Members Constabulary Posted November 11, 2016 Members Report Posted November 11, 2016 It most likely will not mess up the tension but you better find a new one it´s there for a reason. Check with TECHSEW or other dealers in your era they should be able to help. They should not cost more than 10 bucks. If you can´t get out the remains fo the old thread guide drill a new hole and put in a new thread guide. Some don´t require to tap a thread as they have a tapered end but you probably want to glue them in with Loctite or s/t similar. F.i.: http://www.ebay.com/sch/Crafts/14339/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=thread+guide+pin Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members jshep Posted November 20, 2016 Author Members Report Posted November 20, 2016 I got one more question, did a search and couldn't really find much on this. I have a sailrite bias binder attachment for my old machine. It unfortunately doesn't fit on the Juki. So now I'm looking at finding a replacement to use on the new machine. I found the two options below. Looks like the top one comes with a different style of foot? Is there a reason why I should get this one? Will it make working with bias tape much easier than just getting a right angle attachment to use with my regular foot? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Juki-LU-562-LU-563-Needle-Plate-Feed-Dog-Walking-Foot-Binder-Choose-Tape-Size-/321199587119?hash=item4ac8fcbf2f http://www.ebay.com/itm/KP-160-JUKI-LU-562-LU-563-RAW-TAPE-BINDER-/161883493330?var=&hash=item25b10213d2:m:m4i0-ms-bd8SP7bLikBikoQ Quote
Members Constabulary Posted November 20, 2016 Members Report Posted November 20, 2016 5 hours ago, jshep said: I found the two options below. Looks like the top one comes with a different style of foot? different - compared with what? Please post some pictures, Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Uwe Posted November 20, 2016 Report Posted November 20, 2016 (edited) The first Ebay item referenced above is a complete kit with tape folder, throat plate/feed dog, presser feet (Ebay listings tend to vanish over time - it's best to upload a screen shot here to keep the topic relevant for years to come) The additional special binding throat plate has a built-in step to compensate for different thickness of material vs. material+tape and allows positioning the tape folder a little lower to center the folded tape better with the material being sewn. The special "stubby" inner binding presser foot and left-toed outer foot allow for the tape folder to be positioned very close to the presser feet without touching and the feet match the throat plate to improve holding and feeding the material. You'll be able to do simple binding operations with just the tape folder and regular/standard throat plate and presser feet. It all depends on the materials and thicknesses you're trying to work with. If the simple folder-only solution is not satisfactory, try the complete matching set of binding parts. Edited November 20, 2016 by Uwe Quote Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" ) Links: Videos
Members jshep Posted November 20, 2016 Author Members Report Posted November 20, 2016 Sorry about that, I'll make sure to post images rather then links from now on. Ok so this makes more sense to me I think. Since I'll be doing backpacks and there are definitely different widths at the seams I should probably get the one with the binding throat plate whereas if I was just doing projects where the width was consistent throughout I'd be able to get away with just the tape folder? Quote
Uwe Posted November 20, 2016 Report Posted November 20, 2016 The whole binding business is a science in itself. There's a lot of experimenting and trial/error involved in finding a setup that works for you. Watching youtube videos is a quick and cheap way to educate yourself on the available options. Most folks who do a lot of binding operations, especially on bags and other three dimensional projects (as opposed to flat things like wallets and belts) end up with a dedicated cylinder arm machine with a binder setup that moves back and forth with the walking foot. Depending on material thickness and thread size requirements there are three general classes of suitable machines. There many original machines and aftermarket copies/clones in each class, I'm just naming a few popular suspects, order from heavy to light duty: 1. Durkopp Adler 205 for heavy duty projects 2. Durkopp Adler 269/Juki 341 class for medium to heavy duty projects 3. Pfaff 335/Durkopp Adler 69 class for light to medium duty projects This video happens to show all three classes listed above performing binding operations (the first demo on the Adler 205 uses a fixed tape folder, the rest use moving binders): Here's a video of a Durkopp Adler 205 class machine doing a binding operation with a moving binder. Some flatbed machines like the Pfaff 145/545 (unfortunately not available on a Juki 562/563 to my knowledge) can also be fitted with a moving synchronized binders that connect to the feed dog for synchronized movement as shown in this video: Quote Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" ) Links: Videos
