Sewing Leather / Leather+Canvas Machine Advice

[CloudyCreek]

First time starting a new topic on leatherworker. I searched the topics before I decided to post this as I didn't want to ask the same questions that people have before (forgive if I am).

I've been working with leather for some years now and have been stitching everything by hand. I've also been using a Singer Heavy Duty to sew textiles (and some thin leather) for bags I've been designing. My question is - can anyone recommend a machine that I can sew leather with (looking at the Cobra Class 18) and that will work with sewing leather to canvas. My guess is I wouldn't want to use a sharpened leather needle while sewing leather to canvas as the sharp needle can cut the canvas? How thick of leather can the Class 18 sew? I'd like to sew 10 oz. plus and reserving hand sewing for knife sheaths and the like as I'd rather have my first machine be middle of the road. I realize one machine can't do everything so I'm thinking of starting with a flatbed and getting a cylinder bed should my needs/designs dictate. Also, my work space is in a basement. Is it an issue to take a fully assembled machine and stand down some stairs? I'm in Pennsylvania.

I assume with the tension and presser foot adjustments, I can sew all leather projects and move to all canvas projects?

 

Any insight is greatly appreacited!

[Constabulary]

Cobra 18 for sure can do the job (up to approx 20oz leather in total)  but since you are in PA you may consider a dealer closer to you (may save shipping costs), I´d check with Keystone Sewing or Toledo Sewing Machine Co.  Both have a very good reputation here.

No one knows how your "stairs situation" is but a fully assembled machine is tough to get up or down stairs - you at least have to take off the head (easy to do). But when you consider shipping you may get the machine disassembled anyway. if you buy form a dealer close to you probably can pick it up by your self.

 

Edited December 9, 2016 by Constabulary

[CowboyBob]

The flatbed machines just sit in the table,so the best way to ever haul or move a machine is to take it out of the stand(Tilt it back undo the belt set it back down & it lifts out),then if you have a table w/a servo motor it only weighs around 110 Lbs & 2 people can handle it easy & the head ways around 70 Lbs.

[brmax]

It may be an option in using your existing Singer machine you mention, please lets us know the model and we can better help at this stage.

As mentioned there are several companies that help answer questions here for members and in turn some purchase from these. There are many machines used with everyone here that are very old and newly purchased from everywhere on the globe, so welcome to the site and beware its one of them old school sites, people help others

good day

Floyd

[Constabulary]

Brmax - i had to google "Singer Heavy Duty" and the result put a little smile on my face - I guess you will smile too.

Interesting what "Singer" considers as heavy duty nowadays - I guess it depends on the point of view - kind of.

[Darren Brosowski]

If it is the Singer "Heavy Duty" that usually comes up then ANY industrial machine will be a ray of sunshine for CloudyCreek!

I have been working a lot recently with people making bags and most agree that they want, or should have bought, a cylinder bed machine. The CB227R/ Techsew 2700 or the CB341/Techsew 2750 are the machine of choice for these users

[Cascabel]

   As far as negotiating stairs go, if your machine comes in a box, the head and stand will arrive separately if you buy new.   Best to leave the pieces in their boxes, and lay the boxes down on their sides, and SLIDE them either up or down the stairs.   Open the boxes AFTER getting it up or down.   When I took delivery on my Cowboy 4500, I moved it up my stairs by myself as two separate pieces.    I had to strap the stand to a hand truck in order to slide it, as it did not come in a box.   I just laid the things down, and got behind them and pushed them up the stairs.   If going down, just go down the stairs a few of steps ahead of the load, and let it slide down by it's own weight while you control it.   I move heavy luggage up or down the same way.   Have a friend standing by in case you need a hand, but there is not usually enough room on stairs for two people to work together, so the sliding method seems to me to be the best  way to deal with the situation.  Just be careful that it doesn't get away from you !!    If your machine does not come in boxes, strap the head by itself to a hand truck for ease of handling.   If it is a flat-bead machine, simply turn the table upside down after removing any thread stands, or other protuberances, and slide it on it's top.

Edited December 10, 2016 by Cascabel
typo

[brmax]

It helps to have two people anyway ya look at it, moving a "machine head " or the stand itself into a new location, be residential or commercial.

These walking foot machines "industrial" 8hr days every day, several shifts, machines are tough and simply require some good help moving around.

