First Try at Japanning On a Restoration Project

[Evo160K]

4 hours ago, Yetibelle said:

I think your part looks perfect, I don't think it is that far from the original coating.  How hard was that to do?  Was it time consuming?

Now dip the whole machine!

 

 

Yetibelle,

Thanks for the compliment, but it's quite a bit away from perfect.

Once you have your japan, brushing it on is easy,  I suspect you could apply each coat on the whole machine in 40 minutes or less.  Each coat is supposed to dry over night, and oven curing each coat then takes about 5 hours, so you're looking at 15 hours or so over about 3 days.  If you want a quick over view, read the fist red link in my post from Sunday at 3:08.

"Now dip the whole machine!"  That would be ideal, but I think it would run into about $200-$300 worth of material.

 

[Evo160K]

For those who are interested in how Singer applied japanning, you might find the attached page from a Singer brochure found in the Smithsonian Libraries educational.  TinkerTailor was on the right track when he mentioned coating over the decals.

 

Edited December 12, 2016 by Evo160K

[jimi]

Great stuff Al, very informative. thanks for sharing. jimi.

[Uwe]

On 12/12/2016 at 2:01 AM, Evo160K said:

Singer brochure found in the Smithsonian Libraries educational

Great find! Do you have a link to the original Singer brochure at the Smithsonian? I'd like to read the rest of that brochure.

 

[jimi]

down the 1st page a little Uwe.

[Evo160K]

Uwe, Jimi,

Thank you.  Here's the Smithsonian link to the full brochure containing the japanning description, it's similar to the Kilbowie movie to some extent.

http://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollections/Trade-Literature/Sewing-Machines/SIL/0074/imagepages/image1.htm

And fyi here's the Smithsonian link to all (?) of the Singer literature:

http://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollections/Trade-Literature/Sewing-Machines/CF/single-record.cfm?AuthorizedCompany=Singer Manufacturing Company

 

Bad News!!   The first test piece, the one shown above, recently developed micro, cross hatched shaped, fractures throughout.  They're easily felt with the fingernail.  A friend who is a material failure analysis engineer with Orbital Sciences Corp (think: rockets) said he's sure the three coats were too thick and curing at differential rates creating stress cracks. The three coats were each thicker than was suggested in most of the literature I read.  I knew that when they were applied, but must say it's surprising the fractures took so long to develop.  The plan is to strip and re-do the piece with lighter coats......to be continued.

 

 

Edited December 17, 2016 by Evo160K

[Evo160K]

You'll recall from reading my previous post in December, the japanning on the test piece developed micro cracks throughout.  Needless to say, I was extremely disappointed, particularly after doing so much research, thinking and testing.  Well the Pontypool japan finally arrived  in early March from Liberty On the Hudson, it's totally mixed and ready to apply.

Attached are a picture of the original test piece that cracked, was stripped and was coated with Pontypool, as well as several pictures of other pieces that I coated recently.  They each have three thin coats, each coat sat in a dust free environment overnight, and then each coat was heated in the wifes electric kitchen oven as follows: 2 x 250 deg. F, 2 x 325 deg. F and 1 x 395 deg.  F.  They all turned out glossy and hard to the fingernail.  So far I prefer the Pontypool to mixing my own.  If the parts don't crack in the next two weeks, I'll call it as good as my patience permits and go ahead and japan the head.  Since the head won't fit in our oven, it'll have to japan it and air cure for 30 days.

Well that's the latest.  The japan goes a loooong way, that $85 quart will for sure cover quite a few machines.

 

 

Edited April 4, 2017 by Evo160K

[Constabulary]

For sure an interesting technique and its great to learn about it  but wouldn´t it be easier to use a good glossy spray paint and apply 4 or 5 layer - or so? I know its not as authentic as japanning but at the end it will look almost the same I think and it takes less time and probably is cheaper too.

The polished hand wheel looks great BTW !!!!

[jimi]

Looking great Al, cant wait to see your restored machine! regads jimi.

[dikman]

Kudos to you for your perseverance! While it would be great to be able to re-create the original appearance, using the genuine coating, I think I'll agree with Constabulary and stick to black paint. Particularly as we're heading towards Winter and I'd never be able to get the stuff to airdry!!

But you're doing a great job and yep, I look forward to the end results.

[Evo160K]

Thank you one and all for your comments.  Your experience and knowledge with restorations and your willingness to share it are the primary reason I'm tackling such an unfamiliar project.

@ Constabulary   

 You're correct, spraying is easier and cheaper when you're set up to do it inside or have warm weather outside..  I can't spray inside, and spraying outside wasn't a consistent and reliable option over the winter.  Japanning was ideal in my case, plus I'm a bit of a pathfinder, so that as you know involves taking some arrows..

Thank you for your compliment on the hand wheel, wish I could take credit for it, but it came to me that way.  I believe it and the faceplate are nickel plated.

 

@ Jimi

Thanks Jimi.  I plan to start on the head shortly.  We have a room upstairs without hvac ducts and windows, so it's a dust free environment.  It should be an ideal place to do the japanning and to set for 30 days to cure .  Keep your fingers crossed..  

@ Dikman

Thank you.  Let's hope I don't take a fatal arrow on this last path.