off regardless because the outside arc is larger then the inside arc. The inside will always be smaller. marking the outside will be easier because you can lay it flat but you may want to put a bit more space between the holes on the arc itself

[Tugadude]

If I did it your way I would definitely want the outside piece to be straight as Halitech stated.  That is going to be seen more easily and deviations will be more obvious.

[animal]

3 hours ago, Halitech said:

the stitch line is going to be off regardless because the outside arc is larger then the inside arc. The inside will always be smaller. marking the outside will be easier because you can lay it flat but you may want to put a bit more space between the holes on the arc itself

 

3 hours ago, Tugadude said:

If I did it your way I would definitely want the outside piece to be straight as Halitech stated.  That is going to be seen more easily and deviations will be more obvious.

And so it is, I will try to make the second one, slowly, and put more space between the hole, previously I used 4mm diamond pron fork, maybe I will try for the 6mm one. hope it will affected the gap for the inside arc. 

thanks guys for your share! best of luck always.

[animal]

Guys, thank you , I did it! The stitching line now form straight line.

Here's the body & the edge.

Question about this 2nd pouch:

1. The edge is still rough even I've sand it, maybe the sand number isn't correct?

2. The under side of the pouch is swelling, I refer to this example made by @understood_leather on instagram. The gusset type is similar, but they have perfect bottom (under side), still flat. Is it because my material to thin? When I did stitch I pull it gently on curved area but still the result have a little tug on bottom.

Would you guys please share your ideas to this case =)

Edited October 8, 2016 by animal

[RockyAussie]

Try packing it with cards untill firm and leave for a couple of days or stick into the fridge overnight. The example leather looks a little firmer but could be packed a bit before picture taken and may have some lining as well.

 

Edited October 8, 2016 by RockyAussie
answer shows twice

[Halitech]

Did you burnish your edge yet or just sand it? Just sanding will not give you a smooth edge, you need to burnish it as well

 

Actually, if you look at the lower left corner in your example, you can see where it pulls up a bit where the stitching is. Also, it looks like they probably did machine stitching or used a very thin thread compared to your heavier thread.

[animal]

17 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Try packing it with cards untill firm and leave for a couple of days or stick into the fridge overnight. The example leather looks a little firmer but could be packed a bit before picture taken and may have some lining as well.

 

After I finished the last one, I try to fill the case with maximum cards, and it look better shape, maybe if I stiff it with your method before do finishing, it might have good look even I'm not filling the cards. thank you ^^

 

12 hours ago, Halitech said:

Did you burnish your edge yet or just sand it? Just sanding will not give you a smooth edge, you need to burnish it as well

 

Actually, if you look at the lower left corner in your example, you can see where it pulls up a bit where the stitching is. Also, it looks like they probably did machine stitching or used a very thin thread compared to your heavier thread.

About edge finishing, I do sanding to make the edge even side to side and then burnished it, but still after I sand it and then burnished, not help that much for making beautiful edge (for this gusset case - it work well on another project without gusset) you might notice there's a "crack" on the edge. Maybe I'm not using the right technique when attaching main body to the gusset.

They aren't using machine, they use hand stitching and they hole both side before stitching, I don't know how they count the arc / curve side for the main body regarding to gusset, but they did. They are not gluing the parts yet when stitching. Here's the picture. 

 

[timesofplenty]

problem with dropbox, photobucket etc: your pics are gone

[animal]

On 10/11/2016 at 10:16 AM, timesofplenty said:

problem with dropbox, photobucket etc: your pics are gone

The first message? I forgot the picture on my dropbox is linked with this thread, so I did delete it. I'm sorry 

[Northmount]

This is an excellent example of why photos should be sized to fit here, and posted here.  When they are moved or deleted later, maybe even 5 years later, the thread may become useless as the examples are no longer available.

I encourage everyone that posts photos of their work, to post them to leatherworker.net either as a part of your post, or in a leatherworker.net gallery which you can then link into your post.

Everyone will appreciate it.

Tom

[timesofplenty]

On 10/15/2016 at 11:01 AM, northmount said:

This is an excellent example of why photos should be sized to fit here, and posted here.  When they are moved or deleted later, maybe even 5 years later, the thread may become useless as the examples are no longer available.

I encourage everyone that posts photos of their work, to post them to leatherworker.net either as a part of your post, or in a leatherworker.net gallery which you can then link into your post.

Everyone will appreciate it.

Tom

...and when can we get a "like" button

[animal]

 

On 10/16/2016 at 1:01 AM, northmount said:

This is an excellent example of why photos should be sized to fit here, and posted here.  When they are moved or deleted later, maybe even 5 years later, the thread may become useless as the examples are no longer available.

I encourage everyone that posts photos of their work, to post them to leatherworker.net either as a part of your post, or in a leatherworker.net gallery which you can then link into your post.

Everyone will appreciate it.

Tom

Noted Tom, next time I'll do post picture in leatherwork.net on next thread. Maybe I can fix this missing picture. So everyone can have the full part.