The first things I do is fit wheels on stands for my particular setup, and each place and persons station is different, as should be. I cannot stress enough to a person interested in this to select a thread size or sizes very similar as this is going to be the best choice and most precise setup you can ask a professional to set up. There is simply no machine that can jump from hair thin thread to rope size threads without "proper adjustment" so I remind myself of this often.

It looks as though if bags are an item on the list, well the choice should lead towards the cylinder arm machine. Just because some of the tough ends or bottom sections to sew are really tough or impossible on a flat top, you can only twist and fold material so much. I think some great design planning can have a big influence on machine type availability also : )

So with that consider the tough nuts / material folding dilemmas at present and we look forward hearing in your future choices.

good day

Floyd

[CloudyCreek]

On 12/9/2016 at 11:34 AM, Constabulary said:

Cobra 18 for sure can do the job (up to approx 20oz leather in total)  but since you are in PA you may consider a dealer closer to you (may save shipping costs), I´d check with Keystone Sewing or Toledo Sewing Machine Co.  Both have a very good reputation here.

No one knows how your "stairs situation" is but a fully assembled machine is tough to get up or down stairs - you at least have to take off the head (easy to do). But when you consider shipping you may get the machine disassembled anyway. if you buy form a dealer close to you probably can pick it up by your self.

 

Thanks for the company links! I'll definitely check out shops closer to home. 

On 12/9/2016 at 0:26 PM, CowboyBob said:

The flatbed machines just sit in the table,so the best way to ever haul or move a machine is to take it out of the stand(Tilt it back undo the belt set it back down & it lifts out),then if you have a table w/a servo motor it only weighs around 110 Lbs & 2 people can handle it easy & the head ways around 70 Lbs.

Thanks for the input man. All things considered, I'm pretty sure I can get the machine down my stairs in two parts. Good news for me. 

[CloudyCreek]

On 12/9/2016 at 0:59 PM, brmax said:

It may be an option in using your existing Singer machine you mention, please lets us know the model and we can better help at this stage.

As mentioned there are several companies that help answer questions here for members and in turn some purchase from these. There are many machines used with everyone here that are very old and newly purchased from everywhere on the globe, so welcome to the site and beware its one of them old school sites, people help others

good day

Floyd

Yea it's not an old heavy duty machine. As others have mentioned, it's their line called Heavy Duty, which is not that heavy duty, compared. 

[CloudyCreek]

On 12/10/2016 at 8:09 AM, Darren Brosowski said:

If it is the Singer "Heavy Duty" that usually comes up then ANY industrial machine will be a ray of sunshine for CloudyCreek!

I have been working a lot recently with people making bags and most agree that they want, or should have bought, a cylinder bed machine. The CB227R/ Techsew 2700 or the CB341/Techsew 2750 are the machine of choice for these users

Yes I can only imagine how I'll feel when I have an industrial machine! I decided to learn and do as much as I could on my Heavy Duty. A machine with REAL power will be sooooo nice. 

I'm still on the fence about flatbed or cylinder. I know all the advantages of each. But I've been getting around not having a cylinder bed by how I design items. Decisions, decision. 

[CloudyCreek]

18 hours ago, brmax said:

It helps to have two people anyway ya look at it, moving a "machine head " or the stand itself into a new location, be residential or commercial.

These walking foot machines "industrial" 8hr days every day, several shifts, machines are tough and simply require some good help moving around.

The first things I do is fit wheels on stands for my particular setup, and each place and persons station is different, as should be. I cannot stress enough to a person interested in this to select a thread size or sizes very similar as this is going to be the best choice and most precise setup you can ask a professional to set up. There is simply no machine that can jump from hair thin thread to rope size threads without "proper adjustment" so I remind myself of this often.

It looks as though if bags are an item on the list, well the choice should lead towards the cylinder arm machine. Just because some of the tough ends or bottom sections to sew are really tough or impossible on a flat top, you can only twist and fold material so much. I think some great design planning can have a big influence on machine type availability also : )

So with that consider the tough nuts / material folding dilemmas at present and we look forward hearing in your future choices.

good day

Floyd

I've considered thread size. And I won't stray too much as I move from all leather projects to canvas/leather projects as I'm sewing thick/dense canvas as well. It can never be too strong, right?

 

And I've definitely pulled some hair out trying to work magic on bending and folding material on my flatbed. That's why I've been very critical of my designs so I can avoid that! BUT, having a cylinder bed will open up more design options for me. I wonder if it's tedious when sewing the bag's body on a cylinder bed with large pieces of material?

Thanks for the input Floyd.