First Try at Japanning On a Restoration Project

[Evo160K]

Darren,

Your comment brings up an interesting question about the restoration.  Once Singer applied the decorations/decals like in the video Uwe posted above, were they clear coated then "polished" or not?  Do you feel the edge of the decals on the industrial machines?  You can hardly feel the decals on my wife's K28.

[jimi]

Hi Al, the bar is lighter because i made this one, i have to now look for the way to lift it the easiest way?? knee or foot? but i dont see how the foot lever will fit under the treadle base so i suppose it will have to be the knee lifter. and yes i did say i gave a coat of shellac to the old dull machines, just to give´m a bit of life. similar to french polishing, with a clean cotton rag.  

[TinkerTailor]

9 hours ago, MADMAX22 said:

It is amazing how long it takes to get all the brown residue off of old machines. 

I use wd40. It is a crappy lube but is great for cleaning. The propellants and solvents in it break down and loosen lot of kinds of gunk, then I wash it away with normal soap. Had better luck with the aerosol than the pump spray liquid but both work. I usually spray it and give it a quick scrub with a plastic brush, and then any stubborn areas i will soak a paper towel piece with wd40 and place it over the spot overnight. Sometimes i will also use carburetor cleaner on things, it works faster but it costs more and can damage some finishes.

6 hours ago, Evo160K said:

Once Singer applied the decorations/decals like in the video Uwe posted above, were they clear coated then "polished" or not?

If i am correct, they shellaced over the machines after decaling. Those decals are pretty delicate, and would not have lasted 100 years if they didn't protect them some way. I am pretty sure that modern clear coat was not invented/perfected yet and shellac was the clear of the day. I believe that some of the 'dirt" on old machines that makes them appear grimy is old shellac. Shellac will darken with age, in furniture this makes old pieces look richer as it darkens and is desirable. In wood, clean old shellac finishes can be reconstituted and renewed with some alcohol and a fresh application of shellac. In sewing machines, old shellac it looks like old oil gunk and for sure has oil on it/in it making a basic refinish impossible.  Alcohol dissolves shellac so alcohol in cleaning will remove the old shellac and leave everything clean, but delicate. It is important to redo this protection or the decals will be gone in no time with use if you clean with alcohol.

I would bet that they did not polish after clear. Clear finishes, even then, could be layed down very smooth and shiney. The additional cost and risk of damage to the decals due to how thin the topcoat is would not be worth it.  With the thickness of the japanning, and simplicity of the bodies and parts on these machines, hitting them with a giant polishing buff in the most seen areas would have been fairly simple and cheap before decaling. I could see them doing it, though i have not confirmed.

As to restoring, While period correct clear finish is a cool idea, todays clear paints are miles and miles better and more durable than they were in 1916 and come in a range of matte-gloss finishes.  I would get some high quality automotive clear and put on 5 really coats.....If only for durability

[MADMAX22]

17 hours ago, Evo160K said:

MADMAX22,

Haven't buffed anything yet.  Are you using the polishing compound on the japan or on the unpainted parts?  What color compound and what type of buffing wheel do you use?

Interesting you mention that brown residue.  I just bought an Engine Cleaning Gun Solvent Air Sprayer Degreaser Siphon Tool to attach to the compressor.  I'm planning to increase the pressure to help knock off that residue.  I'm going to use paint thinner and spray it inside the machine, the thinner shouldn't cause rust like a water based product would.  Haven't tried it yet, but it sure looks substantial......certainly was priced right.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/302035588980?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

8 hours ago, TinkerTailor said:

I use wd40. It is a crappy lube but is great for cleaning. The propellants and solvents in it break down and loosen lot of kinds of gunk, then I wash it away with normal soap. Had better luck with the aerosol than the pump spray liquid but both work. I usually spray it and give it a quick scrub with a plastic brush, and then any stubborn areas i will soak a paper towel piece with wd40 and place it over the spot overnight. Sometimes i will also use carburetor cleaner on things, it works faster but it costs more and can damage some finishes.

 

This is the stuff I use to clean it with http://www.autozone.com/wash-cleaners-and-exterior-care-products/polish/blue-magic-metal-cream-polish/142419_0_0/?checkfit=true

Not what it was intended for but..... I usually take a shop type paper towel and get a little on it and rub it in and let it sit for a minute or so then buff it out by hand (basically a clean papertowel) then I usually use some for of wax like hard turtle wax. Leaves a nice shiny clean machine. 

This has worked for me on my 111 and 31.

[Yetibelle]

I think your part looks perfect, I don't think it is that far from the original coating.  How hard was that to do?  Was it time consuming? 

Now dip the whole machine!

 

 

[Evo160K]

4 hours ago, Yetibelle said:

I think your part looks perfect, I don't think it is that far from the original coating.  How hard was that to do?  Was it time consuming?

Now dip the whole machine!

 

 

Yetibelle,

Thanks for the compliment, but it's quite a bit away from perfect.

Once you have your japan, brushing it on is easy,  I suspect you could apply each coat on the whole machine in 40 minutes or less.  Each coat is supposed to dry over night, and oven curing each coat then takes about 5 hours, so you're looking at 15 hours or so over about 3 days.  If you want a quick over view, read the fist red link in my post from Sunday at 3:08.

"Now dip the whole machine!"  That would be ideal, but I think it would run into about $200-$300 worth of material.

 

[Evo160K]

For those who are interested in how Singer applied japanning, you might find the attached page from a Singer brochure found in the Smithsonian Libraries educational.  TinkerTailor was on the right track when he mentioned coating over the decals.

 

Edited December 12, 2016 by Evo160K

[jimi]

Great stuff Al, very informative. thanks for sharing. jimi.

[Uwe]

On 12/12/2016 at 2:01 AM, Evo160K said:

Singer brochure found in the Smithsonian Libraries educational

Great find! Do you have a link to the original Singer brochure at the Smithsonian? I'd like to read the rest of that brochure.

 

[jimi]

down the 1st page a little Uwe.