Members chuckgaudette Posted November 20, 2016 Members Report Posted November 20, 2016 Uwe, what binding attachment would you recommend for the PFAFF 335? I don't do binding often so I don't want to spend a lot money on one. Most of my bags use 1.5 -3 mm calf or cow leather. Quote
Members Firestar1485 Posted January 4, 2017 Members Report Posted January 4, 2017 (edited) As a fellow Juki owner, I thought you might appreciate this ... https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2935348/Juki LU 562 563 Manual.pdf This 100+ page PDF file that I assembled with really helpful information on the Juki LU 562/563 series that I am working on. The PDF includes Juki manual, Juki parts list, Repair/Service Chapter from an Aircrew Equipmentman Manual, and Singer 111 manual and parts list. I enlarged the critical diagrams too. Feel free to download a copy if you think it will help or be a good resource when needed. Juki LU 562 563 Manual.pdf Edited January 4, 2017 by northmount Uploaded file, links often disappear, esp dropbox Quote
Members jshep Posted January 13, 2017 Author Members Report Posted January 13, 2017 Thanks everyone for all the info!! I'm still having some issues with getting a binder to work on my juki. I purchased the tape folder, throat plate/feed dog, presser feet that I mentioned early (the ebay listing). One thing I'm struggling with is to get the tape folder (the simple metal folder that you would attach to the machine somewhere) attached. On my old machine there two holes that worked perfectly for my other binder, but on the juki the holes are on the bobbin plate and they are a really odd size (can't seem to find a screw that fits anywhere, anyone know where I could find one that would fit?). Uwe, would I need an attachment like something in the video you posted above for the Pfaff 545 to attach just the binder? I don't see any other holes that could for the attachments. I just cannot seem to get this to work and my online research is coming up with no solutions or info, feeling a little frustrated. Quote
Uwe Posted January 13, 2017 Report Posted January 13, 2017 (edited) You just need a right slide plate with suitable holes in the right location. The hole in a standard right slide plate for the Juki 562 class is very likely a #10-32 thread. At least several of my slide plates take that size. Luckily most hardware stores carry size #10-32 screws. Most other screws on vintage sewing machines are specialty sizes that you will never find at a normal hardware store. The reality is that many folks "customize" their slide plates by either forcing a different size thread through the hole or drilling and tapping a brand new hole. All of which is fine, really. But there's no way of us knowing exactly what your slide plate is threaded for right now. Many slide plates also have a second thread hole in the top right corner (also threaded for #10-32 on mine) which allows you to lock the slide plate in place to make sure it doesn't move while you're sewing. When you buy additional slide plates, make sure they're the correct "right side" ones. The slide plates for the right have a thinned out area underneath that allows room for the thread and hook to do their thing. The slide plate for the left side are flat (and too thick) on the underside. It's important that the screw thread does NOT extend below the bottom surface of the plate because it may interfere with or damage the hook. Get a screw that is a little too long. Remove the plate and mount the binder and tighten the screw, then cut off the part of the screw that sticks below the bottom surface with a hacksaw/grinder/Dremel and file it nice and flat. Your slide plate won't win any beauty pageants afterwards, but at least it'll work. Here's one example of a plate that has been customized by the previous owner (silver) and a standard, unmodified slide plate (black) Industrious folks who do a lot of binding with different binders have bought multiple slide plates to easily swap out one binder for another, or back to a standard plate without having to fuss with screws and aligning things again. Slide plates are cheap at around $11 each on Ebay, the banner vendors, or from me. Edited January 13, 2017 by Uwe Quote Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" ) Links: Videos
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