First Try at Japanning On a Restoration Project

[Evo160K]

Thank you Lady and Gentlemen for your kind comments.  You and many of the other fine members on LW continue to inspire and educate me about these remarkable old pieces of history.  When one contemplates the significance of the sewing machine to the advancement of mankind, it boggles the mind.

 

My wife has kept me occupied with "honey-do's" and other insignificant (please keep that to yourselves), shopping chores to the point where I haven't been able to type what I did.  I will later today or Sunday at the latest, I promise.

[Evo160K]

Japanning

 

Black japanning was commonly used 100 years ago on sewing machines, phonographs, iron bedsteads, Stanley planes, other ironwork and of course all Ford model T automobiles until about 1924.  It’s a fascinating process, I think you’ll enjoy it.  The short version is: add turpentine, boiled linseed oil and asphaltum together.  Paint it on.  Bake it.  Done.

 

First a disclaimer of sorts:  recall this humble writer is new to sewing machines, sewing and japanning for sure, so take what is said here lightly.  I’ve read probably 25 different articles, watched maybe 20 videos and japanned 3-4  test pieces, none of which look good enough to be compared to an original japan finish.  Actually my only problem has been pinpoint air bubbles so far, maybe the brush bristles are too fine and trapping air.  The picture above shows my best result to date.  I would suggest you read the articles below, watch the videos and run your own tests.  There’s even a mesmerizing four part video on making an oriental lacquer brush.  You’ll find a lot more material on the internet, of course, if you want to do additional research.

 

The formula and process explained in the first red link below is generally what I followed; be sure to read the questions/comments at the end of the article, one I asked, it explains my complete recipe and process.  My test sample, Senefelder's Liquid Asphaltum, came from Graphic Chemical & Ink Company,  https://www.graphicchemical.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?Search=Yes&sppp=25 .  I thinned it a bit with turpentine and added about 10-12%  by volume of boiled linseed oil (BLO).  The BLO makes the finish hard and gives it a gloss.  Some use spar varnish instead of BLO.  I used the electric oven in our kitchen for curing.  The body is too large to fit, so I’ll have to either cold cure it over 30 days, take it to a commercial oven like a powder coater or build an oven out of a 55 gallon steel drum.   There’s a link below for building a diy electric oven for those who are so inclined.  I believe 3-4 electric heat lamps will reach well over 450 deg F., and can be used in place of ceramic heaters.  Liberty On The Hudson, the company in the second red link, offers a ready made Black Japanning Asphaltum paint that is to be cold cured only; I have a quart on order (it’s out of stock until some time in January).  I’m not sure what I’m going to do about the head.

 

Well hopefully that’s a start on japanning.  Ask any questions you like.  Recall, I’m learning as well, so let’s learn together.

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WAI0sC4tJc&feature=youtu.be  (click on “show more” for this persons process)

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-1kxGqmcp0

 

http://lumberjocks.com/JayT/blog/32704#comment-3549554

 

http://ismacs.net/sewing_machine_articles/japanning.html

 

http://www.homediystuff.com/building-a-diy-oven-from-filing-cabinet/

 

http://libertyonthehudson.com/pontypool.html

 

http://www.micaprintmaking.com/wp-content/uploads/msds/graphic_liquid_asphaltum.pdf

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsbQAFQzulQ

 

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=handtools&file=articles_117.shtml

 

https://books.google.com/books?id=L2MJAAAAIAAJ&pg=PA20&lpg=PA20&dq=how+to+make+a+japanning+stove&source=bl&ots=N26USd-E7d&sig=VGxlA0p6yquQgfHto4WSrKDMM1Y&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjjwfLKmNfPAhVEgx4KHWDYALkQ6AEIQzAG#v=onepage&q=how%20to%20make%20a%20japanning%20stove&f=false

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontypool_japan

 

http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/P-R.htm#paint1  Unless you want to get into the minutia, scroll down to the paragraph beginning: The basic oven drying paint for the Model T was what historical sources call “Japan Black”.

 

        http://www.cranialstorage.com/Wood/japanning.html

 

   

Edited December 4, 2016 by Evo160K

[dikman]

Thanks Evo, looks like a bit of reading ahead of me. Basically a pretty simple process, but like all simple things the devil is in the detail.

[MADMAX22]

Thanks for all the info. 

One thing I read when I was doing some research previously on this subject is that some of the guys recommended dupli color engine enamel paint. Said it gave a similar result albeit not original and I think it still needs to be baked on for best results. Was thinking of going that route just because of the  plan to paint a 31-15 I have in a different color.

Although the idea of a paint brushing the finish is appealing.  

[TinkerTailor]

5 hours ago, Evo160K said:

Actually my only problem has been pinpoint air bubbles so far, maybe the brush bristles are too fine and trapping air.

Guys who do resin casting and work with epoxys will run a heat gun over the surface right away after application, apparently the heat will reduce the surface tension, as well the airflow will gently agitate the surface, causing the bubbles to rise and pop while the material is still liquid enough to flow back in to fill the holes. May be worth a try on the next attempt.

Edited December 5, 2016 by TinkerTailor

[Evo160K]

You are all most welcome.  Hope someone can come up with the right recipe for sewing machines, seems everyone has their own idea about how to do it, and most of the recipes are for woodworking planes.  Seems the planes have less gloss though than the sewing machines, that may or may not be better, depending upon your application.

 

On Sunday, December 04, 2016 at 8:34 PM, TinkerTailor said:

Guys who do resin casting and work with epoxys will run a heat gun over the surface right away after application, apparently the heat will reduce the surface tension, as well the airflow will gently agitate the surface, causing the bubbles to rise and pop while the material is still liquid enough to flow back in to fill the holes. May be worth a try on the next attempt.

TinkerTailor, that's a great suggestion, I'll give it a try.  Thank you.

 

Jimi - why is the foot lift lever on your beautiful machine a lighter color?  Second question (I'm full of questions), did you tell me once you put a light coat of shellac on your  machine?

[MADMAX22]

Have you buffed the part out? I am pretty sure that will shine it up some. I actually use a metal wheel polishing compound on my old machines. It actually gets the old dirt from years and years of fingers touching them off and brings up a very nice shine. 

It is amazing how long it takes to get all the brown residue off of old machines. 

[Evo160K]

MADMAX22,

Haven't buffed anything yet.  Are you using the polishing compound on the japan or on the unpainted parts?  What color compound and what type of buffing wheel do you use?

Interesting you mention that brown residue.  I just bought an Engine Cleaning Gun Solvent Air Sprayer Degreaser Siphon Tool to attach to the compressor.  I'm planning to increase the pressure to help knock off that residue.  I'm going to use paint thinner and spray it inside the machine, the thinner shouldn't cause rust like a water based product would.  Haven't tried it yet, but it sure looks substantial......certainly was priced right.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/302035588980?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Constabulary]

for the brownish gunk on the outside of machines try a washing soda solution and a rag. But always be careful with the decals if you want to keep them. I once soaked a patcher machine in a hot washing soda solution and the brown gunk was easy to wipe of but I´d recommend that for complete restorations only

[Darren Brosowski]

I usually use a high gloss automotive lacquer just because it looks pretty