First Try at Japanning On a Restoration Project

[Evo160K]

 

Looks too glossy to me for a Singer 45K25 that was built in 1940, but then, I've never seen a restored 45K or even an original one with decals (mine was sprayed over).  Does anyone know how they looked new compared to the test piece?   It's no problem to tone down the gloss with a fine polishing compound.

Researching japanning has been extremely interesting as well as educational.  I like the process a great deal, it brushes on easily (no need for masking tape), it fills the imperfections, $100 in materials will probably do 6-8 machines and it's the authentic finish.  It can be stove cured or air cured, depending upon how much time is available.  The test piece was stove cured.

Your comments and suggestions are welcome.

 

 

 

[LumpenDoodle2]

Very nice finish.   I can't help specifically, but have attached a picture of a 45K for comparason.   Keep in mind that you'll have 75 years of 'weathering', so it depends on whether you are after factory fresh or aged, I suppose.

 

[TinkerTailor]

I have a near new condition iron body domestic and the japanning is really glossy. Think about it, if you are going to put gilding all over the machine, and make it sparkle, you would also make sure the paint is shiny.

Lumpendoodle2's is 75 years old and you can still see reflections on the arm.

[Constabulary]

@ Lumpendoodle - A very nice machine you have!!!!

I have some pic of a pre 1945 Singer 45Dxx (not mine) - still very shiny

 

[LumpenDoodle2]

Sorry to say that isn't my machine, I just uploaded it for comparison, but I would love to have the space to own one.   I do have several Singers, and every one of them gleams, even the 29K whick spent 50 years sitting untouched, in an old garage at a farm.

Maybe I should consider selling my 29K and buying a 45K.

[MADMAX22]

Great start. Can you share a quick rundown of the process/ingredients you used. 

Thanks

Oh and to add every smooth black singer I have gotten has had a nice shiny surface hiding under a 100yrs  of finger oil and dust. 

Edited December 1, 2016 by MADMAX22

[dikman]

I'm also interested in the process you used (just out of curiosity 'cos I don't know much about it).

[Uwe]

I like the glossy look and I think it's quite accurate. The 1934 documentary "Birth of a sewing Machine" shows, among many other things, just how glossy these machines were around the 17:11 mark when the lady applies the decals. The japanned paint bath dip starts a little earlier at the 15:08 mark. 

I too am super curious to know the details of your paint process.  I've been contemplating power-coating some parts in glossy black to see how it turns out.

Edited December 2, 2016 by Uwe

[jimi]

Hey Al, great to see your machine coming along! that looks great, very nice finish. i would say bright and shiny was the finish on these machines also. i have tried to get some pictures taken of the finish, this as you know has not been restored and is very shiny on top and the bottom part has suffered some wear so it is not as shiny. 1950 

Edited December 2, 2016 by jimi

[Constabulary]

Glen -  so sooner or later we can read a japanning 1O1 here, right?  It´s indeed an interesting process I´d like to read more about. Where have you sourced the "paint"?

  Jimi - have I ever mentioned that I hate you for your nice 45K´s? 

[Evo160K]

Thank you Lady and Gentlemen for your kind comments.  You and many of the other fine members on LW continue to inspire and educate me about these remarkable old pieces of history.  When one contemplates the significance of the sewing machine to the advancement of mankind, it boggles the mind.

 

My wife has kept me occupied with "honey-do's" and other insignificant (please keep that to yourselves), shopping chores to the point where I haven't been able to type what I did.  I will later today or Sunday at the latest, I promise.

[Evo160K]

Japanning

 

Black japanning was commonly used 100 years ago on sewing machines, phonographs, iron bedsteads, Stanley planes, other ironwork and of course all Ford model T automobiles until about 1924.  It’s a fascinating process, I think you’ll enjoy it.  The short version is: add turpentine, boiled linseed oil and asphaltum together.  Paint it on.  Bake it.  Done.

 

First a disclaimer of sorts:  recall this humble writer is new to sewing machines, sewing and japanning for sure, so take what is said here lightly.  I’ve read probably 25 different articles, watched maybe 20 videos and japanned 3-4  test pieces, none of which look good enough to be compared to an original japan finish.  Actually my only problem has been pinpoint air bubbles so far, maybe the brush bristles are too fine and trapping air.  The picture above shows my best result to date.  I would suggest you read the articles below, watch the videos and run your own tests.  There’s even a mesmerizing four part video on making an oriental lacquer brush.  You’ll find a lot more material on the internet, of course, if you want to do additional research.

 

The formula and process explained in the first red link below is generally what I followed; be sure to read the questions/comments at the end of the article, one I asked, it explains my complete recipe and process.  My test sample, Senefelder's Liquid Asphaltum, came from Graphic Chemical & Ink Company,  https://www.graphicchemical.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?Search=Yes&sppp=25 .  I thinned it a bit with turpentine and added about 10-12%  by volume of boiled linseed oil (BLO).  The BLO makes the finish hard and gives it a gloss.  Some use spar varnish instead of BLO.  I used the electric oven in our kitchen for curing.  The body is too large to fit, so I’ll have to either cold cure it over 30 days, take it to a commercial oven like a powder coater or build an oven out of a 55 gallon steel drum.   There’s a link below for building a diy electric oven for those who are so inclined.  I believe 3-4 electric heat lamps will reach well over 450 deg F., and can be used in place of ceramic heaters.  Liberty On The Hudson, the company in the second red link, offers a ready made Black Japanning Asphaltum paint that is to be cold cured only; I have a quart on order (it’s out of stock until some time in January).  I’m not sure what I’m going to do about the head.

 

Well hopefully that’s a start on japanning.  Ask any questions you like.  Recall, I’m learning as well, so let’s learn together.

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WAI0sC4tJc&feature=youtu.be  (click on “show more” for this persons process)

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-1kxGqmcp0

 

http://lumberjocks.com/JayT/blog/32704#comment-3549554

 

http://ismacs.net/sewing_machine_articles/japanning.html

 

http://www.homediystuff.com/building-a-diy-oven-from-filing-cabinet/

 

http://libertyonthehudson.com/pontypool.html

 

http://www.micaprintmaking.com/wp-content/uploads/msds/graphic_liquid_asphaltum.pdf

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsbQAFQzulQ

 

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=handtools&file=articles_117.shtml

 

https://books.google.com/books?id=L2MJAAAAIAAJ&pg=PA20&lpg=PA20&dq=how+to+make+a+japanning+stove&source=bl&ots=N26USd-E7d&sig=VGxlA0p6yquQgfHto4WSrKDMM1Y&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjjwfLKmNfPAhVEgx4KHWDYALkQ6AEIQzAG#v=onepage&q=how%20to%20make%20a%20japanning%20stove&f=false

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontypool_japan

 

http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/P-R.htm#paint1  Unless you want to get into the minutia, scroll down to the paragraph beginning: The basic oven drying paint for the Model T was what historical sources call “Japan Black”.

 

        http://www.cranialstorage.com/Wood/japanning.html

 

   

Edited December 4, 2016 by Evo160K

[dikman]

Thanks Evo, looks like a bit of reading ahead of me. Basically a pretty simple process, but like all simple things the devil is in the detail.

[MADMAX22]

Thanks for all the info. 

One thing I read when I was doing some research previously on this subject is that some of the guys recommended dupli color engine enamel paint. Said it gave a similar result albeit not original and I think it still needs to be baked on for best results. Was thinking of going that route just because of the  plan to paint a 31-15 I have in a different color.

Although the idea of a paint brushing the finish is appealing.  

[TinkerTailor]

5 hours ago, Evo160K said:

Actually my only problem has been pinpoint air bubbles so far, maybe the brush bristles are too fine and trapping air.

Guys who do resin casting and work with epoxys will run a heat gun over the surface right away after application, apparently the heat will reduce the surface tension, as well the airflow will gently agitate the surface, causing the bubbles to rise and pop while the material is still liquid enough to flow back in to fill the holes. May be worth a try on the next attempt.

Edited December 5, 2016 by TinkerTailor

[Evo160K]

You are all most welcome.  Hope someone can come up with the right recipe for sewing machines, seems everyone has their own idea about how to do it, and most of the recipes are for woodworking planes.  Seems the planes have less gloss though than the sewing machines, that may or may not be better, depending upon your application.

 

On Sunday, December 04, 2016 at 8:34 PM, TinkerTailor said:

Guys who do resin casting and work with epoxys will run a heat gun over the surface right away after application, apparently the heat will reduce the surface tension, as well the airflow will gently agitate the surface, causing the bubbles to rise and pop while the material is still liquid enough to flow back in to fill the holes. May be worth a try on the next attempt.

TinkerTailor, that's a great suggestion, I'll give it a try.  Thank you.

 

Jimi - why is the foot lift lever on your beautiful machine a lighter color?  Second question (I'm full of questions), did you tell me once you put a light coat of shellac on your  machine?

[MADMAX22]

Have you buffed the part out? I am pretty sure that will shine it up some. I actually use a metal wheel polishing compound on my old machines. It actually gets the old dirt from years and years of fingers touching them off and brings up a very nice shine. 

It is amazing how long it takes to get all the brown residue off of old machines. 

[Evo160K]

MADMAX22,

Haven't buffed anything yet.  Are you using the polishing compound on the japan or on the unpainted parts?  What color compound and what type of buffing wheel do you use?

Interesting you mention that brown residue.  I just bought an Engine Cleaning Gun Solvent Air Sprayer Degreaser Siphon Tool to attach to the compressor.  I'm planning to increase the pressure to help knock off that residue.  I'm going to use paint thinner and spray it inside the machine, the thinner shouldn't cause rust like a water based product would.  Haven't tried it yet, but it sure looks substantial......certainly was priced right.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/302035588980?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Constabulary]

for the brownish gunk on the outside of machines try a washing soda solution and a rag. But always be careful with the decals if you want to keep them. I once soaked a patcher machine in a hot washing soda solution and the brown gunk was easy to wipe of but I´d recommend that for complete restorations only

[Darren Brosowski]

I usually use a high gloss automotive lacquer just because it looks pretty

 

[Evo160K]

Darren,

Your comment brings up an interesting question about the restoration.  Once Singer applied the decorations/decals like in the video Uwe posted above, were they clear coated then "polished" or not?  Do you feel the edge of the decals on the industrial machines?  You can hardly feel the decals on my wife's K28.

[jimi]

Hi Al, the bar is lighter because i made this one, i have to now look for the way to lift it the easiest way?? knee or foot? but i dont see how the foot lever will fit under the treadle base so i suppose it will have to be the knee lifter. and yes i did say i gave a coat of shellac to the old dull machines, just to give´m a bit of life. similar to french polishing, with a clean cotton rag.  

[TinkerTailor]

9 hours ago, MADMAX22 said:

It is amazing how long it takes to get all the brown residue off of old machines. 

I use wd40. It is a crappy lube but is great for cleaning. The propellants and solvents in it break down and loosen lot of kinds of gunk, then I wash it away with normal soap. Had better luck with the aerosol than the pump spray liquid but both work. I usually spray it and give it a quick scrub with a plastic brush, and then any stubborn areas i will soak a paper towel piece with wd40 and place it over the spot overnight. Sometimes i will also use carburetor cleaner on things, it works faster but it costs more and can damage some finishes.

6 hours ago, Evo160K said:

Once Singer applied the decorations/decals like in the video Uwe posted above, were they clear coated then "polished" or not?

If i am correct, they shellaced over the machines after decaling. Those decals are pretty delicate, and would not have lasted 100 years if they didn't protect them some way. I am pretty sure that modern clear coat was not invented/perfected yet and shellac was the clear of the day. I believe that some of the 'dirt" on old machines that makes them appear grimy is old shellac. Shellac will darken with age, in furniture this makes old pieces look richer as it darkens and is desirable. In wood, clean old shellac finishes can be reconstituted and renewed with some alcohol and a fresh application of shellac. In sewing machines, old shellac it looks like old oil gunk and for sure has oil on it/in it making a basic refinish impossible.  Alcohol dissolves shellac so alcohol in cleaning will remove the old shellac and leave everything clean, but delicate. It is important to redo this protection or the decals will be gone in no time with use if you clean with alcohol.

I would bet that they did not polish after clear. Clear finishes, even then, could be layed down very smooth and shiney. The additional cost and risk of damage to the decals due to how thin the topcoat is would not be worth it.  With the thickness of the japanning, and simplicity of the bodies and parts on these machines, hitting them with a giant polishing buff in the most seen areas would have been fairly simple and cheap before decaling. I could see them doing it, though i have not confirmed.

As to restoring, While period correct clear finish is a cool idea, todays clear paints are miles and miles better and more durable than they were in 1916 and come in a range of matte-gloss finishes.  I would get some high quality automotive clear and put on 5 really coats.....If only for durability

[MADMAX22]

17 hours ago, Evo160K said:

MADMAX22,

Haven't buffed anything yet.  Are you using the polishing compound on the japan or on the unpainted parts?  What color compound and what type of buffing wheel do you use?

Interesting you mention that brown residue.  I just bought an Engine Cleaning Gun Solvent Air Sprayer Degreaser Siphon Tool to attach to the compressor.  I'm planning to increase the pressure to help knock off that residue.  I'm going to use paint thinner and spray it inside the machine, the thinner shouldn't cause rust like a water based product would.  Haven't tried it yet, but it sure looks substantial......certainly was priced right.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/302035588980?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

8 hours ago, TinkerTailor said:

I use wd40. It is a crappy lube but is great for cleaning. The propellants and solvents in it break down and loosen lot of kinds of gunk, then I wash it away with normal soap. Had better luck with the aerosol than the pump spray liquid but both work. I usually spray it and give it a quick scrub with a plastic brush, and then any stubborn areas i will soak a paper towel piece with wd40 and place it over the spot overnight. Sometimes i will also use carburetor cleaner on things, it works faster but it costs more and can damage some finishes.

 

This is the stuff I use to clean it with http://www.autozone.com/wash-cleaners-and-exterior-care-products/polish/blue-magic-metal-cream-polish/142419_0_0/?checkfit=true

Not what it was intended for but..... I usually take a shop type paper towel and get a little on it and rub it in and let it sit for a minute or so then buff it out by hand (basically a clean papertowel) then I usually use some for of wax like hard turtle wax. Leaves a nice shiny clean machine. 

This has worked for me on my 111 and 31.

[Yetibelle]

I think your part looks perfect, I don't think it is that far from the original coating.  How hard was that to do?  Was it time consuming? 

Now dip the whole machine!